ylwgtr2

i got

i just done it....and it works.......heres what you do link out the test terminal with the "-" terminal....turn the ignition on....then remove the the link....then your code will be displayed(code 55 is ok)Got it???On another note to bleed the 4WD system.......The connector you see near the test connector is the link out for the pump.......over fill the bottle in the rear of the car then disconnect the bleed connector and turn the ignition on......the pump will prime....nows the time to get underneath and open the bleed nipple on the rear of the transfer case(on the slave cylinder)If doing a V spec do the rear diff nipple aswell...and theres the onscreen test i posted in your other thread.....To reset the airbags(airbag light) turn the ignition on and push the door lamp switch on the drivers side at least 5 times within a few seconds of turning the ignition on.....This works on ALL Nissan SRS airbag units....there is also a 4WD and hicas test function....but i CBF typing the ins and outs of it......

i posted it up on the other thread you done.....it wont work if you have a powerFC though Edit tell you what...i will go and do it on mine now just to make sure i posted correctly as its been a while since i needed to do it

i have a set here that read AGTR33 if there any good to ya

OMG....talk about people making things difficult with all this consult bullshit and guessing ect..........heres what you do....underneath the steering column theres a small trap door....open this and you will see a connector....Here is a dodgy pic i took from the R34 GTR factory schematic book.....if you momentary earth out he test wire the vehicle will enter diagnosis mode....the engine check light on the dash will give you a series of flashes....eg on once then on four times is code 14....once you have done a decode post up the code and i will tell you what it means.....on 34 GTR's you can also switch the dash meter into a sensor diagnosis mode...you do this by holding the two outside buttons down while turning the ignition switch on.....then when the GTR emblem comes up push the toggle switch 5 times....you can now check the operation of the TPS and the other sensors....if you have the nismo upgrade you can hook up your laptop and see it all working.... check you fuel pressure at idle and on boost with the appropriate test gauge....from all the info here you should be able to directly pinpoint the problem

i could have a look at it and devize an idea that would make it look OEM....possibly even get an original seal for it

i have the mould for the genuine one......

no it dont....it means i have a standard R34 GTR block............

my R34 block is stamped 24U

the v161 getrag that the supra and the R34 GTR use is a steaming pile of poo...... 3rd gear especially.....there noisy and notchy...there fine when you get them into gear....but its getting them into gear thats the drama....they like to strip the synchro meshing teeth off the gears....nissan dont sell parts to rebuild these gearbox's but fortunatly toyoya do....ask snowman....he has broken his...twice

well thats the problem.....the battery has given the ecu a low voltage code......D/C the battery terminals to clear it out and unless the battery is rooted you wont have a problem

you can extract a code from the ecu by putting it in diagnostic mode.....you do this by earthing a wire on the diagnositic connector under the dash.....then the light will flash a certain amount of times....i put my money on a low voltage code....this is corrected by fitting a new battery......if you want to clear out the ecu memory,take the battery terminal off overnight

Yes but your 1st post says that he would have to do something with his ecu or injectors or something....my point was that they dont use them.....and yes there is some experimental set ups that use an injector.....the guy in the factory over the road from me has been messing around with this for years.....but i think you will find that the guy that started this post plans to use a mixer type setup

Ummmm gas doesnt run through the injecton system.....and there are already loads of forced induction vehicles running this setup....many people buy import engines and use them in transplant conversions and use LPG to overcome the EPA and the no ECU problem....13BTs' are the most popular

hed***

go and see rob at HTR automotive 83617890.....he is in deer park and tell him troy sent you there....he will set you straight

actually emre was the dodgy welder and things dont just catch fire or fk up by them selves.....its usually when things arnt dun properly

i refuse to admit to the rumours of my $1000 a hand of baccarat is true

there is only one king of the ring......wheres that thread with the boxing pic of brisby?

12a freight rd tullamarine

hahahaha i though he dun well....at least the angles were correct...anyway i am thankful it at least fitted as here was one stage where i looked over and he was scratching his head and the peice of material had that many lines marked on it it looked like a roadmap ....oh and i have a peice of scrap metal here with eagle shit welds on it :kick: And roy the room is made of bondor paneling....my insurance company came in while i was building it,they thought it was and engineering feat , they loved it

the booth is 6m x 3600 but has a divider wall that breaks 1.5m off the end for the bake room.......the spray room will be heated by a dirty great big truck radiator with a pump circulating water from a hot water service the radiator will be shoved in front of the inlet fan(this design is pat pending ) the doors on the booth are too small for cars and i i delibratly made the booth too small(coz of the divider wall) for cars ......There is just no money in car stuff as the ratio of people that actually want a good quality job as opposed to people that want to pinch a penny is just far too small....My mate in the next street has a large size booth that i use if i need to paint full cars....my main target will be motorcycle parts and i can also do hanging panels from cars if i need to

well i havent had much breathing space these days and heres why....I am opening a new crash repair shop for motorcycles(altho i will still be doing all sorts of car related work) and have moved into a place in tullamarine when i have been working around the clock playing bob the builder,heres some pics of what i been playing with....first i made various benchs for preparation(water rubbing ect)you can see the mother of all stainless rubbing down bench Then i started building our spray booth/bake oven...Now these units are quite an expensive jigger(around the 60k mark new) so we decided to build our own....first we bolt down some channel for the wall sheets to ride in then build an elevated floor,the idea behind this is to have a grated floor with filters and an airtight chamber underneath it with a suction fan to expel the fumes/overspray from the booth(the booth is actually pressurised by the incoming air fan being a greater cfm rating than the one under the floor) next is the crossmembers are being fabricated.After thats sorted out we start assembling the walls and mark out our doorways then dismantle it again and cut them out and reassemble it again using the corner channel...then we cut our door jamb material out with mitre cuts to make the nice and neat(these things really mess with your brain!!)the waste that has been cut out from the doorway becomes our door after the apropriate alloy coving has been mitre'd and fitted....you can see the two alloy front access doors into the spray area then the other door on the left of them leads into a baking room and the one on the right leads into the paint room there is a door leading from the paint room into the spray area then another door leading into the baking oven from the spray area....so this is the system....parts get loaded in via the two front alloy doors,doors get closedand then you enter the paint room to prepare your materials,you then enter the spray area and do the job where is lies for 15minutes while you clean your gun up,then you re-enter the booth and shift the parts into the bake oven where they get cooked....while there getting cooked a new job is getting loaded up,saving down time in waiting for baking,the baked parts can be accessed via the front alloy door at any time...I still have to construct the roof which will cantain inlet filters and lights ect...I would like to say thanks to adzmax and ocean who have come down and lent a hand....it was very much appreciated so for those that have been waiting to bring jobs in...now you know what the delay is!(And thanks for being patient!)

so if you look on the rear of the part can you see its been repaired??My understanding of a good job is to not be able to tell its been repaired.....

i would recommend against using any glues.....they eventually crack and they contaminate the plastic so when you eventually try to weld them its an arse ache...but thats just me