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blind_elk

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About blind_elk

  • Rank
    No-eyed Deer
  • Birthday 05/06/1954

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Melbourne

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    R32 GTS25t-4, 1973 180B SSS
  • Real Name
    Greg

Recent Profile Visitors

9,405 profile views
  1. Driving home from Emerald to Tarneit yesterday, got to FTG, pulling up at a set of lights, and the clutch pedal in the 32 dropped to the floor. Worked out that the piston was falling out the back of the clutch slave cylinder. Surmise either the clutch pressure plate has collapsed, or the fork has collapsed. Anyway, having trouble finding a trailer to get the car home. If you can help at all, please sms me - 0421 331 954. If necessary, I can pay fuel costs, etc for your help. TIA.
  2. I think I have a problem with the ETS in my 89 R32 GTS4. The error appears to be temperature sensitive - the warning light only generally comes on after a while, comes on sooner on warm days. Anyone know a shop in the western suburbs (around Werribee) that knows these little buggers and how to diagnose / fix them? TIA
  3. IIRC, there is a little temp sensor that wraps around the heater pipe, up against the firewall (engine-side). That may be the one reporting as faulty.
  4. Sorry, but if you aren't doing any sort of motorsport, why on earth do you need 450hp?
  5. S1 / S2 RB25DET? How do you know its 1 of the rear plugs that is misfiring? I've had similar problem - turned out to be a failing coil pack. Since you still have the OEM coils, suggest you upgrade to new ones.
  6. Bunnings must have something in a rubber grommet to fit. Maybe also Clark Rubber.
  7. With everything oem and brand new coil packs, its unlikely you need a .8 spark gap. Open the gap back up, around 1mm.
  8. Thanks your info. (btw, its definitely not a Neo)
  9. I have a Stagea RB25DET in my R32 GTS4. I was wondering if it would be any advantage to change the cylinder head for one from a R33 GTSt. Or maybe just the cams.
  10. I'm no expert, but I know enough about the basics. The figure being displayed by the PFC is the number PROGRAMMED into it. It is not telling you what it is reading but rather what it is trying to achieve. So, the PFC gets a trigger at some point, say 60BTDC, and then calculates when the engine will be at the programmed point, say 23BTDC, when it should fire the spark. So if the PFC gets the trigger at the wrong time, the actual firing point will not match the programmed firing point. I run a Wolf unit on my RB25DET, and it has a function to adjust the trigger point so that what is programmed is what you see with a timing light. Check if the PFC has a similar function. (And be aware, some timing lights seem to show double the actual timing) Now more experienced people can take over diagnosing your problem.
  11. Its an aerofoil for your wiper. Holds the blade onto the glass at speed. (passenger doesn't need to see where you are going, so LHS doesn't have one!)
  12. Well, that will put the CAS waaaayyy out of position. To test for valve damage, do a compression test.
  13. Looks a bit like a compressor for air horns. Could be wrong (wouldn't be the first time!)
  14. Couple of thoughts: Adjustable sway bar links not even. Pre-load on front or rear sway bars. Rear shocks uneven, try swapping them L<>R.
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