RB20_ZED

Offers?

FOR SALE: 1988 200ZR Fairlady (Final Edition) - I am very happy to have inspections so call me to arrange on 0411 235 832 if you are interested. I most likely won't be able to answer during work hours so leave me your contact details and a preferred time and I'll get back to you (or just PM me). Car is located near Baulkham Hills in north-west Sydney. These cars are rare and highly sort after in Japan as a classic sports car and it is nearly impossible to find another one in Australia - especially a manual. Everyone loves to stare at this car and most have no clue what it is. They are basically the body of the Z31 Californian 300ZX with the engine and driveline of an RB20DET skyline. This almost bullet-proof engine can push out a LOT of power. I recently had it tuned and dyno’d with a proven 191kw AT THE WHEELS. • Registered until 27th October 2007 • Imported by Edward Lee's Imports and first registered by myself in October 2005 • Engineers certificate and compliance plate • Used as a weekend car so not many km’s driven since first registered in Oz • Always used Mobile 1 oil and changed with filter every 6000km • Always used 98 RON fuel • I love this car so I never flogged it and always checked/replaced gear oils and other fluids etc regularly • Targa top great for summer • Air Con • Power steering, mirrors and windows • Central locking, alarm and keyless entry • Very regretful sale ENGINE BAY • RB20DET making 191kw at the wheels (see dyno sheet) • HKS GT2540 Turbo (genuine) - Rated to 350 Horsepower - Can’t buy these new for under $2,300 - Boost set to 14 psi / 1 bar • Turbosmart Boost Controller • HKS blow off valve and intake pipe - Can’t buy these new for under $300 • HKS oil cooler kit and oil filter relocator - Can’t buy these new for under $540 • Kakimoto Racing full turbo back 3 inch s/s exhaust with 5 inch cannon muffler - Can’t buy these new for under $1000 • 380cc injectors - FJ20 injectors - Rated to 350 Horsepower • HKS front mount intercooler kit (Z31) - Can’t buy these new for under $1,300 • Reconditioned Air Flow Meter 3 months ago - Cost $350 • Re-mapped and tuned ECU and rev limiter removed • HKS Fuel Cut Defender, tune & dyno at Unique Autosports 3 months ago - Cost $700 • Pod filter with custom heat shield • Fully reconditioned Brake Master Cylinder, brake bleed & high spec dot 4 brake fluid 1 month ago - Cost $400 • Custom stainless steel woven mesh & aluminium aerofoil air damn - Cost $300 • Bosch Gold Battery - Cost $120 • Twin thermo fans • Oil (Mobil 1), oil filter, gear oil, diff oil, thermostat, radiator cap and coolant changed less than 3000km ago SUSPENSION and HANDLING • Four new shock absorbers - Installed less than 10000km ago - Cost $500 • New front tie rods - Installed less than 10000km ago - Cost $300 • King springs - Installed less than 10000km ago - Cost $600 • Tanabe strut brace - Can't buy new for under $200 DRIVE LINE • Reconditioned R32 gtst gearbox (new bearings and replaced worn sychro’s) - Installed less than 10000km ago - Cost $900 • Twin Plate Brass Button Clutch with lightened flywheel - Big $ to buy new EXTERIOR • RS Watanabe 17 inch two piece rims - Highly sought after and can’t buy them for under $900 - second hand! • Will also include 4 original 16 inch Californian Fairlady Z rims in excellent condition with near new tyres. INTERIOR • Veilside sports steering wheel • Greddy Boost Gauge - Can't buy new for under $200 • JVC MP3/CD Player - Cost $250 • IMPUL Racing Pedals - Can't buy new for under $150 • RHINO alarm and immobiliser, central locking with additional kill switch - Cost $250 Why am I selling it? I love this car but I'm trying to save for an overseas trip around the world – and I’m not going to be able to take it with me. I work long hours and I have another car that I drive everyday so I never drove my 200ZR much anyway (would be lucky to do 150km a week). Known Problem: The speedo sensor cable needs to be replaced. - It stopped working a few months ago. - Can be bought new from Nissan for $119 (imported). Other than that, the car is in excellent condition – you won’t find another like it (if you can find one at all). It’s a rare, sporty, powerful car - but still easy to find body & mechanical parts for (always either a Skyline or 300ZX part). These cars can sell for $12000++ (if you can find another one) Even in Japan they still sell for more than newer Skylines and 300ZX’s. First to offer me $10000 will get this car, otherwise, nearest offer – Not desperate so will wait for the right buyer. All enquires welcome

As the title says - im removing/replacing my worn break master cylinder and just wondering if there are any tips out there?

Thanks for that - got a good insight into the issues. I've got it in at a shop getting tuned at the moment... seems like good news so far.

As it says - Has anyone put a SAFC (or similar) and a different AFM (R32/R33/Z32 etc etc) on an NICS RB20det??? Just need to know if it can be done? and if so, where did u get it tuned? (or who you might recommend) Thanks in advance!

