mad082

from memory the sr20 coils are much longer than the rb ones, so as status said, i don't think they are going to come close to fitting. i think they will be about an inch too short. all the RB motor ones are short stubby little things.

pretty sure it was about 20kw at the wheels. (was over a year ago now, so memory is getting a bit dodgy). but it was certainly up around there somewhere.

put the pulsar on my mates dyno last night. made about 82kw, about 2kw down on what it made on a different dyno about 6 years ago. plenty of power left in it though. AFR's are mid 11's. now to convince the missus to let me put a nistune on it.....

not exactly. the possible volume of air doubles (free air delivery). once you put them into an enclosed system such as they are on an engine, and have the boost regulated by a wastegate measuring pressure (aka resistance), then you won't get double the airflow. your total airflow won't really change much because the things that are causing the restriction will still cause the same level of restriction whether you compress the air via 1 million mice blowing through straws or the worlds biggest turbo. there is a limit to how much extra air you can flow through the intake before you are going to hit the same restriction and i would guess that it isn't much more than with anything else. "but people make more power with bigger turbos at the same pressure" is a common reply to that line of thinking, and i understand that, but how much of that is down to the bigger compressor on the turbo and how much is down to the fact that the exhaust flow is much higher and there is much less restriction on the exhaust side of the turbo? i'd say that a fair bit is on the exhaust side and not that much has to do with the bigger compressor (not saying that it doesn't play any part in it, but just not as much as people think).

it can be done. it probably won't last very long but it can be done. most people will tell you that the stock turbo stops making power at about 13psi (because they read it on the internet so it must be true), but i can tell you that is wrong. i have seen it with my own eyes. stock turbo running 16psi made about 20kw more at 16psi than it did at 13psi in back to back runs. so even if you say that the dyno was reading high and ignore the total power figure it made, back to back runs with just enough time between runs to wind the boost up showed a 20kw gain where most people will say that it won't make any extra power or will lose power. also my tuner has a rb25 in his cerfiro and he is making between 210 and 215kw @12psi on the stock turbo. the reason why i say "between" is because he has had it on his dyno and another workshops dyno (before he got his dyno) and they were both within a few kw of each other.

he has a v35 350gt, so they have 206kw at the fly in stock natro form.

f**k you're stupid. you said that they were australias favourite family car. they aren't family cars. they are small cars. they are australias favourite small car. neither toyota nor the general population think of them as family cars. they might make up the most sales after falcons and commodores, but that doesn't mean they are a family car. if they were then toyota wouldn't bother making the camry and marketing it as a family car, and they would change their ad for the corolla to say "australia's favourite family car" instead of "australia's favourite small car".

not really. it isn't an engine that came in that car, so it would be just as much work to get it engineers

from memory, passenger side of the engine, right at the back of the block (but still on the side). should start with RB20

oh if i wipe the dipstick on a white rag even the dirtiest oil can still look like it has a yellow tinge to it. hell i change the oil in my mothers corolla on the weekend and it has done about 145,000kms and had done about 14,000kms on that lot of oil (was 4000kms overdue) and even the oil in it was only a medium brown when as for what RB stands for. it stands for..... nothing. it is just an engine code like SR, CA, VG, VH, VR, FJ, L, S, VQ, etc. they are just engine codes and you would have to ask the engineers at nissan what they actually mean, but it certainly doesn't mean race bred. that is just something that someone came up with and skyline fans took it to be gospel. i actually prefer to say that it stands for runs bearings, and that SR stands for shits rockers as that is a better description of common issues people have with them. i think it is pretty naive to think that nissan gave the initials of 1 engine a meaning but none of the other engines. it would also be pretty much the only engine on the market with a name that means something. none of the toyota engines have corresponding names. i'd nearly put money on the letter having something to do with the name of the person who designed the engine.

when the boost tee is opened yes it will create a boost leak, but this won't really affect the bov much. however it will also create a vaccum leak so that the bov sees less vaccum and doesn't open. this is pretty much exactly the same principle as the stock boost solenoid uses to raise the boost by 2psi, or in a very similar way to how a wastegate controls the boost level by redirecting exhaust flow around the exhaust wheel of the turbo

the j30 maxima run twin piston front calipers. it uses the DB1232 pads i posted the pic of. and the bendix website (where i got those pics from) has the r33 non turbo listed as DB1165 pads. but the pads are that close in size and shape it doesn't matter too much

scrap the safc. get a nistune. similar money but will give you much better results as you can actually adjust the timing which will actually help you get the boost to come on earlier. all using a safc will do is lean it out a bit and slightly bump up the timing (which is more of a side effect than an actual adjustment). there will be a few places in brissy that will do it, or if you were to drive up to gympie my mate runs a workshop with a dyno and can do it.

it would remove the vaccum from the bov as it will just suck in air rather than creating a vuccum and open the bov. however using a bleeder valve won't really allow enough air through to stop the vaccum opening the bov. and the cost of buying a second bleeder valve wouldn't be much different to the solenoid setup and then all you have to do is flick a switch and not sit there winding the valve.

just use a tape measure to measure up where the holes should be (so the wing is centred) and then just guess as to how far fowards it should be. or you could buy a boot with the wing already on it

i call them snails as well. squids, snails, hairdryers. all mean the same. squid is just because the turbine wheels look a bit like a spinning squid. and yeah a slab is the big bit of concrete you build a house or shed on, LOL..... oh you mean beer. yeah we call it that too.

every car i have ever owned or seen, including my mothers corolla which she bought brand new will turn the oil black once the engine is run in. sure a brand new engine that has had the oil changed once or twice might still have ok coloured oil after 5000kms, but you will find that once it is past that it will turn the oil black. all engines do it. it is a fact of life. if you go and check a car and the oil is still golden then it means that the oil is fresh, not that the engine is in super great condition.

that isn't that correct. if the car did a lot of driving in hilly areas or even just in traffic then the brakes will be much more worn than someone mostly doing highway/freeway driving. or if they recently had new bads installed and had the discs machined then there will be no lip on the rotor either. or the car may not have done many kms and the driver gave it a hard time or was simply someone who left slowing down until the last minute or rode the brakes a lot yet babied the engine then the brakes will be a false indicator.

it doesn't suprise me in the slightest. there is a real stigma about buy imports with over 100,000kms on them and everyone always tries to buy them with as low kms as possible, so there is probably a price difference in what the car could sell for of up to a few thousand dollars. it could've been changed for this reason, or it could've been changed simply because the old odometer broke. but the clock hasn't been wound back in the way that people used to do it. they simply would've bought another dash and stuck that in. take maybe 5 mins to do. i'd say it is more common with imports than any other cars.

i meant to add that there is a good chance that you do have the stock r33 non turbo brakes and not actually the maxima brakes. but the calipers are pretty much the same by the looks of things so no great drama either way.

do you happen to know the part number of the pads you got? and i was just looking on the bendix website and the brake pad size between the twin piston maxima pads and the twin piston non turbo r33 pads is only very small. and both the maxima pads and the non turbo r33 pads are bigger than those of the turbo skylines because of the less powerful caliper. here are pics of the maxima pad the r33 non turbo pad and the r33 turbo as well as r32, 33 and 34 gtr caliper (non brembo)

you should be able to push it open by hand, but it may take a little bit of force to do so. if you can push hard and it won't budge then there is something going on with it.

squids = turbos

good chance that it is going to be a coilpack issue.

are you going to have a big squid hanging off each bank? cause the rumble of a v8 plus the whine of a pair of hairdryers would really get peoples attention