blind_elk

This is my understanding - feel free to correct me if I'm wrong - but forged pistons need to run hotter (work harder) than cast pistons so they expand more to fill the cylinder. Basically they run in a competition engine. Given that understanding, if you are only building a daily driver, why do you need forged pistons? And why do you need a 25/30 - what is wrong with a plain old 25?

Bendix DB1170 SRT - brilliant. Any temperature, STOP, no fade.

This is what mine look like:

(upside down because that's how they were pictured!) Aha! So it IS the type I need! Actually found replacement bolts that come with a flat rubber washer from EFI Solutions (https://www.efisolutions.com.au/billet-rocker-cover-washer-retainer-kit-rb20-rb25 ) - might fancy-up the rocker covers with a set.

As I said in OP, the grommets (washers) are different. I need the plain flat type that acts like a washer - the kit I originally got has the type that insert into the retaining bolt hole. I'll give kudos a call Monday, see what they can do. This is NOT the type I need:

Apologies, but not willing to hunt through 21 pages of "Stagea Parts List". I have a RB25DET from a (early, 1996?) C34 in my R32 GTS4, and I need a new Rocker Gasket Kit, including the washers.On the assumption that all 25s are the same, I got a Protorque GVC6100 kit, but it has the wrong style washers, and the gasket appears to be a bee's-dick short. Most kits don't clearly show the washers, so I don't know if they will work. I've found a Durapro GSRC3025K, but again not confident it has the correct washers (washers need to be basically flat, not the type that insert into the rocker). I contacted my local Nissan dealer, asking if they could get the correct kit if I gave them the engine number. The can only search on a VIN. There are kits on eBay, but they claim to fit 180SXs as well as Stageas / R33s / etc, so I'm dubious that they are the correct kit. Anyone done this before? Maybe give me your VIN so I can quote it to the dealer. Any help / guidance appreciated.

So, where is the accumulator?

Well, finally got new solenoid fitted - no-one said anything about needing to drop the diff! Still getting code 18, which suggests its the pump that is rooted. Anyone know if the pump is repairable / serviceable? Where I might find one (even to take apart to see how it works)?

I used Stagea diffs (4.08:1) in my R32 GTS4 after I swapped in a RB25DET from a Stagea. Simply swapped CW / pinion onto the R32 centres. Installed a speedo drive from a GT-R to bring the speedo back into line. (Front diff is still open,but then I don't have mind-boggling power - 180aWkw is enough to scare me!)

I finally got round to purchasing the replacement solenoid for the ATTESA pump (refer my post in Vic section from April/2022). So today I tried installing it - what a @#$% problem that is!. Gave up quickly, decided to see if simply bleeding ATTESA would help. Found a uTube video, watched, seemed simple enough. Had difficulty bleeding the rear nipple (can't swing a brake spanner up there), and had minimal fluid come out. So, to front, disconnect clip, crack nipple, pump works for a bit, then stops. Keep cracking nipple, pump not working. (when disconnected, torque gauge goes 60% - is that right?) So, anyone got a diagnosis? Is the whole ATTESA f*kced? Do I need to totally dismantle it and reassemble? BTW, pic of my reservoir:

Hi All, I want to get my bonnet resprayed, but I want to retain the car to use while that is being done. So, anyone have a spare bonnet to suit a R32 GTST that I can borrow for the duration? Cheers

Usually "undersize" rotors have worn below the thickness threshold. Peeeeetaaah - why don't you measure the diameter of what you have now so you will know the correct size replacement to get?

Sometimes, the timing light indicates the incorrect timing. How did you actually measure / set timing?

Its really happening - again. Check out NDSOC website for details. https://www.ndsoc.com.au/events

Well, finally got a response from Frenchy (amazingly almost immediately after I resent the original request with tracking). Looks like it is not really a DIY repair, so now need to find a mechanic, preferably Western Subs / Werribee, who can install this new pressure sensor. TIA

Thanks Duncan. Not the answer I was hoping for! 👎 for them getting back to you when you ask a question.

Well, I finally got around to getting the kit. But where does it go? Is it in that cluster that sits on top of the (rear) diff? (asked frenchy, no reply, and no instructions available)

I was looking at the DBA website for specs. I think I read correctly as far as R34 GT (N/A) rotors (not GT-T) were concerned. My bad if I mis-read the whole thing.

No-one seems to have considered that R34 rotors are thinner than R33 (26mm vs 30mm). I suspect there will be a problem that the pistons might pop out if the pads wear too thin. I would not bother upgrading the rears - the majority of braking is done by the front brakes. I suggest upgrading the fronts to R32 GT-R rotors / calipers. The rotors are larger diameter (296mm) , and thicker (32mm) than the R34 setup. At the least, GTSt rotors / calipers (280mm dia, 30mm thick).

Works when 12V applied directly. Supplier claims works on Pos and Neg earth system (although doesn't work when battery polarity reversed), and CANBUS compatible.

Can't change polarity. And applying +12V to centre terminal suggests that they are the correct polarity.

I'm trying to get LED lamps to work in the map lights of my X-Trail. I've purchased several different BA9S LED globes, but cannot get any of them to work when installed. I know the LEDs actually work (tested straight off the battery), and I know that I have 12V at the lamp holder. Any suggestions as to why the little buggers won't work when installed.

X-Trail is 28mm thickness (GTSt is 30mm), hat height is 49mm (GTSt is 54mm), mounting location is same spacing as GTSt, (although there is a possibility that the ears may be different ). My problem now is that I used to have a set of R32 calipers, which I gave away after I upgraded to GT-R rotors / calipers on the front on my GTS4. Now, if you get change from $500 for a second hand set, you are doing well.

MC bore = 25.4mm (1") Caliper Piston bore = 44.4mm

I'm planning on upgrading the disks on the front of a '06 X-Trail. Currently they are 2-spot floating calipers. I have worked out that the disk diameter is the same as a R32 GTSt, but the current disks are a bit thinner, and slightly "less tall" (back of disk to front of hat). R32 GTSt rotors and 4-spot calipers should simply bolt up. My question is - will this work, mostly in terms of pedal feel. Will I be able to get enough fluid pressure from the original MBC, or do I need to upgrade that as well. TIA