Thanks everyone for your interest. Car has been listed on ebay - search for 200ZR (its the only one) Fatz: Nah i broke down in dural! must be another one out there having problems. Call or msg me if your interested. Thanks. 200zRRR: No problem. The response has been good so far so i doubt I will divide it up. Thanks. KummaZ: No books and yes im sure it does have some rust - its been sitting around for a couple of months and I didnt really drive it that much in the first place. Its old and in good condition BUT its not brand new. Body isnt perfect but mostly good. Thats mainly why i want ppl to look at it before offering me money or bidding on it. Dont want any unrealistic expectations. Call or email me if you have any other questions. Thanks.

Selling my baby - check it out: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=165752

FOR SALE: 1988 200ZR Fairlady (Final Edition) I am very happy to have inspections so call me to arrange on 0411235832 if you are interested or PM me. I most likely won't be able to answer during work hours so leave me your contact details and a preferred time and I'll get back to you. Car is located near Baulkham Hills in north-west Sydney. These cars are rare and highly sort after in Japan as a classic sports car and its is nearly impossible to find another one in Australia - especially a manual. Everyone loves to stare at this car and most have no clue what it is. They are basically the body of the Z31 Californian 300ZX with the engine and driveline of an RB20DET skyline. • Registered until 27th October 2007 (6 months rego) • Imported by Edward Lee's Imports and first registered by myself in October 2005 • Engineers certificate and compliance plate • Used as a weekend car so not many km’s driven since first registered in Oz • Always used Mobile 1 oil and changed with filter every 6000km • 125 090 km • Always used 98 RON fuel • I love this car so I never flogged it and always checked/replaced gear oils and other fluids etc regularly • Targa top great for summer • Air Con • Power steering, mirrors and windows • Central locking, alarm and keyless entry • Very regretful sale ENGINE BAY • RB20DET making approximately 200kw at the wheels • HKS GT2540 Turbo (genuine) - Rated to 350 Horsepower - Can’t buy these new for under $2,300 - Max boost set to 16 psi / 1.1 bar • Blitz Electronic Twin Solenoid Boost Controller - Rated to 2.5 bar - Can’t buy these new for under $400 • HKS blow off valve and intake pipe - Can’t buy these new for under $300 • HKS oil cooler kit and oil filter relocator - Can’t buy these new for under $540 • Kakimoto Racing full turbo back 3 inch s/s exhaust with 5 inch cannon muffler - Can’t buy these new for under $1000 • 380cc injectors - FJ20 injectors - Rated to 350 Horsepower • HKS front mount intercooler kit (Z31) - Can’t buy these new for under $1,300 • Re-mapped and tuned ECU and rev limiter removed • Pod filter with custom heat shield • Bosch Gold Battery - Cost $120 • Twin thermo fans • Oil (Mobil 1), oil filter, gear oil, diff oil, thermostat, radiator cap and coolant changed less than 3000km ago SUSPENSION and HANDLING • Four new shock absorbers - Installed less than 10000km ago - Cost $500 • New front tie rods - Installed less than 10000km ago - Cost $300 • King springs - Installed less than 10000km ago - Cost $600 • Tanabe strut brace - Can't buy new for under $200 DRIVE LINE • Reconditioned R32 gtst gearbox (new bearings and replaced worn sychro’s) - Installed less than 10000km ago - Cost $900 • Twin Plate Brass Button Clutch with lightened flywheel - Big $ to buy new EXTERIOR • RS Watanabe 17 inch two piece rims - Highly sought after and can’t buy them for under $900 - second hand! INTERIOR • Veilside sports steering wheel • Greddy Boost Gauge - Can't buy new for under $200 • JVC MP3/CD Player - Cost $250 • IMPUL Racing Pedals - Can't buy new for under $150 • RHINO alarm and immobiliser, central locking with additional kill switch - Cost $250 Why am I selling it? I love this car but I work long hours and I'm trying to save for an overseas holiday - so I never drove it much anyway (weekends and nights) but I don’t have the time or money to try and fix the problem it has. The problem is that it is running very rich. - It needs to be fixed before it can be driven properly – I've had the crank angle sensor and ignitor professional tested by AFI but these are all working properly. I've also swapped the AFM but this didn't fix the problem. - This would suit someone who is mechanically/electrically minded or familiar with RB engines etc. - Problem happened 6 weeks ago out of the blue and I have not driven the car since then. - The car starts but runs so rich that it is very hard to drive. ALSO if the car is left to run for a while, the spark plugs foul (from too much fuel) and need to be cleaned before it will start again. I've had to do this several times. - I don't want to spend any more time or money trying to fix it when I was planning on selling it anyway to go travelling. ALSO: The speedo sensor cable needs to be replaced. - It stopped working in February and I haven't had a chance to replace it yet. - Can be bought new from Nissan for $119. These cars sell for $10000++ (if you can find another one) so if you are mechanically minded then get yourself a bargain. Asking for $4000 but I will consider ALL offers!!

