rb26s13

interesting... wats the idle like.. i assume you'd probaly have troubles getting it down to 1000-1100 range with injectors of that size? than again.. the cams in that thing would be rather large and probaly prefer an idle around the 1200rpm mark?

you'd be better off goin custom.. and looking at your previous threads i noticed your townsvillian.. just go see highflow ive heard he does quite good work for a reasonable price..

i vote for johnnys avatar happening on the bonnet of this r34. win win. and i take it you mean the injectors infact being different to what was stated as the rat.. regardless tho.. well done trent great work.

i'll gladly do it for you next time im down that way

bleed the clutch line still.. and perhaps adjust the rod inside the cabin at the top of the pedal.

just a guess.. could it possibly be a nics rb20 suited 2530?

as for the whole.. pre heat the metal than oxy cut the whole.. than die grind the rest would be the easiest not red hot.. just cast needs to be pre heated and post heating after welding.. around the 200degreeC mark should do it before welding to avoid cracking.. and it needs to cool down very slowly... so no dipping it in water after its been welded!

head gasket will be the same as all other rb25's with vct.

from memory finelines setup is a .82 and on full boost between 3500 and 4000 on well built motor with cams and headwork doin 500rwhp (well it was before the JB clutch exploded)

specs of the ARMS B7660 look similar to the 2860-5's however have a smaller comp housing... ARMS B7655 look similar to -7's but again smaller comp housing from memory.. cant be bothered looking into more details at moment.. will do tomorrow if someone doesnt answer it properly before than

does that include plug tho? and note the plugs ive got with these are your bullshit circlip type.. there the more expensive bosch type thats easier to use. and please feel free to link me to were they are advertised delivered for 308 with plug

i have personal experience fitting a t3t4 to an sr20 and have been in one of the previously mentioned cars that had a t70.. the t3t4 one wasnt to bad.. but was just done as a cheap laugh.. only ever ran 10psi thru factory s13 computer and afm the other one with the t70 on an sr20 previously mentioned from memory was running 16psi when i went in it and well.. the lag was absolute crap the wastegate barely opened for 1500rpm with the 7000-7500rpm limiter and well the kick for that 2000rpm or so were it made more than 4psi boost was pathetic...

surely someone is after one or a pair of basically brand new afm's...

IF they survive more than first start up they are extremely laggy and make piss poor power for there shitty lag. if your goin to mod cars.. dont be cheap with moving parts.. especially the main powermaker in the whole thing.. you really do get wat you pay for with turbos.

its junk cause your "quick" spool is absolutely pathetic 10psi by 3800 is shithouse for 220rwkw.

are you having problems with actual boost spiking? how many degrees is the flap coming out before it hits?

not good to hear at all mate... that box is here if you need it

have to dissagree... its a bloke abusing a dyno compared to a car doin an insane launch and taking off in a rocket ship having to dodge cars down the street!

as i told you on the phone 2 hours ago.. you need to put the box and motor back together dickheads

why put the engine in? the engine wouldnt be the problem if they wanted to go fasted for drag, it'd be suspension and other things like gearing.

umm hi octane is a track dedicated car.. not really a reference as a drag car allthough still suprisingly quick another thing i do find rather amusing from DVSGOD is the fact that he even said it himself.. he wont list specs he just hands over the money. i also believe the HT car thing is bullshit.. 1200hp would be a underestimate in my opinion..

you seem to have a great vendetta against rips.. honestly i dont give a shit, i dont have any experience with rips so im neither for or against this stupid pointless OFFTOPIC argument thats goin on in this thread... but most of wat ive heard has been good about them.. and there fuel systems to look tasty and gives me ideas for when i get around to making my own.

the funny thing is.. the guy didnt even look on the rips website first as i pulled this from there site a couple seconds ago. "RB30 Bare forged bottom ends (short block), start at NZD$10,450 (suit minimum 750hp and 8000 rpm)"

yeh when a mate of mine from NZ was telling me wat you could get away with over there in the ways of mods i couldnt believe it..

ive heard that the naprec valves run a smaller than standard size stem which could cause possible reliability problems in the long term with big revs.. i assume you've got the 1.5mm oversize.. so how are yours holding together and how long have they been in the car?