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ylwgtr2

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Posts posted by ylwgtr2

  1. no worries mate,i wouldnt say its soft.If theres parts your not sure of and your ever in tullamarine on the bike feel free to swing past and i will take a look and give you my opinion if its polishable....many people come in to get there parts painted,i wizz the small 2 inch air buffer over it and whammo off they go without painting heres the details....

    https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CGYQFjAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fplus.google.com%2F109988743764491447826%2Fabout%3Fgl%3Dau%26hl%3Den&ei=r8QrUPKOFKSOiAfpyIGQBw&usg=AFQjCNH7bN88CXwhF3HD71DL3ZUdmyaobA&sig2=nPTZX044yRa_xNff-JYKvg&cad=rja

  2. its ok to use normal car polish or cutters on motorbike parts....farecla range is what i use at work all the time....they have finer grades in the cutters....the material used on motorbikes is the same stuff thats painted on your car....but keep in mind the original paint is quite thin.....most colours also have a ground coat....for example a VTR1000 in red has a pink groundcoat under the red....they do this to make the colours more vibrant....so sometimes you think you may be able to polish a small scuff or scratch out....but you end up wearing the red transparent overcoat thin exposing the pink

  3. havent had time to update but heres where its at...finished swingarm,epoxy primed,painted fitted and made the tool die to hot brand the seat (its really for my kxt250 resto but i will use it on this aswell to make it look authentic)Test drove the tool die,works great just need to fine tune the heat/stamp time...i tested it on foam backed vinyl so the die bottomed out and left a border,this shouldnt happen on the proper material as its not foam backed

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  4. I hope your health insurance is current.

    No worries ;) I raced an atc250r when i was 16 (i dont know how i didnt end up killing myself on it looking back)I have good experience on trikes but having said that they can turn bad on you at anytime and they bite hard!

  5. i should get the bearings/bushes/seals any day now then i will finish off the arm with paint and factory "uni-track" decals for the factory made look then i can fit it all in and put the wheels on,set the ride height up and work out the rake i will be using......i plan to make a set of billet triple clamps (wider than standard to fit a wide quad bike wheel in it) with rake built into them(the headstem shaft hole is bored on a different angle to the frames geometry).....what this does is changes not only the rake but the scrub radius so sitting stationary the bikes(or now trike!) handlebars should want to fall left or right.....but when moving it will want to track straight.Then for example when turning right(to turn these things you must slide them) the bars will automatically counter steer to the left.I will be doing the CAD for these in the next few days and making them in the machine centre possibly on the weekend.

  6. hahaha lad you like it..... nah still waiting for the body to come back from the blaster....he is pretty busy,when its done its done...i dont mind it just gives me more time to accumulate more new parts :)....anyway....pretty much finished the swingarm....about 6 hours all up,pretty happy still need to make the suspension linkage and weld it on and fit the bearings and bushes but i trial fitted to get an eye ball on it.....with out the swingarm linkages on it hangs down but you get the idea of how its gunna look.

    I dug out a new old stock rear fender for my KXT250 trike and sat it on and i think i can adapt it to fit(ofcourse i will be using the second hand one off the 250 trike as i will be using the new stuff on the 250......one day i will restore it :) )

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  7. heres a thing i been wanting to build since i was a kid.....Its a KX100 92 model that i bought some time ago that im converting into a trike.

    For those that dont know about these (motocross trikes) the silly things go against the laws of physics with there live chain driven rear axle,non IRS rear end and overpowered engines.They were started by

    honda in the early eighties in the form of an ATC250r.First version was powered by a honda CR250 air cooled motocross bike engine and as nomal someone asked "can we race these?" well sure as poo

    the americans started racing them.Other manufactures jumped on board and kawasaki manufactured the KXT250 with a Kx250 engine.In the mid eighties they started to get as advanced as the motocross bikes with front and rear disc's and a higher powered CR250 and KX250 water cooled engines....kawasaki had there powervalved engines for even more grunt throughout the rev range.Yamaha also go on the ambulance ride to the hospital and produced the YTZ250 tri-z......Im fortunate enough to have all three of the last models of all the above stashed away in the loft....they really are a fun thing to ride....or drive...or fight the laws of physics on.....The american govenrment banned the manfacture/sales on these things which wasd a shame as the japanese had put some money in developing these things....maybe to much???As they were built for the american market I see it as a case of "you wanted it.......here it is.....GOODLUCK!!!"Well they may be able to place laws to "protect the people" from doing there selves harm on these silly contraptions by placing a ban on big companys making and marketing these things....but they cant take away our desire and ability to modify things......this is going to be sick as :)So i bought one of the higher qaulity chinese quad bikes for the rear end/wheels and front brakes

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    here ive set up the standard swingarm in my chassis jig,its a global jig motojig,its for bending motorbike frames back into shape after youve had a stack,you can also build in it

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    here i have put the scheibner laser geometry machine on to measure all the referance points of interest,namely the space where the engine fits,the centre or the rear tyre and the offset of the rear sprocket...you can see the laser measuring dot on these points.

