mad082

an oval muffler will flow just as good as a cannon, it will just reduce the noise more,

if the pivot bolt is damaged in anyway then the next time you press the clutch pedal may be the last before it gives out and you lose all use of the clutch. when mine broke i pushed the clutch in and it felt funny, so i let it up and did it again. it still felt funny. i let my foot up and the pedal got nearly all the way back out before it shot to the floor. i could pull it back up by hand but the clutch didn't work.

it almost sounds like the pfc is reading the voltage wire and not the feedback wire. the ecu sends a voltage to a heater in the sensor to make it warm (and therefore more functional) when you first start the car and then once they heat up the voltage is dropped. almost sounds like that is what it's reading, however i thought that the voltage it sent was 12v, but then i've never really tested it.

my sister has an 06 corolla and it's an auto and i'm pleasantly suprised with how well it goes. my mother has a 2000 model corolla manual and it's a nice car as well. i prefer the missus SSS to drive than both of them though. ride is much better, as are the seats, as is the performance.

there are different sorts of injection though. there is single point injection (basically a fancy carby) and multipoint injection. but yes, skylines as with most cars made after about 1990 use multipoint (sequential) injection.

ran the second one on e10 with no problems. as far as fuel economy goes, depends on how you drive. when i went to the drags (about a 550km round trip) i averaged under 10L/100kms (was about 9.4 i think). could get about 8.9 on trips if i drive sensibly and sat on the speed limit. even just 5km/h over on the highway would bump it up a bit. round town was a different story. if i took it sensibly then it was usually mid 12's to low 13's, if i fanged it then it was in the 15's to 16's. i should point out though that most of my driving is short trips (generally all less than 5kms), so even driving like a grandma i'll still get worse economy than someone who drives further because by the time i get to where i'm going the car is only just starting to come off cold start enrichment. as for the spark plugs, the rears are platinums or idiriums and generally only need to be changed at the 100,000km service or something like that (might be 50,000kms, can't remember). the plenum isn't that hard to take off to do the rear plugs. i was able to take the plenum off and change both rocker cover gaskets in under 3 hours, which involved a bit of dicking around. i think that just to do the plugs would probably only take an hour, probably less. for oil you can use whatever you want really. i think the recommended oil weight is similar to that of a skyline (and most other modern cars) of 7.5w30. so you can use 5w30 or 10w40 or anything like that.

'copper' spark plugs generally have a nickel electrode tip with a copper core (or something like that)

r34 gt with a rb25 in it will be faster than the 32, more reliable than the 32 (the 32's are getting on a bit now), more comfortable than the 32. only downside is that it will be more expensive to buy than the 32.

i got a 2.5" oval muffler from my local exhaust shop for $120 including fitting. as for getting the muffler altered, yes they could flare out the pipe to make it bigger, but i bet the internal diameter is still only about 2" so it would be a restriction. a stock muffler would probably flow better

and don't get a turbosmart one. i know plenty of people who have had issues with them not holding boost, or not releasing boost (resulting in the wastegate staying open and you have no boost when you accelerate again)

if it squeaks when you push the pedal in then it could be 1 of 2 issues. 1 is the bracket where the pedal mounts under they dash. the other is the pivot bolt inside the gearbox. the first issue is the easiest to check and fix. the second is relatively easy to check, but much harder to fix as the gearbox has to come out

turbotech manual boost controller. a fraction of the price of the electronic ones and will work pretty much as good, just doesn't have the wank factor of electronic ones, and then you can put the few hundred dollars you saved into something that will result in you having more power than if you had gone the electronic controller.

all your mate's mate is actually going to do is just the power run as that is all you can do with the stock ecu other than maybe playing with the base timing a bit. i strongly suggest that you get as much info about the cam as possible before you go ahead and post it on here to get the opinions of the people on here who know about this sort of thing as it sounds like your mate doesn't, considering that he said you'd get 40kw from it.

