ylwgtr2

after pricing up what it will cost to make the arms properly i dont think its viable to make them on a large scale and sell them ....theres just not enought interest not to mention theres most likely an offset bush thats available to give you more camber but none adjustable....i will still be making them...but most likely just for my own use...profile cutting,pipe bending,bush's,powder coating,plus the materials,my fabrication time and a donation to the club brings the cost to $450 a pair....something i think people will not pay

i had a set of brakes from wayne gardner's tohoku toms toyota JZA80 supra....these were awsome...the disc rotor was 16 inch with 6 titanium pistons magnesium body with a cute little radiator!I got them for my friend who still has them but hasnt fitted them yet...but there awsome!

i could help...pm me if you want..

this would be graham docker's new operation....he has been around for years.....he is the guy that done the evo's that came through mitsubishi australia......he was one of holdens head engineers.....However he made the papers a few years ago

they work with any shock......there a part on the linkage system.....

are you the ghostrider?

Hi people.....This week i will have finished a set of front upper arms......These will give you a variable camber adjustment.....i would like to see who would be interested in such a thing.....i havent worked out a fixed price yet although theres quite a bit of work in these so i wont be giving them away......If theres enough interest i will do the sums and let you guys know.....there will be a percentage that will be donated to SAU for all sales made........ but those that will be interested should know the going cost on these ...not to mention the importance of trying to save those expensive tyres on track days! Thanks

they have gone the other way to fully counter balance the crank.....putting the original crank between 2 centres with a fine bearing inserted in each end of the shaft the crank will "fall" to a heavy spot...even when pushed to a 170 degree rotation it falls with great fury to the heavy spot!I am amazed they get away with it!One would assume that the tomei one wouldnt move at all....much like the crank that i have just done....poke it with your finger and it just rotates a little and doesnt want to reverse or stop in the same spot twice.....Heres the finished unit next to its porker brother....its shed 3.5kg in weight in just under a week...try doing that on a jenny craig diet

old post i know.....but the top arms are the same for the 33 GTR/GTS-T...so there for camber can be acheived off the shelf.....i have a set that i will be jigging up

Havent really thought about it ....do i have any interest in these?If so i might pull my finger out

Hi doughboy....yes..i havent ruled out doing an RB30 GTR engine....i have the block here and have been throwing a few ideas around regarding the sump modification....

lets see some pics.....i will bet you its not a total loss,meaning it can be fixed

and if your buying it for 1500....you might need to stamp a new engine number into it.....

no dont do it....just give me the engine for 1500....i will take ten of them thanks

i was gathering parts for a drysump but it was going to be a hassle fitting it all in a road going gtr which was a pain coz i really wanted it....this particular engine was also meant to be an RB30 but the i didnt really have the time to do the sump modification....oh and the cranks are cross drilled from factory

you would really have to get a figure from a shop to get an accurate price...i have been told a rough price.Its a real ball buster of a job i have been standing at a lathe for 2 days just de-weighting it....then theres a heap of time balancing it up then polishing......for me to do more of them the money would have to be right

To my knowledge to have this done and balanced your looking near a couple of grand.....

I concur

Im glad your enjoying it!.......In regards to gojira's "oil splooshing"comment this engine will also wear a "crank scraper plate"Which runs a tight clearance between it and the crank edge....this removes any oil from the crank to stop it flinging all around the show inside the engine block....more on this later

ok rocket part number for scat rods is sc235060002000.... just tell them you want the same rod but in eagle brand...they might be able to help you then....good luck Just verify the size/application before you order them

you have to get them from usa or eagle spares in dandenong

oh and in the 3rd pic the left hand side of the conrod journal has been "done" and the right hand hasnt been done yet so you can see there is no material taken off the the "Power transfer section"of the crank

ok......gojira is pretty much on the money....."rotating mass" is the word for today.....Ever fitted a lightned flywheel?(andrew? )Its the same deal with cranks,pistons,rods and any thing thats rotating or reciprocating...the lighter it is the easier it will move and the less force it will take....therefore more response however there are trade offs.....example you will find that an engine that is made for smooth power will have heavier crank assembley(balancer and flywheel included)For take off heavy crank assemblys are good eg an idle no accelerator take off is easy......but try doing is with a light set up and you will most likely stall....This is because of the "stored energy" in the heavy setup is greater for obvious reasons....ITS HEAVIER!So in laymans terms it takes more grunt to drive a heavier flywheel/crank assembly but our aim is not to sit at constant speed...its to get it to the point of where everything happens in a hurry!Hope that makes some sense.....Oh and messing with the crank doesnt really cause them to break......its poor balance that usually does that...if you have a look at my doctored pic you will see the red line....thats the part that takes the stress i have only just taken the cast marks out of that.....the real weight has been taken off the crank webs on the opposite side.....just spinning the crank up it seems so much more "right"......you can see the crank doing "its thing" in the last pic

heres what we are aiming for....however these cranks are V12 jaguar cranks you get the idea....you can see a modded crank next to a standard crank

I did this at my mates place as the crank was too large for my lathe....he was making a set of extractors.....heres some pics of his handy work and other interesting projects in his shed.....