blind_elk

Isn't the setup: Top - return from fuel rail 2nd top - overflow to fuel tank 3rd top - inlet from fuel tank Bottom - outlet to pump to rail

Then you will just have to backtrack through the electrics until you find where you start having power. I think it highly unlikely that anyone can simply come up with a "it will be here" solution.Having said that, check that the relays are working.

If it happens when you load the electrics, then that suggests a problem with the alternator. Or possibly a bad earth.

Doesn't hold true. Just because you are doing less revs doesn't mean you are using less fuel. The engine is at its most efficient when near peak torque. 60k in 5th isn't within a bull's roar of peak torque.

I believe that switch controls adjusting the mirrors, not folding them in or out.

Have you tried the drive cog from your original gearbox? Failing that, the box is made by Nissan - I wonder if they have a drive cog? (you will need to have some idea of how many teeth you need on the cog, depends how far "out" the speedo is with the current R32 drive)

(without actually viewing the video) More precisely, it will be the solenoid on the starter motor. It is caused by not enough charge in the battery to support starting the engine.

It could also be a failing water pump. Lack of use of coolant (generally by the previous Japanese owner) causes the impellers on the pump to disintegrate, and the coolant doesn't get circulated very well.

Based on my own experience of using thermatic fans in Skylines, my advice has to be DON'T. That being said, it really doesn't matter where you mount the thermatic sensor. You should use the highest temperature switch available. It doesn't matter that the engine gets quite hot - it will only get to these temperatures generally in stop-start traffic, when there is minimal air flow through the radiator to cool the coolant. Once the car gets moving again, the air flow of the car moving should bring the coolant back to "normal" temperatures. It is a waste to use a thermatic switch that turns the fan(s) on at near "normal" operating temps - all you have done in that case is shifted to load on the engine from the original fan to the alternator. (the purpose of the thermatic fan is to remove some load from the engine)

Thanks

The auto-park on my rear wiper doesn't work, so I need to time turning it off to park it. Would just like to know which way it should be pointing when parked. (atm, I park it to the driver's side) TIA.

Tell them to look harder. I found all the following rotors for a 33 GTSt on the dba website. They have: Street series: DBA908 - Std DBA908SR/SL - Slotted 4000 Series: DBA4908SL/SR - Slotted DBA4908XS - Slotted, cross-drilled

Don't know why it is a defect. My 32 works the same way, and I have NEVER had a problem with RWCs.

What was the mod you just did? I'm guessing it was to fit big cams. That will contribute to the problem, and will probably be fixed by remapping the idle settings in the ECU.

Don't know which switch is which, but the wiring shouldn't be a problem as they are simply switches - no +ve or -ve needs to be considered.

Yes, lower control arm is bent. The GTS4 arm is the same as the GT-R. I have a LH arm available.

There is a whole binch of things that can induce and/or reduce understeer. Try inflating the front tyres about 2-4psi above the rears. I have a GTS4, and found that a heavy rear bar, combined with the standard front bar, was good for a neutral to slightly oversteering car. Do you have any -ve camber in the front? Try taking some -ve camber out of the rear. What spring rates are you running? Also, try adjusting driving style. If you are braking as you turn in, then the car is more likely to understeer as weight transfers to the front outside tyre.

Maybe there's some wear in the sensor contact that causes a lower than factory voltage reading.Did you measure ohms on the other pair of pins - one way or the other, there will be 0 ohms @ throttle closed. At the end of the day, if 0.22V causes the idle rpm to be at a reasonable level, then who gives a rats about what the manual says?

Just hope the police don't see me mowing lawns. My self-propelled mower is forever losing traction!

Odd that a L20ET and short gearbox, and a Wolf 3D w/wiring for a R30 should appear - yes, I know, not together - in the OP. Because that is what I had in my R30 when it was stolen last year. Car hasn't been found, so it must have been stolen for parts, and is now spread across 15 different cars.

The TPS has 2 parts - a SENSOR, which tells the ECU how much throttle is being applied, and a SWITCH, which tells the ECU that the throttle is closed. Your description suggests that the SWITCH component isn't set correctly. I think it is pins 1 & 2 - ohms should be 0 when throttle closed, and not 0 when you crack the throttle open.

Just set it up in the middle. The engine will (should) start, but may not necessarily run nicely. Once up to temp, get a timing light and adjust the CAS to set the base timing.

Was the ECU ever tuned for warm / hot starts? And why are the spark gaps at 0.8? Are you making serious power out of this engine?

The pads would overhang by 8mm. That means 8mm of disk pad isn't doing any braking, because it isn't in contact with the rotor.

Did you adjust the freeplay in the clutch pushrod? You may also have cracked the pivot on the thrust fork so that it will open up when the pedal is depressed, reducing the ability of the thrust bearing to properly disengage the clutch.