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About blind_elk

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    No-eyed Deer
  • Birthday 05/06/1954

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  • Car(s)
    R32 GTS25t-4

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  1. blind_elk

    Have you considered contacting Gibson Motorsport in Melbourne?
  2. blind_elk

    The Whiteline and Nolathane bushes are 2 totally different animals. The Nolathane units replace the factory bushes that locate the subframe to the chassis. The Whiteline are the "pineapples" you'll see referred to in many posts.
  3. blind_elk

    Which engine? 20 / 25 / 26? For a stock engine, plugs should be heat range 5 or 6, gapped @ 1.0 - 1.1 .
  4. blind_elk

    That was useful. Thanks, diff finally out. Now all I need to do is get the frikken shells out. This is what came out (+ shells still in pinion bush) This is what will be going in: I think the necessity of the task speaks for itself. I would like to replace the bushes that support the rear of the diff. Can it be done by dropping the cradle, but leave the diff in place?
  5. blind_elk

    Ok, I give up for now. Its like the diff isn't tilting down enough to slide under the pinion mount frame. But I have to get it out now because the existing bushes came out in several pieces, with the shell still stuck in place. Can someone email me the appropriate page from the manual so I can see how it all fits together. (
  6. blind_elk

    I'm trying to remove the diff in my R32 GTS4 to replace the pinion mount bushes (seems like a good idea, as the existing bushes basically fell apart!). I did it about 10 years ago, and it seemed to work, but now I can't seem to get the diff to move forward enough to disengage the cradle (rear) mount. Also, I need to disconnect the ABS sensors, but can't work out how - twist?, pull?, ? And, while trying to figure all this out, I found a wire and bolt floating above the diff - what did I miss when I last did this?
  7. Thanks for calling a truce! It is a S1 Stagea engine (probably equivalent to a S2 GTSt engine). Has VVT. Has been rebuilt with forged pistons. Think I'll save some coin and not do anything to it 😊
  8. A long time ago, I fitted a RB25DET from a Stagea into my R32 GTS4. I've recently started wondering if there are any differences between the Stagea head and a GTSt head - eg, cam profile, cam timing, chamber shape / size, inlet / exhaust port shape / size. Is it worth getting a GTSt head, or just GTSt cams, or it doesn't matter?
  9. blind_elk

    Then you need it to DISengage. Anyway This will do it.
  10. blind_elk

    You can all stop looking for a solution. When I initially installed the Wolf, I set up a little fuse box to protect things like injectors and coils. While I was installing the new bolts to the starter motor, I've accidentally removed a cable from that fuse box - so there was no power to the injectors.
  11. Have you also contacted Nissan Datsun Sports Owners? (
  12. blind_elk

    Well, I'm stumped. Got a compression tester and pressure gauge. I've got 44psi fuel pressure while cranking. Initial (cold) crank gives around 100psi across all cylinders, and final compression 135 / 125 / 130 / 127 / 130 / 130 (note: engine has forged pistons, so presumably will be a bit low on a cold crank). Engine can develop oil pressure during cranking. According to the Wolf: Cranking speed is around 220rpm, cranking volts 11V (Wolf handset). Injectors have power, coils are firing, input trigger is firing (ECU lights) Any suggestions as to where to look next. Anyone available in W Subs Melbourne to give me a hand.
  13. blind_elk

    I have spark, so at least the exhaust cam is turning the CAS. I'm guessing the rest of the engine is turning on the starter motor.
  14. blind_elk

    Short story long: Went out to fuel up the night before I was due to go to Phillip Island, Labour Day weekend. Car wouldn't start at servo, discovered missing top starter motor bolt and almost missing lower starter motor bolt . Managed to get lower bolt back in, starter worked. Drove to PI, drove home, everything fine. A week later, I removed the lower bolt so I could be sure I got the correct size replacement, got 2 new bolts for starter motor, fitted them (after basically removing everything from the engine bay ). Went to start the car (on a jump), just spins over - absolutely no sign of wanting to fire. I have spark. Pretty sure I have fuel (not confident of fuel pressure though). Don't know about compression (although don't know why it would suddenly disappear). Replaced fuel filter. Pretty sure I haven't disturbed any of the air hoses under the manifold (but how do you tell on these MFs). Any help / guidance appreciated. Engine is RB25DET, running off a Wolf 3D4+ ECU. Has basically been running fine since installed - this is the first real problem of this nature.
  15. Do you know what fuel pressure you have with the adjustable FPR? Have you tried playing with the fuel pressure? Still running standard RB26 injectors?