DOO00K

Anyway, I'm about to get my hands on a R32 GTR and also plan to take it to the track for track days but not for any competative use, similar to the original post. I thought I would post up a stack of questions but the search functions have answered about 90% of all my questions so far. The R32 I'm about to get already has: Metal turbine blades instead of ceramic Nismo exhaust from the turbos Nismo fuel pressure regulator Nismo grounding kit Adjustable dampers Twin plate clutch 4 core aluminium radiator. The following things are the parts I want to install not just for performance but for reliability also: Torque Split Controller Boxed-in Ram Pod Aftermarket ECU Front & rear sway bars Oil cooler Baffled sump kit HICAS lock kit Camber pins Master cylinder brake bracket Braided brake lines Either DBA 5000's and track pads or CSC Caliper kit. Some questions: Do I need to consider a better fuel pump or is the standard one good enough? Is 16psi OK to run with this setup? Do you need to drop the gearbox to fit the baffled sump kit or is it actually easier than that? Are there benefits or pitfalls in replacing the engine driven radiator to a thermo electric fan? Any of these things a waste of time? Anything that I should consider that I haven't listed? My opinions on the discussion so far: I would go for locking the HICAS just to stop any of the unpredictability that so many experience. Didn't the Winfield Skylines lock theres? Being involved in other car clubs, I found the guys that run at 10/10ths going for sheep stations always had very different suspension set-ups for each track. In NSW Oran Park, Eastern Creek and Wakefield are such different tracks which resulted with different bump and rebound rates, different ride heights, different sway bar settings, and particularly different alignment settings. When the difference between 1st and 3rd was less than half a second in each category suspension was vital. Particularly in the completely standard class where alignment settings were the only thing you could change apart from the compulsory safety modifications. It's possible to generally set up a car to be good allround at any circuit but it won't be it's absolute best. Tracks change because there are so many variables. The last time it rained, how much rubber on the track, whether it's hot, cold, barometric pressure, etc. Depends what your chasing. To be the best or competing just for fun?

LO R33, the odometer shows 291,xxx but it's probably the only moveable part that has not been replaced in its life. GTST, thanks for the vote of confidence but we all know who does the sucking around here. It compliments your begging perfectly!

Pics sent to those that have requested. Thanks for your kind words leethal, the car has served me well. Many people are surprised at how much of the symmetrical understeer has been dialled out with the suspension mods and how hard it can go.

THIS CAR IS NOW SOLD! This is a real sleeper. It’s a good starting point for someone wanting a cheap yet competitive car to get into club/state level motorsport either as a street/competition compromise or as a base for a purpose-built supersprint, rally, hillclimb or whatever car. It has been modified purely for performance and not for show. It has not been modified for a peak kilowatt rating but for a meaty useable torque curve. Attention has been given to responsiveness, handling and braking for a complete package. Good for consistent 1.10's at Wakefield. This car has been well maintained by NRG and by MRT. Bushes, bearings, CVs, air flow meter, O2 sensor, accelerator cable, driver's seat sliders, and all the other items that become consumables over the lifetime of a car, have been replaced as soon as a problem has been noticed or as preventative maintenance. Details: * '92 RS Liberty sedan - charcoal grey * $12,000 Under the bonnet: * Liberty closed-deck block (NRG built) * Factory-supplied upgraded heads (no lifter noise) and WRX pistons * VF23 ball-bearing turbo * Injector refurb * Multi-point earthing * 4 Bosch coils plus spark plug leads (standard coil-on-plug design suffers from heat-induced breakdown) * 400 hp Walbro in-tank fuel pump * Unifilter Ram Pod air filter with custom made heat shield air box * Ducted cold air to filter box * Hi-tech exhaust with Michael South Racing splitter to speed spool-up and improve throttle response * RA extractors, match ported * MRT air intake pipe * Silicon turbo to I/C pipe * New accelerator cable * New timing belt and tensioner * New oil pump seal Engine management: * Standard Liberty chip with an Adrian Vos piggy-back - retains all standard features and is switchable between original chip and "hi-performance" * Close to a mid-90's Group-N map * ECU re-set switch * 17 psi boost limit (excellent compromise between power and engine life) * Dyno (C&V) 158 kW at the wheels (printout available) Drive train: * Lightened flywheel * Heavy duty clutch - not button - easy to use and can handle the power without putting undue stress on the gearbox * RA-spec gearbox ratios (tight and even) with 4:11 rear diff - makes it feel/drive like a version 6 STi (recent NRG gearbox rebuild) * Short shift gear-stick kit Suspension: * KYB adjustable dampers (front: 4-way adjustment, rear: 8-way) * King springs - almost new * Cusco front strut brace * Camber pins and modified bottom strut holes for more camber adjustment than you'll ever need * Adjustable strut tops (great castor!) * Whiteline front sway bar – 22mm * Whiteline rear sway - 22 mm adjustable * Whiteline heavy duty rear links * Whiteline anti-lift kit Rolling gear: * 17”x8" after-market wheels * 16”x7” WRX wheels * Falken Azenis Silent Sports ST115 (215/40/R17) 20% remaining * Kumho Ecsta V700 (225/45/17) 60% remaining * GT Radial Champiro (205/55/16) 90% remaining Brakes: * STi 4-spot callipers on front, standard Liberty callipers on rear * DBA slotted rotors - front and rear * RB74 front pads * Race Brakes "sport" pads in rear * Braided brake hose lines * Master cylinder brake support bracket Interior: * RA-spec front seats – from a STi * New MOMO steering wheel on original boss * Aftermarket sport pedals * Re-skinned dash - recent * In-dash boost gauge * Bicycle-style trip computer * Sony 6 speaker CD system with graphic equaliser (after-market) * Tinted windows Electrics: * Cruise control, A/C, power mirrors, ABS, etc. * No ignition switch - smashed out by a thief who couldn't beat the other security devices * CAMS-approved battery isolator switch * Push-button starter * New heavy duty battery * Additional security bits - but I'll only tell the new owner Further information/history: An Australian delivered RS from new. Original manual and service history available. I bought this car originally in 1994 as the second owner with the new car warranty still remaining. During this time I made some minor modifications that included exhaust, air intake, suspension, and stereo. After a few years ownership I sold it to John D who performed the vast majority of the modifications listed above during his ownership. Both John and I belonged to the same car club so the development of the car was well known. Earlier this year John offered it for sale and I snapped it up because I knew how well both John and the previous owner had looked after it. The car has never been resprayed or had any accident repair whatsoever, therefore it has the original paintwork from the factory. This includes some minor bumps and bruises that a car may typically experience over time. However, the car is straight and extremely clean. Reason for sale: With a new employment position I have an opportunity to upgrade to a car that I've wanted since I originally bought the Liberty. A R32 Skyline GTR. For further info or an inspection PM me or contact me on 0422-646-624. The car is located in Sydney and has 12 months rego if required. NSW rego: DOO.00K Yuri.