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About oxford1327

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    powered by bananas
  • Birthday 11/20/1973

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    ballarat, victoria

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  • Car(s)
    S2 RS4, suzuki VJ23A 2 smoker
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  1. Just called trans service and they've said box is currently out of the car being diagnosed and do far has shown signs of bands slipping, and potential clutch pack wear, so they're being replaced asap and uprated flex plate being installed as well when it goes back in
  2. Generally only flares between 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd when under light load and cold, once it's warmed up and sink the hoof into it it shifts as it should, it's like it can decide to shift and is holding out for more throttle, the 3rd to 4th in either direction once warm and under light throttle cannot decide if it wants to shift or just coast with the convertor unlocked, well that is how it sounds and feels to me
  3. And as a side note, yes the entire set of solenoids have been replaced with brand new units about 15000klms ago which was about 2000klms after the shift kit was installed as it was recommended by MV automatics as well as my local trans builder/service provider to do the solenoids as well just because they're 20+ yrs old
  4. As stated I have had a manualised trans before and it was fine when under heavy acceleration, however it was only a 2 speed, hence I asked how much of a Pita is it gonna be with a 4 speed around town, and shifting gears/"stirring levers" isn't the issue. With reference to the ECU fluffing around, it is flaring on up shift between 2nd+3rd when cold, then sometimes between 3rd 4th in both directions when at running temp as the Trans Control Unit isn't accurately communicating with the ECU and it doesn't seem to know whether to keep the converter locked up or release etc
  5. Hello all, I am seeking information on real life experiences of having a manual valve body in a series 2 stagea, as in how harsh are the changes when just tootling around town etc. I've had a manualised auto before but it was in a Torana hatch with a 350 chev and power glide, so it be vastly different being a 4 speed. I already have a stage 2 shift kit installed from MV Automatics and am currently sitting at 295awkw and the new ecu is having an occasional fluff around, so have been contemplating the manual valve body. Look forward to the potential flame show coming my way. Cheers
  6. Series 1 is a RE401A with 3 solenoids as far as I'm aware, series 2 is RE401B and has 4 solenoids due to it having tiptronic
  7. None of them really do cater for auto transmission specifically, but Haltech and Link have add ons in development that can be tweaked apparently, so I'm currently diving down that rabbit hole and chasing up more info. At this stage its looking like Link are further along and also has the tuners nod of approval for certain elements, so I reckon that will be where we end up, as for which model Link I dunno yet, there will be some numbers crunched and details sorted over before the booking date in march '21
  8. I'll look into that, cheers man. My old chev powered LX Torana hatch had manualised power glide and she was a bit of a pig down low but great fun under load, so definitely know of the up/downsides of manual valve body...
  9. But is it really that easy?? Surely not hahahaha, nothing else ever is...
  10. RS4 auto AWD doesn't have traction control unit though
  11. Because it is a tiptronic box I think is what the problem is with the ECU control, but I honestly don't know. So I am unaware why it doesn't cover auto vs manual with say a haltech etc, but they all say manual trans only
  12. has anybody heard anymore about whether Haltech have done any more development on their ECU for auto Stags? there was rumours it was in final stages of development and was almost market ready, but then the trail has gone dead as a maggot...... so now I am looking at possibly having to go Link ECU as the nistune has seemingly ran out of range and wont stop knocking above 16psi on 98octane, timing is having to be hella retarded to make it safe, and without need of putting in a second flex sensor so can run a guage for ethanol content so i can know when to jam more boost in safely its been recommended to go to a stand alone ECU for engine protection etc, and leave the std ecu do the basics. now before I get hounded down I just wanna say I'm only going off what has been suggested by the tuners, so I thought that should maybe consult the brains trust and filter through the no doubt multiple and often loud opinions that will be put forward. I welcome this debate of benefits and detractions of each system/provider, and hope that it may come to a general consensus of a reliable ECU that can deliver engine protections as well as ease of tuning while retaining the creature comforts and driveability of the standard ecu features. as a side note here's a list of the current mods to the engine/trans etc. as I can already hear the questions regarding what has it got blah blah blah... RB25det NEO with forged Wiseco piston lower , arp head studs ,standard cams, apparently flowed head with std sized valves, everything else head wise is stock as far as am aware, audi R8 coils,R35 MAF sensor in 4inch sensor tube, 4inch steel inlet pipe, hypergear atr43ss2 turbo (supposedly same as garret 3076) internally gated, GFB twin port atmo BOV, GFB G-force 2 boost controller, 3inch exhaust front to rear with 100cell cat and magnaflow muffler 3inch in 2x2.5 inch outlets, ecu has Nistune 5 board and software updated feb 2020, flex fuel sensor and fuel-lab adjustable reg, deutschwerks in tank 480 pump, 725cc bosch injectors on std fuel rail, 10mm plenum spacer, water to air intercooler rated to 750hp running glycol alcohol mix in its own separate radiator, auto is stage 2 shift kitted from MV Automatics with standard stall converter. I think that about covers it.
  13. All reassembled and airbox partition modified to suit and refitted, kinda sneakily looks like it's factory, the satin black hides its dimensions I reckon, now the wait for 2 weeks till tuning day😔
  14. Finished product installed and ready to organise new tune
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