DennisRB30

Yeah but isn't there some sort of fuel cut built into the ECU that prevents too much boost being run? I would expect that value to be reached before the absolute output limit of the AFM. For example the JZ MAP sensor reads up to 5V, but the ECU hits fuel cut at 4.3V.

Thanks. 5.1 is the max resolution of the AFM isn't it? What is the max voltage the ECU sees before it hits the fuel cut? Sorry for the confusion.

What is the max AFM voltage the RB20-25DET stock ECU will allow before the fuel cut is initiated, and is this value dependent on RPM as well? Thanks.

WTB 16x7 or wider wheels 4 stud. QLD

Hey mate what happened to you? We arranged a time for me to get the brakes from your house, and you weren't there when you said you would be, and you seem to have vanished of the face of the earth! You phone number isn't working either. I hope you are OK! If you don't want to sell the brakes anymore just let me know.

Hey mate, you still got the brakes? I am keen for the front calipers and rotors. I assume they are twin piston and 4 stud?

Sucks about the pics. Oh well, here is a vid of it on the dyno.

I went to the Supra club dyno day and only came second to a GT42 powered Supra and beat some big dollar manual cars with bigger turbos cams and forged internals!!!! And my setup is as dodgy and ebayed up as they come! 476.3 rwhp 355 rwkw. This really exceeded my expectations. The winner with 670 odd hp had dynoed @ 750odd previously.

Yeah its obvious the best looking skyline is a Oz spec two tone 4 door GXE with rust and dents. PIC

Just dug this thread up. I didn't expect to actually find any more decent info, just more bullshit! Thanks Daniel for providing the figures. Very interesting.

Car now runs a GT35 and does 12.1 @ 124mph. Reason for the crap ET is the stock torque converter and subsequent 2.35 second 60 foot time. I will be chasing 10's soon with a bigger converter as it now has the balls for a 10 second pass as the 124mph trap speed suggests. Pic

Nice.

What does a decent auto R32 go for these days? And what are the tallest diff gears you can find cheaply?

Nor am I. Just wanted to go fast for cheap and be a bit different:) Seemed like a good way of doing it. Might upgrade to a R32 and whack my driveline in that

The performance VS price says it all

The white and grey 2 tone stock looking R31 with a 2JZ and GT35 in it

Nice. I didn't even realise there was a SAU club day on and saw all you guys out there. I ran 12.1 @ 124mph. I wasn't trying for ET, just wanted to see what sort of MPH I could run as I know a good ET was never going to happen with a stock stall converter and large turbo. Just need to get rid of that stock stall converter, fit a less restrictive exhaust and aim for low 11's - high 10's.

I got a cheap ebay turbo on my car. Its a genuine GT35R from a XR6 turbo. Keep your eye out as these seem to go for around the 1K mark on a regular basis.

Yeah stock ATM, but to be upgraded very soon. In fact I am doing mine Today BTW its only 7psi more than standard. In relevance to the increase in fuel pressure on the Aristo, this statement is wrong on so many levels. Firstly, when the prob occurred we didn't change the reg, we changed the PUMP. Secondly, all pressure references we made are to atmospheric. So if its rising rate it wouldn't matter. Thirdly the Sard reg is a 1:1 reg anyway and it DID alter fuel pressure with the bigger pump. Fourthly, or course if you change the reg the fuel pressure will change, its not like they automatically come set to exactly what ever fuel pressure you were running previously! As you say the pressure shouldn't change. But it if does something is not right! Seems pretty obvious that the Sard reg is too small and can't flow enough fuel to keep pressure down with a 044 pump. This shouldn't be surprising since the Sard FPR is rated at like 250 horsepower less than the 044 pump! Thats probably why they make the bigger one. Guilt toy, what happend with the Malpassi, are you sure it was at fault? No thanks for the offer on the Sard. It will be too small since I already have over 450hp. Bob, I didn't stuff the readings up. Its pretty hard to stuff it up.

There was nothing wrong with the old fuel pump. We were running 0.9 bar with a T04Z on a 2JZ with 11.8 AFR's at 50psi base pressure, you can't ask for more out of a stock pump! But we changed it to an 044 so we could wind the boost up to be safe. So I would say that changing the pump DOES increase fuel pressure if the FPR is being overwhelmed with fuel flow. That is my theory. It leads me to believe that the 450hp Sard is too small to regulate pressure effectively with a 044 pump.

I finally figured the Sard FPR's out. http://www.upgrademotoring.com/performance/sard_reg.htm The Ebay ones appear to be the 450hp ones. The bigger one costs a lot more. So what would happen with a 450 one? My guess is that if you use more than 450hp worth of fuel the pressure starts to drop since it can't handle such a large variation in flow. My mate with the Aristo with the Sard changed from a stock fuel pump to a 044 and base pressure shot up by like 20psi. Some people might say, well DUH there is more fuel flow. But to me that is a sign off poor regulation with varying fuel flow. What happens when the engine is using most of the fuel flow from the pump at high load? My guess is the pressure will drop. If pressure goes up by 20psi with more X amount fuel flow, its going to go down by like 20psi when the engine uses X amount of fuel flow up. Does that make sense? His sard does seem to be stable though. Its always the same when you check it unlike the malshitty.

f**k this. I have been hearing this all to often. It scared the shit out of me when I saw it was running 25psi less than what I set it to. Will a this Sard be OK? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SARD-Fuel-Pressure-...1QQcmdZViewItem I have heard from someone that they are not the all that good either. But my mate has one on his Aristo with a 044 fuel pump and it seems to be OK. It says its rated for max 450 HP? I will be running a lot more than that. Does anyone else use a Sard with 500+ RWHP?

What do you mean exactly by "fails". Failure can be relative.

That is what I have been hearing. What actual experience do you have with them? I would like to here some first hand info as opposed to regurgitated hearsay.

Its a black top 1.7:1. It is installed on my strut tower away from heat and vibration. I can't see how my installation could be causing the probs. Its fairly straight forward to install. I also have a intank 044 with the valve removed. I have noticed my gauge reads 5 psi with the pump off, which is wrong as it should read zero with no valve in the system. I always set the base pressure in reference to atmospheric pressure, IE with the vacuum line off (so the lines are not a factor, plus they are all OK anyway). So 50psi is only a bit above standard. At idle its 25psi.