mad082

nah, it wasn't interbike or anything like that where you get to see prototypes, etc. just the new stock. were a few cool things though. 30 speed mtb (new shimano dyna-sys or whatever it's called), full carbon road bike with carbon wheels. dual suspension cross country mtb with half carbon/half alloy frame. tandem road bike.

yeah it's fine. the hole left by the nail will be a weak spot where rocks, etc can get into the tyre a bit easier and cause future punctures though. if you are worried about this then spimple put a patch on the inside of the tyre where the hole is. so went to the apollo show on the weekend. they have really upped the quality this year while keeping prices pretty much the same.

i sent a link of the pic to cherie and she just went "oooooooo that's pretty...... buy me that bike"

yeah why bother paying a small amount for a wheel alignment when you can leave it out of alignment and just replace tyres twice as often due to uneven wear........

i found some pics on the apollo facebook page of the 2011 range (only a few pics) and cherie has fallen in love with this bike, so looks like i will be ordering one at the show tomoro. don't know a price yet, but looks to be an entry level ladies road bike, so probably be around the $1000 mark

yeah as jonboy explained. only the BNR32 is actually the GTR. all the different codes represent different models in the r32 range.

any car will do that. it's physics. even a F1 car will understeer if you go into a corner too fast. fwd cars can be prone to lift off oversteer, but so can rwd cars. any half powerful rwd car will slide the tail out if you boot it mid corner as well, whether it be a skyline or a commodore. but a stock turbo skyline isn't exactly anything be scared of. even up around 200kw they are still pretty ordinary and unless it's wet or you have really crappy tyres, booting it round a corner in 2nd gear or higher isn't going to end badly unless you boot it then really start swinging on the wheel to try and get the back to kick out.

and what sort of price was it?

you use wd40 as a cleaner? umm, why not use degreaser or something like that which is actually designed to remove grease?

read the side of the tyre and see what it says. it could be anywhere up to 100psi, but it depends on the quality of the tyre. better tyres will take higher pressures. generally a lower quality tyre will take up to about 65psi. and yeah 2009 stuff is cheap now because the 2011 stuff will be out in a few weeks. also if it isn't rolling that well then there are 2 other things to check. 1: chain tension. often from the factory the chain will be done up a touch too tight and this can be enough to put a touch more pressure on the bearings and slow things down a bit. 2: the cones in the wheel are a touch tight. again a common factory thing. to check this remove the wheel and spin the axle with your fingers. it should spin easily but not have any play in it. and dan, i already know how that works.

so i have spent the last 45 mins pulling a magnetic trainer apart to see how it works. don't worry kenny it wasn't yours, lol. i had 1 dropped in to be fixed (it's a rim drive one and needs a new belt), so i thought that while i was at it i would find out exactly how they work. fkn interesting stuff. took my a while to figure out. on 1 side there is a solid ring that is a magnet. on the other side 6 smaller magnets. if you touch a piece of metal to anywhere on either of the magnets it will attract the metal, however if you get another magnet, as you go along you will feel the magnet get pulled then pushed away, even on the magnet that is 1 piece and round. so basically how it works is there is an aluminium plate that spins between the 2 magnets. now aluminium isn't magnetic, but when the resistance is on low the magnets are attracting towards each other and the plate spins easily. as you turn the resistance up the magnets start to oppose each other and obviously this magnetic field causes a resistance that makes it harder for the plate to spin. i don't know enough about magnets to explain it properly, but that is how i think it works, and as far as the 2 magnets attracting and opposing each other, that is know for a fact, because if i open the unit with the resistance at hard it pops open when i undo the screws, but when the resistance is easy i have to pull a bit to get it open. ok, just did a quick bit of research. i was right about the magnetic for slowing it down. it's called an eddy current. it's also used on rollercoasters and trains. it's a frictionless brake

yeah the needle is good for moving the ball inside to get the jet shooting in a good spot

you also have to remember that all money from fines goes into all the safety campaigns. so if they were to introduce any government funded or subsidized advanced driver programs, the funding would be coming from the revenue raised from speed cameras.

yeah +1 for the cooler. either air/air or water/air. it will give you more power and reducing the chances of pinging. you will be able to run more boost and more timing.

yeah that's what gets me. if all the numbers were good enough to not show any irregularities during a rego check, how did it then get found to be stolen once you owned it? obviously there was a number somewhere on the car that didn't match the others.

