mad082

i'd just stick with the stock one. again, this is what tuning does. by putting in the bigger injectors you allow more fuel in, so you don't need to adjust the fuel pressure to do that.

you pretty much have all you are going to need for that turbo. no real point building the motor as you shouldn't have any issues running that turbo on the stock internals. also no point getting a fuel pressure reg. thos injectors may be a touch of overkill though. 750cc ones would probably be a bit better (bigger injectors sometimes make the car harder to tune a steady idle). but you pretty much have everything you need. you have the intake sorted, you have the exhaust sorted, you have the clutch sorted, you have the turbo sorted, ecu sorted and fuel sorted. probably only other thing i would suggest is getting a fuel pump put in at the same timeas, or before, the tune is done. oh and a boost controller to wind the boost up. no point having bigger injectors if the fuel pump can't supply enough fuel once you wind the boost up. oh and you didn't mention a boost controller. get one and then screw the boost up to about 18psi and you should see 250kw easily (so about a 50-70kw increase on what you currently have)

be funny if the cops come to reposes the car because it was fraudulently obtained.

probably shows up in the police database when they run a rego check on the car. my grandparents got pulled over because the car was registered in my grandfathers name and he no longer has a valid licence (handed his licence in a few years ago due to developing a condition that eventually sends you blind). the police pulled them over to do a licence check and they explained it. funny story though, just as the police officer starts to walk back to the car my grandfather says in a loud voice to my grandmother "good thing they didn't get you blow in the bag". the officer did a quick turn and walked back to the window.

my point is more that getting an old rb engine to meet current emissions may possibly knock a noticable amount of power out of it (without redesigning, which may then give it more power than it originally had). the reason why a lot of the old engines stopped being produced was because getting them to meet the new emissions laws was going to be hard, so instead they just engineered new engines.

i was going to say the same thing, but the only 2 issues with the current ford motors is the cast iron bottom end, so lots of weight, and the physical size of the motor (height and length). but they make easy power and have a buttload of torque, so would be fun in a car a few hundred kgs less than a falcon. wheelspin might become something of an issue though, LOL.

to answer the OP's questions of "What do ya think? Good car for an L plater", for 5 grand i wonder what's wrong with it, and no i don't think it's a good car for an L plater. and as was said above, just leave the stock bov on there. don't rice ti up with an atmo bov. if you want to hear the stock bov more then put a higher flowing air filter on it.

andrew, sounds like the contact for the switch in the gearbox is a bit dodgy.

also when putting the turbo on, before connecting up the oil return line, disconnect the injector loom and coil pack loom and turn the car over until oil comes out of the turbo. then connect up the oil return line. this way you know that it is going to get oilflow

isn't the flywheel power calculated by doing the power run and then letting the engine run back down (rather than applying the brakes to slow it down or pushing the clutch in)? this allows it to measure the resistance of the gearbox, etc and then work out the loss. i'm not totally sure, but i thought that this was 1 way of calculating it on a dyno. i know that true engine power can only be found on an engine dyno, but i thought that the calculated power could be worked out, and i am assuming that this is what has been done in this case.

the stock turbo can deliver 15psi and higher at high rpm. there may be other factors causing the pressure to drop. it may be the boost controller, it may be the intercooler is restrictive, it may be the exhaust is restrictive, it may be the intake pipe sucking closed a bit. there are many variables. whatever the cause is, if you disconnect the vaccum line to the wastegate so it runs unlimited boost, you will find that the boost very quickly goes off the gauge and will stay there all the way through the rev range. that is the point here. if allowed to run unlimited boost the turbo won't simply get to 15psi and max out and not go any higher. the boost pressure will easily get to 20 or 30 psi on the stock turbo, and while the pressure may drop as it moves higher into the rev range, it will still be stupidly high at redline.

i think you will find that those places who say that they "can't do it" simply don't want to, as it is probably a pain of a job and if something goes wrong then your car will more than likely be a write off. also the fact that you aren't buying the sunroof off them will make them less inclined to say yes. this may also be why they say that they can't do it. their sunroof kits may come with a template of the exact size that needs to be cut out (or at least the measurements), so they simply mark it and cut it, and they don't actually have to calculate the size it needs to be, and i would guess that it needs to be pretty precise and the margin of error would be small. if you cut the hole too small you can make it bigger, but if you go too big to start with, you can't really fix that.

i've seen a wrx motor put into a combi. still used the combi gearbox, so was only rwd.

