Paul T

RB 28 with GTX3584RS used as Track car HKS step 2 2.8 full counter rank rods and pistons HKS 272 exhaust cam HKS VCAM Pro with 10.2 lift Ported head - ferrera valves etc Peterson dry sump running vacuum N1 block Nismo Plenum Modified ITB's 6 Boost stainless steel Promod manifold (Small runner) GTX3584RS 1.21 rear housing E85 Runing through Sachs carbon carbon clutch and flywheel (3kg)- Albins straight cut transmission and Nismo diff stopped at 26 PSI 562 RWKW was 420 KW at 13psi 705 ftlb torque. Have posted so anyone thinking of using this turbo can see the results. Probably a better choice would be the precision PT6870 or 6875 with a large runner manifold

Just finished an Albins install in a R32 GTR Lots of work needs to be done in the tunnel, plus remote mounting the oil filter, shifter etc. It is for a track only car. The holinger is lighter and an easier fitment but the downside is that they have helical cut gears, no oil pump system and the sequential system doesn't use a barrel for shifting

About the drysump, You ideally need a 4 stage with rear drive to run your PS pump. Two pickups on the left front of the sump, chanelled over to the RHS to allow for crank rotation.(better in the front as braking generates more G force than acceleration) One pickup in the back of the head to remove oil from the cam area. you can choose to run under vacuum, or use a tank return system as shown on my other pic, but the design of the internal tank needs to include a seperator and a condensor. The other stage of the pump is for pick up from the remote tank, which in my case is mounted inside the car. The engine block needs to be modified as well, you need to remove the internals of the standard oil pump, block off the pump outlet in the block. We have used two inlets into the main gallery so that each pressures half the oil gallery each. You also need to modify where the factory oil filter goes on. The pump will onl fit if you make a new custom LHS engine mount, but you would need to check this as my engine sits further back than stock.

Beer Baron, It currently has a T88H, but looking to change it. Pic attached

I had Jun supply the parts for my race engine, it has all of what is in yours plus a few more things (Bigvalves, block, Gt cooling, Head, etc), they recommended a modified N1 block (there is oiling problems on number 6) or GT block, and a harmonic damper if reving over 8,300 RPM What have you done to the block?, if it is stock it will crack on number 4 water gallery much over 600hp at the engine Also have you balanced your Jun crank? when ours was delivered we done a full rebalance on all the components and found the crank balance needed to be adjusted here is engine pic