J_Red33

Well this is turning very one sided fast Very interesting, car is a 95 model Mazda Astina V6 I doubt a Hall bar would be any different on my car other than a label being only rated to 700kg. If you can find one for a '95 Mazda Astina Hatch I'll buy it, but I've never seen one yet. Looking like Allin is going to be the go so far. Thanks for your input guys

Hi all, Been a while since I've been on here, my 33 has been lying dormant for quite some time. However I am finally taking some steps towards getting it back on the road, recently bought a house & now have to sort out a garage so I can bring it home & start work on it. One thing I need now in preparation for my new cave is a towbar on my daily. I am mainly debating between either a Allin or Hall towbars, but haven't been able to find very much information on personal opinions/experiences of the 2. I have been quoted about $50 less for the Allin than the Hall, but not sure if the Hall is worth the extra for any reason. All input would be appreciated. Cheers Jared

Thanks for that, pretty good recommendation right there. Anyone got a recommendation as far as the painting is concerned?

Hi guys, Thought I'd start this thread back up, rather than creating a new one. I have been looking through previous recommendations for dent/paint repairers & am looking for some opinions. I need a dent repaired on a front fender of my daily thanks to some careless 4WD type that decided it would be ok to shove their door into it. Trouble is, they also took some of the clear off in the process, so ideally I'd get one person out to do the whole job. I don't however want some half assed repair job. Color Touch Systems & SMART Paintworx, are the only companies I know of that do both jobs. Has anyone had any experience with either of these compainies? Other choices for dent removals are, Dents Away & Dent Masters I've also seen something of son of rajab of the Dings, but he doesn't look like a mobile service. For paint repairs I've found BAC2NU, Adelaide Topline Touch Ups, Superfinish Express, & Up To Scratch. If anyone could make some recommendations for or against these (or others), it would be greatly appreciated. Regards Jared

Hey as per my email: Hi there, Yeah it was a long time ago. I had to remind myself what thread you were on about. Luckily for you I know just what you're looking for. The earth for all the fuel pump wiring is an eyelet that has 4 black wires going to it, 2 are for the pump. This is located on the panels behind the back seat towards the right hand side. The seat is a bit of a bugger to get out if you haven't already, though I assume you have if you know where the control module is. Seems a little odd that it will run for a while & then die. Just looking at the circuit diagram though earth is via the ballast resistor & the control module. So the only way the pump is going to have a full earth is with the control module active while the engine is running. Or you could do what I did & bridge the pins on the connector. If you're just checking with a meter, measure resistance, not continuity as that only measures a few ohms. Possibly the trap that the stupid sparky fell for (there's a lot of them that don't know much). Let me know how you go. Hope that helps Just to add to this if you look at my first photo from my old post the earth wires are on the eyelet bolted just under the white box in the centre of the picture. You can see they come off the main loom.

If you don't get it back within the first couple days your chances fade considerably let alone after 2 weeks. You wouldn't want it back now anyway.

Yep that was the problem alright. Cylinder 3 was the problem, runs great with your set in it :-). So looks like I'll be buying a set of split fires

I have to second this one, having had my line broken into & theft attempted I know it shouldn't be that easy. Still I'm upping my security further to make it very hard to steal. A good steering lock by itself is usually better protection than an alarm. Everyone should have one.

I only really need them for an hour tops if I bring my line to you & put them in on the spot. Will be pretty obvious if they are the cause. Yours is a series 2 I take it? Just checking Would be greatly appreciated.

Hi guys, been a while since I've been on here again, but back again I am. Had to spend a bit of time on my daily as I upgraded & it's been giving me trouble & now I've gone to start work on the line again it's playing up. I believe I have a faulty coil pack, so anyone that has a spare working set for an R33 S2 that could lend them to me for diagnosis would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Jared

I'd be interested in a full set if you do them again.

