rev210

I used the 'extra load points' on the SAFC Neo, why wouldn't you? There still aren't enough of them but, for the money it's as good as you get. Like I said the choice between S_AFC II and Neo is easy, the SAFC II doesn't have as many load points as the Neo therefore the SAFC II isn't as good.

Hang on mate! Extra load points are exactly what you want!

you do get the profile specs in the box but, you will need to use the tools to set them up or at least check it's set where it should be.

After a little research I went for just a HKS 264 on the exhaust side with a standard inlet for an old R33 gtst. It proved very effective on a mild engine , stock turbo & intercooler. I have attached a graph of the 'after' of a run in tune for my old car. The shape is a little different to what you expect from the stock cams. This tune was mega conservative on timing(run in tune) and low boost (6 psi) 175rwkw at 5,500 (the top end power was tuned off on purpose). This was a stock turbo + intercooler + SAFC II. Afterwards the car was tuned to make the better part of 180rwkw by around 4,000rpm @ 10psi for the new owner. The car came on boost very hard, I estimate it would have made around 200rwkw by 5,500rpm on the same boost with a Power FC and some more tuning. The guy who bought it had not owned a performance car before and wisely took my advice to leave the power where it was till he got used to it. It's a shame I don't have that dyno graph anymore. And I lost touch with the guy who bought it. I would certainly vouch for the tomei offering for 3037pro, more than the smaller stock turbo it will really wake up with a decent size of cam on both ends. If you decide to squeeze more top end out then with higher RPM a set of beefy valve springs to go with them is a good move too. Do get some cam gears for them all the same since we have new fuel offerings being made availible (like the ethanol variants) which you can capitalise more on with an appropriate adjustment to cam timing.

you don't get the little degree wheel card, at least I didn't. No big deal you can download a template from the net (do a google) and borrow/buy/hire a dial guage or borrow/buy/hire the wheel at the same time.

hi ike, The difference in fuel we use here as opposed to Japan makes for a very big difference in tune not only in fuel but, also in the timing maps. These alterations make for the need to have access complete adjustment to these cams that were most likely optimised to 104 octane fuels and the burn characteristics.

platinum plugs for stock passenger cars and nerdy drivers. For many years I've used copper plugs for the basic reason that plugs are a tuning consumable and a tuning indicator. When you start into performance tuning even at very mild levels irridium and platinum plugs become a waste of money. Not only that but being coated in a substance that promotes a very clean surface means they are pretty useless at acting as a tuning indicator.

NGK coppers, the BCP6ES as people have mentioned. Alternatively a swap of plugs, from the daily driven 6's to 7's for a track day is a better solution again. Platinums and irridiums are a big waste of money. Don't bother with them.

great a new turbo that lasts only 2 years! Sounds like a peice of crap.

I am not talking about a drag car either. You aren't reading it right buddy. Think about the corresponding torque of each curve. The torque curve on the cam timing adjusted curve is substancially above that of the non adjusted one. Well before the redline Gavs cam timing adjustments are proving thier worth. What I am reading in your post is you are examining the peak horsepower value and suggesting that I am pointing to it as a be all and end all. I am not. I am telling you for your own good that unless you understand 'average power' delivered over the entire power band you are not seeing what you need to in this graph. Increasing the length of the power band is one good way to up the average power and torque but, the other way is to fatten the power curve across the effective power band. I found an old dyno of some initial adjustments of cams on a stock turbo GTR, low boost and conservative timing and fuel. The lower amount is the '0' settings. I ended up with more power everywhere. The very top end is deliberatlly 'lopped off' as it was a very old motor. As you can see there is more 'response' in this example again. If I had the other graphs I'd post them for you too. Although I am being a little argumentative I only hope to help you out with some of my experience and often poorly atriculated understandings. I really would like to see you get the most from your car for what you want and I can't tell you how valuable cam gears are even before you get cams.