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    then ive set up the fixtures for the suspension linkage mount....now i have the bench set up with the centres of the swingarm pivot to centre of rear axle and the linkage mount point all mechanically and the laser measurements for all the other points of interest in the computer im ready to take the arm out and adjust the bench to take the track of the wide rear axle.....and im ready to build....ive cut out the rear carrier off the chinese swing arm and made the rest of the swingarm to the kawasaki specs........heres the unit still needing some braces in the rear half and the suspension linkage mount

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  8. genuine stuff is getting harder to get( and more expensive)Im constantly amazed to what pops up for sale though.....there is a bunch of repo stuff available....some really good....some not so good....for instance you can get repo door trims but they are not 100% correct....there is a lot of mazda guys that want to whinge at some of the repo stuff but personally i say well something is better than nothing....I been trying to get as much genuine stuff as i can (which i must admit....ive done quite well)other stuff that i cant get,im prepared to make.I could use the door trims,but im lucky enough to have the CNC machine centre so i can make the dies ect....with the stuff i deal with at work takes quite a bit of attention to detail and is time consuming so im used to plugging away at something till its of pretty good standard.I like to think of myself as a bit of an improvisor....Im also lucky enough to have a huge number of friends that are the same so between us we tend to come up with solutions......I think of things like this.....a group of guys once made it(many years ago i might add),so a group of guys can reverse engineer or remake it(especially in this day and age when we have easy access to precision robotic devices and good materials)

  9. ok so i saw a genuine GT the same as mine and managed to get a pic of the seat .....it seems they used a different font on the savanna on the seats as to the 1/4 panel badges......so now armed with this its back to the CAD to refine my original design....according to my homework this headrest was only used on this series car so i was very lucky to be able to take a look at this original one in detail

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  10. Booki that is all fine in the internet world but doesn't happenin the real world. No one looks at a bike that closely ever. You'll know when you find a good one straight away. I would get someone who has ridden and worked on bikes to see/ride it before you paid the final amount. Just put a $50 deposit down if your keen. 95% people will accept it.

    I've been riding since I was 14 so had a fair few bike over the years. Both road/dirt and they get abused..and worked on. Over 50,000kms on the road plus who knows how many in the bush and at the mxtrack.

    To be truthfull buying a road bike is pretty much the same as buying a high end pushy. There not that big an investment and they love to cop a thrashing. If it feels tight and is rediculously clean and owned by a festidous person with reciepts it'll be ok at a guess. If the owner is from the western suburbs or paky way for example you may need to think twice about it. You know what I mean. Don't take offence people.

    Most of what goes wrong with bike is an easy fix for a few hundred dollars if you give it a go. To easy to work on. Love ebay!

    The main thing you want to look for that that speal didn't mention or I missed it is - Any abrasion to the bike..Fork bottoms, pegs, bar ends, all levers, rear end swinging arm, inside fairings for cracks, engine cases and the muffler. It it has been dropped you'll know in about 20 seconds. Second thing is if it has it doesn't really matter if it wasn't to hard a drop. I've dropped mine doing a stoppie and also on a resurfaced road. They were both slow speed buy the time it hit the ground it did a lot of big dollar damage if you replaced it to be like new but it doesn't effect the bike at all and you can hardly notice it from 2 metres. Didn't replace anything after it. Just bent the clutch lever back. Could be a good way to save a grand or two. No matter what you think you will drop it one day. I don't know anyone who hasn't at some stage. If you don't feel comfortable its prob not for you. You'll become a real temporary Asutralian!! Also smoke on startup( make sure engines cold, touch it) and on decel when warm when revved.

    If its your first bike and your not into speeding you don't need $2000 leathers. If a car hits you or runs over you the quality of your leathers won't help at all. They mainly effect how long you can slide before it wears though. Most decent gear will get you through a 100kmh stack. A $300 helmet meets the same standard as a $800 but it weighs a little less. Try to get an aramide one. Don't trust plastic myself. Also good good gloves. Not a $80 pair. Get some like the races wear. You know their good for 300kmh offs. My good alpinestars has have lasted years and over 30,000km's so far with no wear but cost $300. I need my hands, don't know about you?

    I'd buy my gear after getting a bike myself. I'd rather a better bike and not so flashy gear but still good quality gear. Thats me though. Less image and more go for the money.

    Birds never ever spoken to anyone ever who has bought a bike depending on how it feels with your gear on. Never ever, ever, ever heard that before. Did a salesman tell you that. In the end if you like a bike how it looks/rides and has everything you want just buy it. Expecially if your only spending 4k. No LAMS bikes look good in my opinion. I'd just buy a real 600 for that money and risk the overpowered fine. But thats me. Rules are for breaking.......Even my first road bike is banned now a KR1S 2 stroke but only cost 1k. Was just off matching a 600cc.

    Ps - 250 4 strokes are like riding lawnmower powered push bikes, so slow.. Don't expect to much power to feel scared of. You'll be right. The plus side - Cheap to commute on!

    Can't we out west afford decent bikes????im not offended at all but what a stupid thing to say....seriously....you've made yourself sound like a dickhead mate .....

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