i've driven a few skylines from stock r33s to 33's with a bigger turbo and a 32 with a bigger turbo. the 32 with a bigger turbo was putting out similar peak power to my stock turbo'd 33 (with raised boost, cooler and exhaust), yet the skyline felt much better to drive because it was making full boost by well under 3000rpm while the 20 wasn't until about 4500rpm. the 20 felt fast while it was on boost, but that may have just been because of how slow it felt off boost. the 20 feels good if you drive everywhere and keep it above 5000rpm, but to drive along normally and then punch it the 25 feels much nicer, and to get the same effect in the 20 you have to start dropping back gears. i live in a hilly area and just for general driving around the 25 was much nicer. less having to drop it back gears once you get to some of the hilly areas where the speed limit just wasn't very suited for the 20. it was either having it sort of screaming in 1 gear or having it bogged down in the next. the 25 you could just stay in the higher gear and it would still just go along nicely (although it has to be said that a big aussie 6 or 8 felt much better than either of them) my mate has a 25 in his ceffy and his brother is the one with the 20 in his 32 (both putting out about 200kw) and they went to a track for a drifting event and in the 32 you had to enter one of the corners about 20kmh slower because you had to use second gear as it wasn't high enough in the revs when in 3rd gear to keep the slide going. with the 25 you could go into the corner in 3rd and it didn't matter much if the revs dropped a bit as it had the torque to spin back up. they had a go of each others car, as well as another mates s13 and they all agreed that the 20 was the worst of the lot due to the lack of low down power.

we were never promised the GTR, only the US was. according to ebgames.com.au which is where franga got the pic and info from above (post 373) we are getting the mercedes. but it is still a few months away so who knows what model we are actually going to get. i think we may find out more later this month after the europe games convention. i'm going to get the australia collectors edition because it's only going to be $12 more than the base version and it comes with a little book to help with tuning of the cars and a few bonus cars. and besides it's only $12 more. i wouldn't be suprised if they have done the collectors edition like they have because it will be bundled with a console

just get one from the US

i'm just going to go the collectors edition. it's only $130, so not much more than the normal one

game looks good, but i have to say, what a bunch of mega nerds watching the clip. i had to turn the sound down because their lame cheering was pissing me off.

BKR6EIX-11 or something like that

someone who likes picking up jailbait.....?

i'm guessing he paid the money to the person out of good will thinking that the seller would be honest and pay it straight off. as for protection for the buyer, unless he got the seller to sign the reciept saying that the car was encumbered and that the seller would pay off the loan then there isn't much he can do. he would have to take the guy to court if the car was reposessed, and that would be a while after the car was repo'd so he'd be out of pocket for a while, and he may not even get any money back.

with overnight parts from japan........

it might not be exactly dead centre at 15 degrees. you are best to get a cheap timing light and check it. as for the ecu learning, they don't learn that much, so if you have it pinging away it will eventually cause damage (even though the stock ecu will retard the timing if it detects pinging). also to correctly set the timing you need to put the car in base idle mode so that the timing is locked at 15 degrees otherwise it can be out by 1 or 2 degrees at idle depending on air temp, engine temp, any issues with the IAC, etc. to put it in base idle mode either use a consult cable, or warm the car up fully and then turn the car off, unplug the TPS and start the car again.

yeah i saw that but that sort of thing never really interests me because it's always based off how well you can do when racing on the game determines who gets to go to the next round, so some nerd who has a cockpit setup who spends 10 hours a day will beat me even though they may have never driven a car in real life and would suck at the practical events.

i'm not too sure about the sizing, but you have to remember that the length of the trailer compared to the car isn't as important as the length of the trailer compared to the wheelbase of the car. the sizing they are talking about would be the size of the deck the car sits on. usually you have the front bar hanging off the front of the deck a bit (depending on design and how low the car is) because you want more weight over the drawbar than you do over the back of the trailer as they tow better that way. it doesn't matter much of the back of the car hangs out past the back of the trailer (unless it doesn't have removable ramps, but even then they usually sit at an angle). i'd say though that a 14' trailer would prbably be fine.