You have to learn a little more about reading power graphs. Response on the cam change would absolutely be night and day. Notice how the curve is dramatically effected once full boost is reached (these are pretty big turbos). Once the turbos are on boost all the way to redline there is a bucket load more power. This is your power band , on the track you setup gearing and drive the car within this area. The average power is 532rwhp with the cam adjustment instead of only 501rwhp, that is the average power all the way through that engines effective power band. If the two graphs represented two cars the cam adjusted one (the one with cam gears) would absolutely destroy the guy who didn't bother in any gear for accelleration. Around a track this would be far more pronounced than at a drag strip. This example spells out very clearly what you should be doing to capture 'response'.

Interesting Steve. Do you have enlarged valves or any porting work done? Did the tuner alter the fuel and ignition map each time the cam timing was altered? This is critical as changing the cam timing alone will almost always see power go backwards. I have seen a tuner make this mistake before. My old R33 Gtst had a HKS exhaust cam (factory inlet) and it needed moving to get the best result. Different kettle of fish again. At the very least you ought to be able to alter cam timing to see the power curve move down (and lose top end) and up (lose bottom end). Gav has I believe HKS cams for instance and doesn't run '0' either (they are new ones).

yes to me.

I'd reccomend basically the opposite. Putting cams gears on from the get go saves money in double tuning. By cam gears first then cams makes more sense if not only because on all the RB's from 20/25 & 26 gains can be had with stock cam timing changes, this is well proven. Depending on the engine setup it is possible to go backwards at the '0' mark with aftermarket cams (I noticed this on the GTR with stock turbos) this is because they are designed around an intended engine spec and setup. Perhaps a certain type of compression / valve size / manifold / turbo spec / head porting etc..... Bottom line is that if you are too broke to afford a few hundred bucks for some cam gears, re-consider the ownership of a GTR or RB26 equipped car.

I gained 20rwhp on tomei cams / stock turbos across the rpm range and slightly more than that with the group A turbos, a friend running garret turbos / poncams picked up almost 100rwhp up top with timing change (it went from 435rwhp to 529rwhp from memory, same boost). every single kilowat is not what you are after its being able to control the power curve shape that is good. You get more than single kw's and more importantly better 'average power'. Peak power isn't as valuable.

I'd reccomend new cam bolts too.

The actual cam manufacturers including HKS and Tomei will tell you otherwise, the fact they even make them and sell them as a package with cams is case in point. You do want to have them if you want to get anywhere near the full potential from the cams. They are a must have on the RB26 in question. As an example my old GTR with 260 poncams on stock turbos picked up plenty more power everywhere over the '0' position starting points and again when turbos were upgraded to group A's. food for thought

true they don't.. Tho' they make a little more than an RB20. I was thinking a TB42 or 48 - DET might be a go, not much bigger dimensions than the RB blocks, still nissan.

too many i'm afraid paul

sold to me!

You can 'run around' - 'in' this car..... it's even got FLAMES !

water/methanol kits are as old as the hills and they don't cost a fortune to make yourself if you have the time and can be bothered. You 'can' remove the air to air intercooler if you are drag racing and just the injection kit but, you might also like to switch instead to a water/air intercooler. Tuning wise you end up with an interesting mix of changes depending on whether you used the kit to nab more boost, timing or leaner AFR or the usual combination. From memory (although someone correct me if I am wrong) the 'ping' threshold is lower with the water injection effectively acting better on hot spots in the combustion chamber as opposed to an air temp drop of equivalent magnitude (waters specific heat value is rock & roll compared to the gas components in air). I vaguely remember conversation (alcohol and years of brain damage) with drag racers years ago at the old ravenswood drag strip about humidity and it's effects on the tune for supercharged engines.

You will be happy but never satisfied...

I did

I reckon 170rwkw-ish is all you need to crack 12.9 on road tyres as 2rismo has already mentioned. Drag radials lower again. Of course if you have lots more power it makes it easier but, I reckon it's not that hard. Practice isn't a difficult thing to do, thats what some of it comes down to as others have mentioned. This kind of drag racing requires very little actual driver skill at all.