hypergear

T04B wheel is a 16 fin 58T 71mm wheel is not really good for high flow purposes. and likely to surge as the exducer of it is too short for the inducer. But either way you shouldn't be getting surge at low RPMs. also depends on the type of turbine wheel you got there. Do you have a photo of the turbo with booth wheels? We have .63 and .82 turbine housings to suit OEM setups if needed.

With the 2x PU highflowed curves tipping off this is due to the stock actuator been too soft. (didn't have high pressure actuators and wastegate controller back then). They are capable of making lot more power then that at full potential. Also please try to map kwickr33's ATR43G4 dyno reading. I believe that is a very interesting read out.

With all the bits installed and a good tune. you will be able to get 270rwkws pretty easily running ATR43G3 .82 turbine on 18psi. Also for Actuator DIY people. This is a alternative method of getting 12psi without boost controller. I've personally managed 14psi tops. This extender arm is for $25 for who ever needs it. You need to cut and thread factory actuator’s connection rod to get it installed.

With ATR43G3 .82 you will get full boost at 4300RPMs. With the current waste gating control you should be able to get 300rwkws on 22psi flat with supporting mods. In most cases you will get some where between 270~280rwkws on 18psi. Supporting mods you are recommended to get: 850cc injectors Z32 AFM ECU (Nistune or PFC) Cooler, clutch, exhaust and all usual stuff.

Normally means there are small cracks or uneven surfaces on rolling objects. It's the early stage of failing. This noise do gets louder with time. It is recommended to have the turbo overhauled at this stage. It will be very difficult and expansive to overhaul once wheels scrubs. Oil contamination would be the main cause of it. Run a small inline filter before putting the turbo back.

Its a 3inch Stainless steel Vband. You can get it from your local exhaust places for about $40. If you run stock actuator you should be able to drop some boost. But ATR43's comp housings doesn't have OEM actuator bracket pattern so installing it on the car would be abit of challenge. Can be done.

This is a photo for people who prefer to DIY their own actuator bracket. This is modification is included as a part of our high flow service. This post is for people who didn't sent in their actuators. basically drill or file fitting wholes 5mms towards turbine housing. Once done the factory actautor can be pre-loaded or adjusted.

We didn't install a larger flap its not needed. But we did port it out to about 26mms from 24mms. This is to all high flowed units, It have worked well, I have not had any one had boost control issues with it yet. Go big isn’t always better, Bad point with larger disc and massive wastegate port: You need to know the force exerted onto the actuator is: Pressure x Area. If we use a 32mm disc and port that out to 30mm. Then we will have a massive boost drop towards red line. Most of use have seen this happening with internally gated GT30 units and high flowed units. Boost clam to 18psi in 4000RPM then drops back to 15psi by 7000RPM. With this small .58 size housing running 30mm port we will definitely have issues holding boost up top. And don't think "big can" actuator helps, I've tried it, it does not work. In our ATR43 G3 and G4 units which requires a massive 30mm internal waste gates to avoid boost spike and still be able to run flat 20~24psi, we’ve come up with this unconventional method: to deliberately create a controlled boost spike, so we won’t have boost drop and power lose up top.

Had a read at your previouse post. We believe boost creep is caused by your dump pipe:

Prices are lot cheaper the Garrett stuff we are using. Can you guys pm a price list for the CHRAs with/out comp housings? We can build OEM housings to suit them for Nissans and Toyotas. If things turns out better then Garrett we will be happy to purchase some of your CHRAs for customs builds.

33s are bigger.

Is that a Ebay GT35R you are using? wort sort of spec is on the turbo? have photos of both wheels and dyno reading?

The ones we high flowed with hits full boost at 3000RPM. What sort of Rear housing are you useing? Also check wastegate to make sure its 100% shut with slight preload.

Standard high flows are done by using factory housings and actuator. R33 high flow maxes around 240rwkws R34 high flows maxes at around 260rwkws. UP high flows comes with larger .63 or .82 turbine housings with high pressure actuator. They maxes around 280rwkws SS high flows are made for fast response. They maxes at 230rwkws with R33 turbo housings (.63 PU upgrade turbine housings is available for 250rwkws applications) 250rwkws with R34 turbo housings Photos of above are in our discussion thread.

HyperGear Turbocharger high flow and overhaul services: Australian Made Turbochargers that is made to bolt up to factory RB20/25det engines: Information relating to profile, model updates, installations, dyno read outs and etc at are our discussion thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hy...ce-t261613.html All of our work and product supplied are covered with 12 month warranty (excluding engine oil related or object damage). for All high performance applications. Please give us a call on 0413457185 or 0390163965 if any assistance is required.

Well few reasons. First of all turbo is bigger and heavier built with steel so you will notice some sort of lag. Should be getting full boost around 3500 mark. Drive it for 150KMs you will note the response of the turbo improves. After a good tune with supporting mods, you will get around 250rwkws mark.

I don't think Garrett GT3586R is big enough to do 75LB/Min in what ever A/R comp housing. might be a GT40xx?

Best to not to till a new turbo is installed.

This happens when the turbo looses its driven wheel.

In This case the actuator has been adjusted. No need to touch that. If water is leaking through the cooper washers you will be able to visually see it. Get a pressure tester onto the radiator and see where the water is leaking from.

I had this sort of reading with my test car before it popped. This was due to stock intake pipe sucked shut intermediately under heat and pressure.

Also with the turbo. Check the turbine wheel and housing of it. I had some piston rings and chucks of pistons stuck in there.

idle rich is mainly on O2 sensor. Plug it in to a Diagnostic computer and see if that shows lean rich lean rich lean rich .... it doesn't then O2 sensor needs to be replaced. What is this internally gated screamer? did you chop a section off it for the external gate sound? One of my friend tried it. Car just sounds like a permanent exhaust leak. Didn’t work as expected. Also you must adjust the stock actuator flange to ensure waste gate is shut. We adjust it free of charge if that was sent in with the turbo. Information regarding "how to" is on my 30 pages thread.

Run straight from boost source to actuator. should get 7psi. If it doesn't work. it either means your wastegate is jamed or leaking actautor diaphragm

My engine blew up on me twice. I didn't end up with massive amount of oil in the throttle body or cooler piping. Most of oil just shoot like a high pressure pistol from the dipstick pipe. To me that much of oil is unlikely to be the turbo. But check to see if it turns or got shaft play or missing wheels.