ylwgtr2

i spoke to soon....the detonation was all too much and its since given up the ghost....it seems to have burnt out my bigend leaving severe scorch marks in the lower half on my undies......unable to be rebuilt,sandblasted or built up with stitching....looks like i have to get a cheap low klm import pair of undies(hopefully from a japanese school girl ) ah well....thats the price you pay for living on the edge.....

sorry for the delay andrew.....i been busy lately...give me a call and i will let u know what to do

I connected a set of standard injectors to my washing machine and gave it a 100% duty cycle burst of preen on the spin cycle....there was signs of detonation in my undies only...but damn they come out clean.....thats about the best thing i have acheived using standard injectors...hope this helps

Is that 350 and you prep it up yourself?dietmar...that guy used to work for sikkens...he is a bit of a machine i am told

Due to being ask a number of times on how to repair plastic parts i have decided to post yet another educational DIY thread...rule number 1 is bikes have 2 wheels and fall over quite often ....Ok so i have recently bought a Yamaha R1 that has been damaged and the previous owner has tried a DIY job and turned it into a shamozzle,so the first thing we do is remove all the fibreglass/filler and glue that he has applied....we do this by waving a heat gun over it and pry it away with a screwdriver....this as you can see in the pics uncovers holes and cracks all over the place,its really important that we get all the foreign matter out of the way on both inside and outside of the panel to ensure a good clean surface so the weld is nice and strong...today i just cleaned off the rubbish quickly and tomorrow i will blast it over with an orbital to flatten it off to prepare the surface for welding....Before welding we must determine what type of material it is,some straight materials have a marking such as ABS,PP,GF stamped or moulded into them on the underneath side,some are composites such as PA6+PPE ect ect some are even more elaborate and have 3 or 4 composites....and then theres times when there no marking at all this is when we use the "melt it and smell"test or melt it and "feel/vision"test through a soldering iron ....using these 2 test's to verify the material require experience....nylon is very smooth and shiny melting material and is quite stringy its also quite heavy...where as PP(poly propolene)is light,smooth melting with a dull appearance....ABS feels crackly and dry and GF(glass filled)is even more dry and crumbly and smell bakalite-ish.....You would be amazed at what can be resurrected from death......More on the actual welding tomorrow

andrew.....i just spoke to my guy at nissan....Nissan parts are under warranty australia wide....Meaning you dont have to go back to that dealer for a claim.........He said he will help you out......i am going to see him for some parts this afternoon and to discuss what he can do for you

it looks just how i imagined......shit

i have the one on the right....

actually i meant i wouldnt wipe my arse ALL reports.....even the legit ones......

your kidding right?It did have 5 other cylinders to push it along you know....

i am looking for a left hand lower control arm and radius rod

Sorry i wouldnt wipe my arse with those reports.......

I agree....youd wanna check what it actually is....had the same talk to a guy that supposably builds engines the other day...he said "plastigauge....thats old"...but after i said "why not check it hell i check everything at least twice" he started to back pedal after an onlooker(who was an engineer) agreed

I say they dont handle....sure you can get anything to handle after modding it....but out of the box,im sorry....they dont handle

thats what i thought....

yep it will.....theres something to do with bits as far as the diffrence the 33 is 32 bit or something like that...someone else may have more info but they do interchange and run one another as i had a 32 ecu in my 33 GTR

I remember one time that i inspected an R32 GTR at USS in saitama,after coming to the conclusion that the vehicle had A.a noisey oil and water pump B.Rust bubbles and water leaking in the boot,not to mention the damp smell C.excessive corosion on ALL nuts and bolts. D.Interior was very worn E.Paint was knackered(and thats a technical term ) Now i have restored vehicles and repaired almost anything so i have an idea on what can be serviced,repaired or rectified....but I refused to even considering sending this vehicle to a customer......the vehicle then ended up on someones website not mentioning any of this....infact it stated what a wonderful car it was.....some poor guy was waiting his car and this "thing"wouldve turned up.....what a joke.....

i have had 10 or so of these in the past.....one of them was lightning quick!They handle shit and they do not have attessa....they are constant 4WD

oh btw 2k is generally applied with a 1.2mm gun set up and acrylics with a 2.0mm....i havnt used acrylic for years but i have the following guns for the apropriate jobs..... 1X 1.2mm gravity feed w400 iwata for 2k clear 1X 1.2mm gravity feed w400 iwata for base coat metallics/pearls 1X 1.2mm gravity feed w400 iwata for 2k solids 1x 2.0mm gravity feed star(w400 iwata copy) for acrylics 1X 2.0mm sata jet putty gun for Hi build/primer i have all these as theres nothing worse than painting a solid and getting traces of metalic fleck through the job or getting a spatter of solid in a clear over base job

Dayna is pretty much on the money.....if its 2K pay attention to the type of hardner you use on the job as this will affect the flow ability of the material....for a top notch job use fast hardner and let that dry a week or so then knock the top/orange peel off of it with 1000 or 800 wet paper then recoat it...this process is called "flow coating"Its very easy to get runs flow coating a job so just be careful,dont load it up too much on the first coat then let it have it on the second coat.....also if be sure to let it dry a little before applying heat to the job otherwise you will get solvent boil......aplication temp for paint should be set on the oven at about 25-30 degrees then baked at 60 odd ...the biggest problem you have painting black is dust....it sticks out like dogs balls....i would be interested to hear what type of materials you have for the job....protech 606 is a good product as far as solid colours go and if you need to polish it it buffs up quite good

fantastic service from proengines.......i personally dont know many mechanics that wouldnt try and back pedal there way out of this one....can i ask is that the specified clearance for those pistons?have you ran this clearance before?

import it for racing use??Then just put the plate on?Thats naughty....

the plate could ONLY be used legit in a rebuild.....eitheir the firewall will have to be used or a rebodied vehicle report be done by an engineer.....

So are they snapped off right and the base?I think they have a locating dowl so the cant be put on wrong....or maybe they didnt have the sealing washers on them?

so was the squirter spraying oil straight on the rod/bore?If so i assume the thing would have been blowing excessive amounts of oil....i mean a simple thing like too much bigend trust will cause an engine to burn oil but i imagine the squirter blowing straight on the cylinderwall, the smoke would be terrible