speedo accuracy has nothing to do with servicing. it is an electrical device (cable on the 32's though) and whether you service your car yourself or have a mechanic do it, you won't be altering the accuracy of the speedo. but yeah, tyre size can alter the speedo reading. generally this isn't an issue on cars, just 4wd's as the difference in car tyre size is usually only 1 or 2%. on a 4wd though it can be a massive difference. my brother in law's speedo on his patrol reads under by about 10 to 15kmh at 100kmh (says you are doing 100 when you are actually doing about 110/115kmh (can't remember which. this was going off the gps compared to the speedo)

you want to block it off at the turbo end. this way you can test to see if the leak is coming from the inlet manifold. if you have a boost controller you may want to remove it as some will leak if you pressurise it above the pressure it is set at. i know the turbotech ones will since they have a hole drilled in the side of them.

i should try and get the dyno sheet off my mate some time of when he ran his 33 on the dyno in back to back runs at 13psi and 16psi. from memory 16psi made 25hp more.

i don't like people throwing around the revenue from speed cameras issue as it is pointless. if you get caught by a fixed camera that you go past all the time then you are plain stupid and i hope you do it often enough to lose your licence for a while to get you off the roads. the best way to stop the use of speed camera's etc is to not speed. it's as simple as that. obey the road rules and you'll never have to worry about it and the governement won't be making money from it. as for speed cameras being a safety device, they are. if you know where one is then you won't speed there, and if you aren't speeding then someone makes a mistake resulting in you having to take evasive action, at the lower speed you will be able to stop sooner, steer around them without understeer easier, or if there is an impact, the force will be lower than if there was no camera and you were doing 5kmh over the limit.

either the engine in your SSS was shagged, had less mods than the s13 or you only had a n13 SSS, because from my experience, my SSS was putting out more power than my mates NA s13 (it had just a cat back while mine also had extractors) and the SSS was quicker on the road too. both were putting about the right power for the mods they had. if you were to then put an auto gearbox into the s13 it would've been a slug.

*sniff sniff* smells like sex in here

+1 for taking the lube to court. you're probably going to get fisted by the long arm of the law. if you get a nice judge you may possibly scrape out of it with a work licence (allowing you to only driving between certain hours), but i find it highly unlikely. my suggestion, look for accomodation close to work

i think that if you got an old gtr to meet all the emissions laws, same safety rating, etc of the new wrx, i think you'd find it would possibly be slower than it is now. i think that if you allowed the new wrx to be modified to the old standards, it would be noticably faster than the standard one, as well as an old gtr. it's all well and good to play the old "it has 20 years newer technology" card, but a lof of the technology is to make it less polluting and more fuel effecient. or for example, look at the new gtr. it is faster than the old gtr, but it has a bigger engine and a fancy gearbox. yes it is noticably faster round the ring than the older gtr (although there are still doubts over the time), as well as it's rival the 911, but at what cost? it has to be serviced every time you leave the garage and if you use half of the features that nissan fitted it with your warranty isn't worth the paper it's written on. i'm sure that any manufacturer could build a brouchure spec car (a car that performs good on paper and in reviews but is a pain to actually own), but very few of them do. they sacrfice a bit of speed for ease of use.

the awd's are good off the line, but a bit heavier than the fwd ones so are a bit slower up top. i have owned 2 manual 3.5L v6 magnas and they were both good cars. the first made 170hp with exhaust and extractors. the second never went on a dyno, but ran a 14.8 at willowbank with just a cat back exhaust. neither were the vrx models which have about 15kw more and they will run mid 14's, despite being hard to get off the line due to having plenty of torque. the autos are a bit of a slug though (run mid to high 15's), especially the 4 speed ones, as the gear ratios are stupidly tall. they will cross the line still in second gear (get about 155kmh out of second)

forget the idea. by the time you then buy the gearbox from a turbo car, bolt it all in, etc, you will have spent more than selling your car and buying a turbo version, and the turbo version will have better brakes, lsd (if yours doesn't have one). for what you sell your car for, then buy a turbo version, you could probably mod it up to having more power than the rb26 does.

depends on whether you are talking about an auto or manual commodore/falcon. i just compare them to the autos because 90% of them on the road at auto. a manual commodore or falcon will be quicker (and a manual 3.5L magna will be even quicker again, depending on what model falcon or commodore you are talking about). another comparison, the missus SSS pulsar with full exhaust will beat auto commodores and is noticably quicker than an auto 33. .

have you tried bunnings? i've seen some in the bunnings at maroochydore, so i would assume ones in brissy would do it too. don't know how thin it went though. might've only been 3mm. otherwise i think some glass places do it.