I got the same problem - its gotta be the ecu or afm - both of which are hard to find for the red tops. Good luck (lemme know if u figure it out).

Update: Took the AFM off and did the re-solder job as well as cleaning it out with electronic cleaner again. To be honest the solder looked fine but still thought id do it... There was no change. Car still runs super rich and is undriveable. Maybe the AFM circuitry is fried but cant get hold of another to test this theory (its the red top AFM - different to the silvertop)... Thanks for your help again guys... and if anyone else has any suggestions (or knows where i can buy a AFM for a red top rb20) - lemme know! I spose theres a chance the AFM is fine and ECU mite be fried instead...?

thanks heaps for your help guys. WazR32GTSt: I checked the intercooler piping and took the joints apart and connected them all real tight and no change. The injectors do work - the mechanic was just dumb - the sparkies just get fouled real quick. Had to clean the black off the spark plugs again today so that it would at least start. cheez: I can get it to rev over 3000rpm so does that rule out the afm issue? it doesnt rev nicely... but i can still get it over 3000 (smokes out the neighbourhood tho!) Im starting to think its the ECU...

Thanks for your help guys. Nah mate - its running super rich which fouled the spark plugs... cleaned them and its definately getting spark (and power to the injectors) - i think the mechanic was stupid/didnt know what he was checking. Yeh i thought that but ive checked it and cleaned it with electronic cleaner and still the same - and all the little wires seem intact with the afm... guess it could be screwed- how could i diagnoise a faulty AFM besides swapping it? Could a faulty O2 sensor cause this kind of rediculous over-fueling? ive been reading a ton of posts and hearing a lot about ecu's in limp mode but cant seem to find an explanation of what that means...??? its so rich that its un-driveable... idles irratically at around 400 or so and the engine stalls very easily... revvs like a pig and blows plenty of smoke... way too rich. Any more suggestions would be very much appreciated.

update: The reason there was no spark was bcoz the spark plugs were fouled... cleaned them and the car now stumbles and hesitates like before... WHat could be causing it to run SO rich???

A few days ago i took off from a set of lights pretty hard, spun the wheels a bit and all of a sudden the car spluttered, hesitated and nearly stalled when i took it out of gear.... but i got it home and took it to the mechanic who did some tests and said its running super rich and missing etc. He looked around and eventually called me and said it was the cold air idle valve (he unplugged it and suddenly the car ran perfect)... which made sense coz its been running badly when cold for a long time. When i came to have a look, he tried to start the car and it wouldnt start at all... so he kept it and said that there was no spark and no power to the injectors... So we get the ignitor and CAS checked and they are both working fine... and after putting them both back on he now said that there is "a little bit of power" going to the spark plugs and said he is going to pull them out and have a look... im starting to get the shits with the way things are going and wanna know if anyone has any ideas or suggestions as to what the prob may be??? (Its an RB20det)

Do standard rubber brake lines come in a general length that you cut to size (like vacuum hose)? Or are they made to a specific length meaning that you have to order them specific for a make/model car? Thanks.

Hey ive had a faulty temp sensor to the ecu for a few months and finally bought a new one - car ran beautifully when i first installed it but now it seems to be having a the same problem (hesitates and backfires when cold). I thought the new sensor had stuffed up... BUT if i unplug-replug the sensor before starting the car it seems to work fine... runs beautiful. its as if the sensor needs to be reset or something... any ideas what this may be? a voltage problem from the ecu? faulty sensor getting stuck? im really stumped but if there are no ideas im gonna have to rig up a switch to it.

excellent thanks!

what do u mean??

Okay looked at the various backfiring threads but not much relevant info for this... When the engine is cold (first start of the day), the car backfires and hesitates on acceleration... happens until temp hits about 1/8th... after that it drives perfectly... THEN on really hot days such as today, after driving/sitting in traffic for around an hour or so (i.e. underbonnet temps hot) - the car backfires on deceleration... the actual temp needle never goes above half though. is there some temp sensor thats supposed to change the fuel mixture according to temp??? Or maybe the coil packs? im really stumped. btw its an RB20det

thanks guys

When u set ur air con/heating/blower to external air, where is the air being sucked from? Is it the grill where the windscreen wipers are? or from a fender?

you had an rb20det box in there?!?! man u can half ur torque and still kill an rb20 box. im guessing an rb25det box will do but u may even need to toughen that up.

boost oil pressure oil temp

ive got twin thermos never had a problem - last summer i was stuck in traffic plenty of times in 40 degree heat and never had an overheating issue - with and without air con on. i would recommend it.

could be a twin or triple plate clutch - the ringing is normal - i have a twin plate and it makes a high pitched metal ringing noise whenever the clutch pedal is depressed.