blind_elk

But that's what I have to do. I have to literally lock myself IN the car, then unlock before I can start the engine. As did my previous alarm. With this new one, I need to do it with IGN = ACC - cannot do it with IGN = ON. My old alarm only activated the immobiliser once I had removed the keys from the ignition (as does yours). This one activates once the engine has stopped. The keys can still be in the ignition (like when I'm waiting outside a shop while my passenger goes in for something), and the immobiliser will activate 30 seconds after the engine is stopped. Let me clarify - I'm only complaining about the immobiliser here - if the alarm is on, then the doors are locked, and I can't get in the car anyway.I could do this with the previous alarm, too. If the immobiliser had activated, and I tried to start the engine, then the siren will beep - I simply press one of the buttons (IGN still ON), then the immobiliser is de-activated, and I can start the engine. It needs to be FULLY armed ie doors locked, then disarmed before the car will start after the immobiliser has activated. That's the annoying part of it.

I have one of these myself. I'll fill you in on what I know, from having done it, having heard about it, or having head about / done on another model Nissan. Power Up - fit a R31 X-member, then any of the RB-series engines will fit. But that will require a new gearbox and modified tail shaft. Alternatively, an upgrade to a L28 (280ZX) engine, upgraded camshaft + extractors, might come close to what you are chasing. Camber - By relocating the pickup point of the lower control arm, you can possibly crank some camber into it (but probably not "serious" camber). Others have been known to bend the strut at the stub axle connection (I think that's it, but never witnessed it) You won't get more camber by changing the castor. If you fit LJ Torana castor rods IIRC, you effectively get adjustable castor rods, because the threaded section is too long. Hope that gives you some ideas.

I have a set of R32 GTS4 stock springs that have been reset to lower the ride height. I could probably get them to you for about $120 (delivered).

Let me ask some people about freighting it up there. I can probably do that price as a "delivered to your door" price, depending on the freight cost. It should simply drop straight in and bolt up to your gearbox (as willl just about any L-series engine).

Have a chat with Daniel @ DJM Automotive in Burwood. I don't think he's at work this week, though. ph 98082590

I think it's because of the design / shape of the combustion chambers. Just what I was told, but the last thing I need is an engine that pings. Probably 100k on it, but the L-series engines I have found to be almost bulletproof, not like the RB-series.I replied to you "Wanted to Buy" with a price. That would include an intercooler, and the RB-series dump pipe. The engine is set up to run off a Wolf 3D - that is available also, say $300 for ECU + loom. I'm in Melbourne.

How about Yokohama A539s. I know they come in the 15" size, and pretty sure they would also come in the 14" as well. I have them on my R30, they seem OK (although the R30 is not the gutsiest or highest performing beast around!)

Luke, I have one of the hatchback versions. I also investigated just grabbing the turbo gear of an L20ET and whacking it on the side of the L24. However, it was suggested it would probably ping its brains out since the combustion chambers weren't designed to operate in a boost situation. But then, if you installed aftermarket ECU, it would obviously possible to tune it to suit. I happen to have available a L20ET, that I ran in a 240Z for a while. It has since been modified with a RB20DET BB-centre turbo, as well as still having the gear to hook up a Wolf 3D ECU. Also has been modified to use a small intercooler. As for the VL motor, I am lead to believe that basically all that needs to be done to install any RB-series engine into the R30 is to get hold of the R31 X-member, then the engine will drop straight in. Then of course, you need the RB gearbox, and the RB drive shaft.

Just happen to have a L20ET sitting out in the garage. Has a modified RB20DET BB-centre turbo. Can let it go for $350.

I'm sure a search of the forums will dig them out for you (Probably in a thread featuring SydneyKid).Alternatively, have a look at www.whiteline.com.au - they had a R33 project car; I'm sure the settings they developed will be there somewhere (start under "Your Car").

You have to take the head off because the pistons will only come out and go in through the top of the block. If you want to take them out the bottom, you will need to remove the crank. To put them back in through the sump, you need to get the ring compressor up inside the block - well nigh impossible, I reckon. But, it isn't necessary to actually remove the engine from the car. Just raise it off the engine mounts to remove the sump.

