blind_elk

So, the clock resets to 1 when you switch the engine off (key at ACC)? Or the clock / trip resets after you start the engine? I would suggest that the clock and trip meter have lost the battery backup power - perhaps an in-line fuse has blown.

Did you READ what I wrote? I said that static voltage before starting is irrelevant, and that available voltage during the start procedure is what counts. Many batteries will show a "full" charge, but cannot start the engine. A static battery should not have more than 12 and a bit volts. A running engine will show around 14V at the battery because that is what the alternator's regulator is controlling it to. And the reason the voltage is around 14V is so that the chemical reaction that produces the static voltage in the first place actually "runs" in reverse.mad082, the battery is supporting an alarm, a radio with battery backup, and a clock with battery backup. All these act to drain the available voltage from the battery. (And the battery is a few years old now, admittedly) Apparently the secret to not blowing things up is to switch the parking lights on before disconnecting jump leads. That way, some of the excess current being generated by the alternator has somewhere to go, other than to the jumping battery, which suddenly "disappears" from the circuit.

It may take several days of everyday driving for the battery to fully recover. My 32 often fails to have enough grunt to start because I might not drive it for more than a week, but then after a couple of days of everyday use, the battery is fine again. And the battery is a couple of years old now.CARSICK - it doesn't really matter how many volts are available BEFORE startup - and 14V is too many, should only be about 12V - what is important is how many volts and amps are available DURING startup.

He said gets even worse economy when he drives like that,DUDE.

Along the lines of the current Michelin TV ads, what tyre pressures are you running? Try pumping the tyres up a bit.

2 minutes driving is not enough to fully recharge a flat battery. You need something like 20 minutes to do that.

First off, swap your own coil packs around (eg, 1<->2) to determine if it's the coilpack itself, or something else like an injector.Pull the spark plug to make sure it's still ok.

There might be something causing a voltage drop through the loom to hold the solenoid closed. Try setting up a relay to provide battery power to the starter solenoid. I found that that eliminated a similar problem in my 32.

Well, in my 30+ years of driving, including a lot of motorsport, I've never broken a clutch. And only ever replaced a clutch maybe 2 times, and only then because it seemed like a good idea at the time (gearbox out).

What are you doing to destroy 3 clutches in as many years?

The injectors are timed by the CAS. Because the CAS is the only sensor that knows where TDC is, and where each individual degree of crank rotation is. I'm guessing that if the ECU has switched on VCT, then the ECU knows to alter the injector firing time to suit.

so they DON'T lock up, actually don't STAY locked up. The ABS module bleeds brake fluid pressure so the (locked up) wheels start to rotate again.

Just because you can go into boost doesn't mean you must go into boost. Simple solution is to not go onto boost EVERY time you drive the car - there is very little reason to do so.

They are certainly different between the Stagea RB25 and the R32 RB20.

If you have odd wheels / tyres on the car, sort them out so that the wheel / tyre combo on each axle, at least, is the same. Then you might be in a position to diagnose what the problem really is.

Nothing wrong with it. The injector holds the fuel pressure. And it only opens for a few milliseconds each revolution during "start".

I believe that the copper tube is actually filled with a liquid, such as ether. If the tube is broken, the liquid will have escaped, making the gauge useless.

Truth be known, they are probably the same springs.

Yes. Couple of ways. Yes, use a noid light. Or use a stethoscope to listen to the injectors while the engine is cranking - you should hear them tick...tick...tick. Or remove an injector, stick it in a jar, loom connected, and watch it spray fuel as the engine cranks over.

The last time I got a Bob Jane place to do a wheel alignment, the steering wheel was off centre. Go and get a new alignment, centring the wheels to the steering wheel (ie steering wheel "straight ahead"). Get rid of the odd wheel and tyre on the rear. The odd (mis-matched) rear tyres make the car unroadworthy (unless you are running the space-saver spare). And check the fluid level in the P/S pump.

Check the catalytic converter hasn't collapsed.

Ok, it's fine that you have power to coils and injectors, but do the coils actually fire, and do the injectors actually inject? And do you have the fuel lines on the right way round?

EXACTLY!But it may also be a couple of wires have rubbed through and are shorting across each other. Good luck finding it!

I suspect it might have something to do with a bad earth. I note you have checked earth connections - have you cleaned the battery earth terminal? Have you done any work to the car recently? Something that might interfere with wiring? Drilling holes, etc?

Check all the globes first. Often the inside of the globe itself becomes coated with silver, reducing the light output. The reflectors usually fade, so any amount of washing will be a waste of time and effort.