govich

I'll take it for $1200. See PM.

Well you could stop it from evaporating if your empty water methanol injection kit was really really well insulated, but it'd likely evaporate as soon as you injected it and that'd decrease the fraction of oxygen you have to burn. The only way you'd use liquid nitrogen is in a heat exchanger with charge air. Forget injecting it into the engine. Your main issue would be maintaining it at storage temp over time.

I also had my ECR33 tuned by Toshi recently, and i have absolutely no hesitation in recommending him to any of you. The car hasn't once run this nicely in the 3 years i've owned it. Toshi is also extremely friendly and helpful, and puts a massive amount of effort into making sure you drive away satisfied. Thanks again Toshi!

E-mail sent.

$200 on the Z32 AFM.

http://www.pitstop.net.au/view/products/pa...uery/plu/19158/ That book is quite a decent start. IMHO you need to figure out in your head how an engine works (not just piston goes up and down) and the tuning process is implied.

I have a 500km old wideband O2 sensor installed which tells me AFRs are fine Confirmed by a second dyno sheet from the 158kW run which shows identical AFRs throughout the rev range to the 205kW run a year ago. 11.8 for the last few thousand RPM. Air/fuel filters are <5000kms old and plugs are <2000kms old. Cheers for the suggestions so far, i'm about to start pulling it apart.

I replaced the stock flappy pipe with a silicone one from the group buys on here some time ago. Boost holds above 10psi for the whole rev range (see dyno sheet).

Hey guys, Pictures (1000 words): http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/dynos.jpg Left is the current dyno sheet, right is a year ago. Words: I've recently run into this problem where my R33 will make good power to 4500rpm and then just runs out of puff completely. It's a stock RB25 running a stock turbo with the usual mods; intercooler, boost controller, e-manage ultimate, exhaust cam gear, turbo-back exhaust. No power mods were added or removed between those two dyno runs. The AFRs are fine, ignition timing seems fine, it makes the same power to 4500 which leads me to think compression is fine, the cat converter hasn't collapsed (visually the internals look fine) and i can't find any obvious exhaust restrictions. This leads me to the stock turbo which has started exhibiting a faint whine at all engine speeds (changes pitch with speed) but the thing still builds boost instantly and easily holds 10psi until redline (see dyno graph). From the dyno graph it seems like an airflow issue somewhere and i'm going to start pulling the car apart soon but just wondering if anyone has run into something like this and could save me some time.. The turbo is still my main suspect but i don't really know how to test this other than simple shaft play tests and having a physical look at the thing, short of taking it off and sending it to GCG or similar. Any comments appreciated. Cheers guys govich

Damn, factory injectors holding enough pressure for 275rwkw. Nice. I'd be nervous though.. Where's Mafia gone?

I'm feeding the wideband output from a TechEdge 3A2 unit into my e-manage ultimate for logging and all i had to do was set the AFRs at 0V and 5V in the e-manage. Luckily it assumes a linear scale, the same as the 3A2 output - see wbo2 website for the scale, for this model it's linear from 0V at 9:1 AFR to 5V at 19:1 AFR. edit: as Guilt-Toy said above basically. http://www.wbo2.com/3b1/im/afrlin.gif

Well if that's all it takes for an argument to have substance then i have a question for you too. Do you know how many RB25s i've seen running stock injectors at raised base pressure with no problems? Do you see my point yet?

I never claimed to be an expert. Discussing this with you seems pointless since you have nothing of substance to argue with. Everyone please continue to buy 740cc injectors, it's the easiest advice to give. OP, apologies for clogging the thread up.

Everyone seems to bump their stock turbos up from 7psi to 12+psi without a second thought as to how their 15 year old stock injectors are going to cope with the extra 5+psi of pressure. Yet when the evil acronym FPR and raising rail pressure by another 5psi is mentioned, watch out! It's unanimous! The injectors are going to leak! Engine failure! Blown internals! Perhaps if it was based on experience or fact, anything other than rubbish like "I wonder how long they'd last with even a 20% pressure increase...." it might actually be useful advice. Mafia, you really got me there. I was obviously, throughout all of my posts, suggesting running the stock fuel system at 80psi. What a joke. Feel free to exaggerate and ridicule everything i've said here too.

No but if they're in good condition you will be able to bump it slightly to flow enough for 220-230 wheel kW as i said before.

The point of running a higher base pressure is to create a bigger pressure difference between the fuel lines and intake stream, and it can be adjusted so that the injectors don't have to be used at 100% duty cycle to inject the desired amount of fuel. That is, you use the FPR so you don't have to 'max out' your 15 year old stock injectors.

Do you understand what adjustable FPRs are used to achieve? What higher fuel pressure means for injector flow?

Technically it should be capable of any level of power if it can physically flow enough at the stock pressure. I don't understand why so many people are against adjustable FPRs. As far as i can tell everyone reads the opinion of one or two who have had bad experiences without actually understanding how a fuel delivery system works or how an adjustable FPR affects it. (this isn't targeted at anyone in particular, just a general thing i've noticed) For 220-230 wheel kW, bumping the pressure up slightly will be enough with the stock injectors, as long as your fuel pump can flow enough at the higher pressure. As said previously the tune will need attention since the injectors will flow more fuel throughout the rev range. To the OP, answering The Mafia's questions is the only way you're going to get anything other than speculation. Why?

In the linked thread they're talking about a single turbo with a twin-scroll turbine housing, not twin turbos. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c266/tri...ivideValve1.jpg

Buy a v8 commodore if you want to go fast in a straight line cheaply. That's all anyone cares about in those things so the aftermarket has got it sussed. Research before spending 10+k on mods FTW

Blitz cooler on R33 with the front bar off http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/P1040192.jpg Note you don't have to cut apart the front of the car, but airflow to some of the cooler is blocked.

Nope. My bad

A grain of sand can be twice as big as another grain of sand or a planet can be twice as big as another planet, it's still twice as big. GT35 0.86A/R housing is bigger than GT30 0.86A/R housing..

Think of the manifold being really efficient at directing air to the turbine rather than being unable to flow air to the gate. Put a china manifold on and it'll hold boost but spool a fair bit later because the airflow is all over the place. The pressure inside the 6boost manifold will be lower, as the air is flowing smoothly and not 'bunching up', meaning the pressure difference between manifold and atmospheric will be lower than the cheaper manifolds, which makes boost control design important. Extending the path to the wastegate, as you did first, placed more of a restriction there and made things worse. The extra half litre of displacement will, all else constant, increase airflow, again making things worse. Holding 1 bar pressure while openly exposed to atmospheric is pretty impressive, the gas velocity would be up there.

Look at torque down low rather than power. 400Nm at 3000rpm is 126kW. 400Nm at 6500rpm is 272kW. 126kW doesn't sound as impressive but the torque output of the motor is the same..expecting heaps of power down low is unrealistic from a 2.5, but i bet the GTRS-equipped RB25s make useful torque way lower than the GT35.