Most cars will pull down the camber on the road. That being said, this 33 is older than your first? The suspension is older. The suspension bushes are older. As suggested by FAT32, it's probably time to start replacing bushes (particularly castor bushes), and maybe new shock absorbers.

The guy that installed it (at my "tame" Autobarn) reckons that's the way they all work now. Didn't get a manual, but will ask next time I see them (need to pick up my new DBA4000 rears). Must find out the brand while I'm about it. With the old one, as I said, I could hit either of the buttons, even when IGN = ON and disable the immobiliser. Really seems stupid to have to lock yourself in the car first, just because you stopped the engine for a minute to do something.

When was the last time you had the injectors cleaned? The ignitor modules (little black box at the rear of the valley cover) are prone to start misbehaving under heat stress. They often recover once everything cools off. Try swapping with a known good one. Try cleaning the AFM, maybe swap for a known good one.

The <Search> button might be of some assistance.

Just had a new alarm installed. It has engine and fuel immobilisers. My old alarm, the immobiliser wouldn't activate unless the key was removed from the ignition. If the immobiliser had activated, all I had to do was press one of the buttons, even with ignition in ON position, the immobiliser would deactivate, and I could start the engine. This new one - it activates about 30 sec after the engine is turned off. Even if I leave the keys in the ignition, the immobiliser will eventually activate. Then I have to activate the alarm (locks doors) then de-activate it before I can start the engine. This means that even for something simple like buying fuel, to leave the servo I need to lock myself in the car, then unlock the car before I can start the engine. And the ignition cannot be ON to do this - it has to be in the ACC position. This seems damn stupid - is it supposed to be like this? Does anyone else have an alarm that works like this?

Scott,I have just received a renewal notice for my L2, and it includes a requirement to purchase a CAMS manual. It's part of CAMS' risk management to keep Personal Accident premiums down. EDIT Apologies all. I've obviously misread my renewal notice. You get a "handbook". A CAMS manual is not compulsory (but it is a good idea to own your own).

Each event will have a document (called "Supplementary Regulations") setting out the requirements for the event - what you need, what your car needs, the format of the event, where, when, how, how much. When the event is "open for entries", get hold of that document and READ it. Everything you need to know will be there. Word of advice now - the event IS NOT A RACE. So there is no need to go out there and try and set a new outright lap record. If you haven't driven your car on any race track, particularly this race track, then please - TAKE IT EASY. Your car will handle differently than it does on the road, it will work the brakes harder than it does on the road. Take the opportunity to LEARN. There are no sheep stations at stake. You will not get laughed at if you tootle around letting everyone overtake you. You WILL get laughed at if you put the car into the wall at Turn 1 the very first time you get there.

You fitted the calipers to the correct sides of the car? Bleed nipple at the top. You should be able to simply open the bleed nipple and let gravity do the work of filling the chambers - slow and tedious, but effective. I wouldn't be surprised if the pistons were siezed in the calipers, though.

Actually you don't need to disconnect the battery to reset the ECU. You simply short out 2 pins in the CONSULT port, located down by the fuse block, near your right knee.

Stagea is 4.083

OK, I don't have a RB26DETT in my R32, but it only pulls around 3k rpm on the highway. And that's with a 4.375 diff ratio. The GT-R has a 4.111 ratio, and the GTSt, AFAIK, has a shorter (?, lower number) ratio. So, how slow do you want the engine to be running at 110 kph?

The only thing that will happen is that the sirens might go onto battery backup, and scream their lungs out. You should have a key to turn the sirens off in this situation.

Famous last words - we've all said them. If you are not even getting your Ps until May, then settle for the GTS. Get some experience under your belt. You will have 3 years of learning (not the type of learning to get the licence, but proper learning to DRIVE!) to save up for the turbo version. In the non-turbo version, you will not get into trouble as quickly as you might with the turbo version. Patience, young grasshopper.

For #2, the adjustment mechanism is similar to the one for the alternator. It will be more apparent once you remove the IC pipe. I certainly found it far easier to adjust the belt tensioner this way.