Jump to content
SAU Community

blind_elk

Members
  • Content Count

    6,846
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Community Reputation

55 Excellent

About blind_elk

  • Rank
    No-eyed Deer
  • Birthday 05/06/1954

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Melbourne

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    R32 GTS25t-4, 1973 180B SSS
  • Real Name
    Greg

Recent Profile Visitors

9,228 profile views
  1. I'm no expert, but I know enough about the basics. The figure being displayed by the PFC is the number PROGRAMMED into it. It is not telling you what it is reading but rather what it is trying to achieve. So, the PFC gets a trigger at some point, say 60BTDC, and then calculates when the engine will be at the programmed point, say 23BTDC, when it should fire the spark. So if the PFC gets the trigger at the wrong time, the actual firing point will not match the programmed firing point. I run a Wolf unit on my RB25DET, and it has a function to adjust the trigger point so that what is programmed is what you see with a timing light. Check if the PFC has a similar function. (And be aware, some timing lights seem to show double the actual timing) Now more experienced people can take over diagnosing your problem.
  2. Its an aerofoil for your wiper. Holds the blade onto the glass at speed. (passenger doesn't need to see where you are going, so LHS doesn't have one!)
  3. Well, that will put the CAS waaaayyy out of position. To test for valve damage, do a compression test.
  4. Looks a bit like a compressor for air horns. Could be wrong (wouldn't be the first time!)
  5. Couple of thoughts: Adjustable sway bar links not even. Pre-load on front or rear sway bars. Rear shocks uneven, try swapping them L<>R.
  6. Are you sure the CAS went back in the right orientation. If the half-moon locator key in the ex cam breaks off, its possible to align the CAS incorrectly. If the CAS is even one tooth out, the engine won't start.
  7. By "dash switch", I'm guessing you're referring to the push-button, next to the round switch. It is for fog lights - in the absence of fog lights, it simply turns on park lights - has no effect on projector / main. Your left lights are working as designed, the problem with the right is, as GTSBoy suggested, a problem with the contacts in the rotary switch.
  8. Its only a problem if you change the ratio. Its possible to change the centre (to LSD) and still keep the same gearset, thus retaining the ratio.
  9. "New" or "another" ie second hand? (had a similar problem with my Pathfinder - got second hand starter, and it failed same way in four weeks!) Does it start easier once you get it started and the engine warms up? What is the battery voltage when the engine is running?
  10. When I had a similar problem, turned out the starter motor was rooted. (I think I threw out a perfectly battery pack because it couldn't assist in starting the engine)
  11. You need to get a NEW one. The igniters develop a habit of breaking down when they get hot, then work fine when they cool back down. Then again, 3500 "limit" is MAF problem, IIRC.
  12. Was it a new igniter, or second hand?
  13. AAC / IACV appear to be used interchangeably. According to my Workshop Manual, it is AAC, and the valve under the plenum is Air Regulator.
  14. Air Reg / AAC problems have to be unrelated. AAC is powered by the ECU relay, and the ECU switches to earth thru pin 4.
×
×
  • Create New...