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I'm not sure if this the correct place to post this, or if it has already been posted, I have has an email from JPNZ, see below, share it around! Hello We are happy to offer the transfer of Japanese to English software used to run the AV system in your vehicle to our customers in New Zealand and will be covering more models this year. The software we offer can transfer your current operating software to English so you can operate everything on screen in English. We can offer this for NZ $348.50. We cannot offer NZ maps for the GPS system at this stage but we may be able to in the near future depending on numbers of interested people. If you are interested in having your AV system changed to operate in English please confirm by email and also indicate which part of NZ you are situated. Thank you, we look forward to optimising your AV system to operate in English. Regards Michael McCarthy (Director) 52 ~54 Portage Rd New Lynn, Auckland, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 8250773, Fax: +64 9 825 0774 Mobile: 021829531 Postal address: P.O. Box 20-002 Glen Eden Auckland, New Zealand [email protected]

in NZ on Trademe http://www.trademe.co.nz/MyTradeMe/Sell/Current.aspx?source=sidebar

Just corrosponding with these guys, trying to figure out if this will work for PM35 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=533190114

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Things to consider, - How old is the car i.e. kms, the radiator could be blocked, they require the tanks taken off and rodded to clean properly. - Do you know if it has been regualrly serviced, for fluids etc, lack of anti corrosive eats the aluminium core, inclding the heater core. I would not change the standard fan, I have been building and racing drift cars since ages ago and they work the best especially with the standard fan shroud.

I luvit, M/V Skylines are pretty ugly these days

could be a fuse as typically thieves will short out your indicators to disarm the alarm systems

do you have a link to the page, thanks

OK I've been wondering why my radar detector has been going of randomly since owning my PM35. I went for a 400km drive yesterday and discovered when I go to overtake or push over half throttle my radar detector goes off with a "Radar Warning" the K Band warning still works as there were a couple of cops on the way, so I was playing around with throttle as I was driving along and every time I push over haf it sets of the detector, I'm thinking there is RF coming from my throttle body and getting picked up by the detector. I think this should not be happening as all electronics must meet standards for RF interference. Maybe I have a break down in the insulation some where but I can't see anything loose or cut/worn. Anyone had this or can see corelation between these units. Radar detector is Beltronics multi band,

Stage a

That's an iunisual place for an oli leak, the cooler is a bolt on arrangement and unles you have removed it there sholud be no problem, how much oil are you loosing it might be coming from above, cam covers are prone to coming loose, try tightening the covers maybe.

Use it nothing wrong with 3540 on a 25 with the right supporting mods, injectors, aftermarket ECU, exhaust etc good for 265rwkw. run on E85 and 1 bar 350+rwkw. It's a real hassel to mount on low manifold. We've been running a few 3540's on RB's for ages, we use .86 housing on top mount manifold with FFP, gate to atmos, 3." exhaust, flip the intercooler upsidedown and the piping is a total of <1m. lag is adjusted via clutch pedal. 25, 26 & 30's.

Nothing really, 20's won't plug up different connector, 25DE/T very much the same, I use the pink or red aftermarket ones on our 25's, as long as they are new is the key,

you could undo the heater hoses on the engine side of the firewall and loop them together, see if you have any leaks after that?

I have just replaced the heater core in a C34,with one from an R33, the existing core was maked as Laurel. The core had a hole in it I think due to no green stuff in the water. It was leaking into the drivers footwell through the ducting, with less water in the passenger footwell. As it was the first time I have had to do this, I removed the entire dash pad, centre console, loosened the steering column and everthing to get to it, after doing it I think I would be able remove the core without taking the entire dash out. The hassel was removing the passenger air bag to get at the fan out of the way to access the core. It is a mission even for me who takes cars to bits on a regular basis. There three units that make up the heater setup, Ducting director, fan assembly and heater core assembly. Took a day to get out, replace and back in.