Spammeoff

Match in the tank time.

And while we're on it... putting car in neutral while coasting isn't a good idea, idling requires more fuel than an overrun situation (I doubt SK could turn off his injectors while idling right?). And also, good work! I've been shocked at the pitiful range on the fuel light the Stagea has compared to other japs, caught me out when I first bought it. Oh, and to really measure fuel consumption accurately, you wanna full tank to brim, drive til about empty with tripometer recording, refill to brim, and however many litres that fill required vs the K's you've just done is your economy. But then maybe you were just looking specifically for max k's outta one tank, hence you should have run it dry for us!!! ahahaha

Then they could be talking about lack of closed loop control giving you poor cruise/idle fuel economy(due to stuffed O2). Generally in a full tune, they would input fuel values for all conditions that were close to ideal, so you shouldn't get shocking fuel economy after a good tune, even without closed loop control. I don't get heaps better than that myself (used 16L to do 71km's around town the other day, but prob too much boosting). But anyway, I thought mine was too rich, and thought factory O2 was stuffed. Last night I put my LC-1 Wideband O2 sensor on it and went for a drive, 14.5:1 under all idle and cruise conditions! That surprised me, thought it'd be far worse. Would be very much to your advantage if you could borrow/buy an Innovate Motorsports LM-1/LC-1 and analyse your mixtures, then you'd know before/after, and not have to put all trust in what the workshop tells you. Not too mention you'd then have crucial gear for tuning your ecu yourself if you ever wanted to. I reluctantly paid $400 (NZ) for mine(and display it on my old laptop), but now I love it and can't imagine not buying it, I'd have no idea what my cars are doing! Bottomline, it's hard to diagnose fuel troubles, especially with an aftermarket ecu, without some kind of AF reading gear.

Depends on what fuel issues you were complaining about, all the tuning under load they'd have used their Wideband O2 for, and your factory narrowband isn't part of the equation. But if your mixtures are wrong under light load and idle, and the Power FC is setup to use closed loop with the factory narrowband, then a stuffed one would be a problem yep. How do you mean you've got fuel issues?

I thought that the general idea was that the Skyline/Stagea motors were the same in all these major aspects, whereas what you've seen here indicates what I'd call a pretty big difference. Shows you shouldn't make assumptions on these things, Nissan seem to be willing to customise their engines for various cars in quite major ways looking at that manifold difference! And obviously consider the Skyline somewhat more performance orientated, not that its a surprise I guess..

They are a big upgrade over SAFC or other basic Interceptors. See the E-man-Ult reads the AFM signal, but doesn't alter it. It splices into the Injector wiring, and leans/richens by changing Inj Pulse-width itself, instead of tricking the factory ECU. The factory ECU can't tell anythings odd, as RPM, AFM, TPS all line-up fine, so it just runs as normal (no fuel cuts, or too much ignition advance/retard). The E-man-Ult does the same trick with your ignition timing. Its got most of the power of a wire-in standalone ECU, but keeps other factory ECU functions you need, like shift-logic on an auto for example. And it doesn't need a hand-controller to program, it has a USB connection for your laptop yeehaaa! Writings on the wall for tricky new vehicles and standalone systems, hence chipping late evo's etc being so popular, and when you wanna tune it yourself, an E-man-Ult for this sorta price is a lot of tuneability for not too much $$. Or so I think

If your willing to spend $1k or so a Greddy E-manage Ultimate can do the job. You need to know a little about which harnesses to buy, so ask a dealer in your area, or have a read here: http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/#E-manage%20Ultimate:

Just built the DFA, and all working well. Only one hiccup... if your changing voltage at an input load, say you hold down the 'double-up' button, after a couple of secs of holding it, it jumps to +128, which is fine. But if I then hold the 'double-down' button, it starts decreasing, but then jumps back to +128, like if I'd been holding the up button. Anyone else seen this?? Hardly seems likely to be building fault to me, maybe PIC fault. Means to decrease I have to keep tapping button, holding it down makes it jump to +128 every time!

Do you guys often find that many posts, even recent ones, that were supposed to contain pics just say 'user posted image' with no picture?? I do, and its pretty annoying. Is this from some photo hosting sites dropping your pics after a week or something?? I use www.imageshack.us and I couldn't see how other sites could be faster or easier, and I've never had a pic disappear....... >:-|

Hey Tangles, how have you attached your boost gauge up there? I wouldn't mind doing the same!

I think a boost gauge needs to be within line-of-sight of tacho (and maybe road) its the kinda gauge you wanna watch relative to rpm. A nice pillar mount would be good, but I wouldn't wanna drill holes in my A-pillar, a pod stuck with adhesive might be good. Or a steering column pod would be even better for a small gauge, has anyone seen these? Would R33 one fit? (If they are produced?)

1997 25T RS Four V (Series I), Silver, Leather Seats (non-heated), Twin Sunroofs, Tweeters in A-pillars, IEBC Installed at 7psi, all std otherwise. Nismo LM GT2 18" Wheels. Tryin on some EVO7 wheels in this shot, decided it had to be the Nismo's!

Sounds like some good work, you know we're dying to see pics!!

It'd work, but of course you'd get richer running across all loads and revs which is a bit of a compromise. For the cost of a adjustable fuel regulator you can pretty much buy the Jaycar digital fuel adjuster and hand controller and get lots of adjustment, and just where you need it. Although with standard boost, and premium fuel, I'd have thought 12.5:1 would be a good ratio? Maybe not on a 30deg day I guess.

According to this: http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/s...a/2000_6/21829/ The S2 Auto and Manual both have 280ps, which doesn't surprise me too much. I was under the impression Stagea rb25det runs a little less boost that R33 versions. Like 6-7psi Stagea, 8psi Skyline. Although that would imply different ECU maps, otherwise, based on Stagea AF's, the Skyline would be too rich.