Wow, that's a s@#t load faster than last time. Top job mate

Payment & details sent

List is growing fast, I'm in too. R33 GTS-T series 2 Thanks Phil

Thanks for the tutorial. I'm yet to actually fit mine yet, but I have a couple of suggestions when doing this from having previously removed my calipers. Rather than just undoing a line & having brake fluid spew out everywhere, I'd suggest draining each corner from the calipers bleed nipple first into a bucket with some clear tubing to prevent this. I'd then undo the brake line from the caliper end & point it into a bucket to drain any remaining fluid. Also have the reservoir cap removed when doing this. This should ensure a lot less mess & risk of corrosion/paint stripping. Also the best thing to help improve the firmness of the brakes isn't in fact the hoses. Get yourself a master cylinder stopper to prevent it flexing when you push the brake pedal. They flex a lot. Open your bonnet & watch the cylinder move as you press the brake pedal I fitted a Cusco brand stopper to my 33 & it was worth every cent, got to be careful with traffic following behind sometimes.... With the braided lines my brakes will be hard as a rock

Also got mine on Monday. The plastic package had popped open, though I think that may have been because the postie shoved it in my letter box, I never signed for it either.... All looked to be intact & undamaged so all good. Thanks again for the mamouth effort you put into this. Looking forward to getting these on my line.

Top marks for seeing this one through mate. Never thought it was going to be anywhere near this level of BS, but you got there. Looking forward to receiving these

Funnily enough the one of only 2 times I got something online screwed up it was from the Poms. Good thing I used Paypal or they were going to screw me. In the end I got what they sent me for free so they screwed themselves

^^^ Think you may have missed the boat now. Doubt PM-33's going to do this again after all the BS he's gone through. Good that they're finally on their way, still working on my line atm anyway, but getting closer to being ready to install these suckers.

Just thought I'd add something to this thread, I have now installed a set of genuine Bilstein dust boots. I bought the shocks from one company, but they couldn't supply the dust boots, which I thought was a bit strange. I later found out when I went to a workshop here in Adelaide called Manta Racing that only official suppliers of Bilstein shocks can supply the dust covers. The boots I was supplied did require minor modification to fit over the original bump stops (they initially caused the bump stop to pop off of the support washer so I chopped the top of them off), but they are made out of a very tough compound that I doubt will fall appart like the originals. As far as replacement bump stops go, I only found superpro's for the rear could be used & that dust cover they have is useless/too small so you'd ditch that bit of them. I just ended up just trimming back the original cover/bumpstop assembly so I could fit the new ones over the top & am satisfied with the result.

I think it's about time a thread was started about, what to do if you are even THINKING about buying a Skyline, or any car for that matter. Insurance should be priority one when buying a car & be soughted out before purchasing/driving away in the vehicle. If you can't afford/don't have insurance ready, then why even bother looking at the car.

This kind of shit happens all the time in a big company. I should know I work for one! If I was in charge I'd have fired half the staff by now, because all they do it make things more expensive & difficult. Don't beat yourself up about it mate, you've made a substantial effort not only to get this done asap, but also keep everyone in the loop with what's happening. As long as you do that you've done everything you can. At least you know who to call next time if there is a stuff up. Speaking only for myself, no big deal on the wait. I have pleanty of other stuff to fit to my line atm.

You got of lightly mate, I've spent thousands fixing damage that other c*#t's have done to my car.

Personally I saved about $4k by heading to Sydney when I got my ride & ended up with a better car than any I'd seen here at the time. The only yard at the time that had what I was interested in wouldn't even let me take it for a drive without putting money down, so I got jack of that & hopped on a plane. Synergy was probably the best locally, even brought a car down to my work for me to look check out & take for a spin, but wasn't quite what I was after. They have a much better selection now days though.

Pete, I remember going on a cruise a few years ago with you following me at 1 stage & it sure as hell looked like a lot of fun was happening in my mirror! Judging by the way people are talking on here I think it should go for a deacent price (ie $15k+) considering the amount of work that has gone into getting it where it is. It may not be original but it's sure as hell is unique, & that counts for a lot! I'd be considering it too if I had the money & the garage space....