generally speaking the cars speedo will read about 3 or 4km under (have to be made that way by law), provided you have the correct tyre size, etc, so you can generally sit dead on the limit with no worries at all. as for creeping up to 110 while doing 100, i think it's one of those things. some people can sit on the limit better than others. i generally don't have much issue with creeping over the limit because i just seem to get used to the sound of the car at that speed so you can tell without looking at the speedo whether you are over or not. one day i was driving along and realised that i had taken off from an intersection and accelerated up to 60kmh and was sitting on 60 without having looked at the speedo. you just get used to how the car sounds and how fast the scenery goes past at certain speeds. however when i go down the coast where they have a lot more 50 and 70kmh zones then i have to pay a bit more attention to the speedo.

i'd probably look at putting a small amount of oil into each cylinder as well. actually i remember reading about stuff you use on outboards before storing them. don't remember too much about it though. outboards are often stored over winter, so might be worth going to see a boat place. also look for something you can put on rubber seals to stop them drying out and cracking.

best bet is to take it to a suspension place and get them to check the alignment. that will show if something is bent (which it more than likely is) squeal may be a wheel bearing that got damaged in the impact

oh i totally agree with the notion that driver error causes more crashes than speed alone (although in the case of younger drivers speed is often the main factor as they have lost control of the car due to excess speed), however the argument of getting rid of speed cameras is a stupid one. to be honest, i think that there aren't enough speed cameras around to effectively stop speeding. they are so few and far between that people get used to being able to speed. if every single road had speed cameras at regular intervals then there would be very little speeding as people would know that if they do speed they will definately get caught. this would then also reduce the amount of road rage a bit too because you wouldn't get the idiots who like to do 10kmh over the limit and get frustrated at the people who sit on the speed limit and then do stupid things to try and over take them.

won't do a thing here as america's laws are totally different to ours. i have actually seen a bit about this on tv. there are american politicians that are against the speed cameras because they claim them to be an invasion of privacy. one of the senators supporting the move is a dead set looney. i saw an interview with him on tv. he pretty much said that it was an invasion of privacy to get fined for breaking the law if you were caught by a camera, but if a police officer pulls you over for speeding it isn't an invasion of privacy. you do realise that you can get fined for having your arm out the window? yes they buy them with taxpayers money, and then taxpayers breaking the law pay fines which then pay off the cost of the camera. and what is the problem that speed cameras cause? you can't break the law without getting a fine? is that the problem they cause? and while i will admit i have sped in the past and will speed in the future, i know full well that if i do and i get caught then i have no-one to blame but myself and i did so willingly. none of this bullshit of trying to pass the blame on to someone else or taking it out on the cops because they shouldn't be out there stopping people who break the law. some people have no respect for the road rules and get extremely upset when they get caught breaking the law.

by the sounds of it, if you did a check based on the rego details then the VIN number would've had to have been different on the info to the one on the actual car. that would be the only way that a check would've shown that the car was fine (rego number wasn't stolen, but vin number was). also don't expect to keep the car without having to pay more money. i know of a few incidents that have ended badly for the buyer of the car. 1 is a guy who bought a car that had been stolen from a car yard by an employee. he then was selling it as unregisterable but after looking at all the paperwork the guy thought that it seemed as though it would be registerable. went to register it, found out that all the numbers on the car had been duplicated and there was a car down in nsw with all the same numbers, car got impounded, went to court and is currently paying off the car to the car yard, as well as his loan for buying the car off the dodgy guy. another one is a guy who bought a car that had had 3 other owners in the past 6 or 8 weeks. first owner had payed for it with a dodgy check and had taken it straight to the auctions to sell (had no intention of keeping it). next guy bought it from the auctions cheap, could've done a vehicle check and it would've been clean as he bought it before the check bounced. he bought it to sell and make a profit. he sold it in about a week. next guy bought it, got pulled over for an RBT and was told that the car was under investigation in a fraud case. he then sold the car cause he didn't want anything to do with it. next guy bought it, had it for a few weeks before it got impounded until it went to court. court found in favour of the original owner and he got the car back but did a deal with the latest owner to sell the car to him cheap. so in the end the last owner was out of pocket an extra few thousand dollars. i also have a feeling that all the revs checks came up clean on this car, because the car wasn't technically classed as stolen. either way, after hearing all these stories it's made me much more wary when buying cars. if i was buying another car i would do a revs check but also take all the numbers to the police station to get it checked through their system before buying.

yeah zebra is right. the timing gets altered as a result of trying to alter the AFR. this means that if you don't know what you are doing you could end up with a nice AFR but have the car pinging its arse off

+1.

s1.5 has a clear garnish, but they often get painted

once the tank gets below 1/4 it will also move around a lot depending on what sort of slope you are driving on. if you are on flat ground they will be accurate, but if you start driving up and down hills or even on flat ground where the road has a bit of camber to it then the gauge will start to read a bit out. if it is fluctuation while on relatively flat ground then it will be an issue with the sender or the gauge.