mad082

ok barbarian, next time a music concert is cancelled i'll come and trash your business. what's that you say? you have nothing to do with concerts? oh well, stiff shit, you are still in the music industry so obviously have some distant connection to concerts so according to you that would make it fine for me to trash your business in protest to the concert being cancelled. there is a difference between "sticking it to the man" and "sticking it to some random individual/business who has nothing to do with it other than having a name association to someone who it turns out wasn't the person at fault to start with". i'm a small business owner who has had to deal with insurance companies in the past for claims, and it can be a pain in the arse. thankfully mine have only been for broken windows and minor stock theft, but it can still be a pain. and then there is the stress from getting a phonecall at some ungodly hour of the night from the security company saying the alarm has gone off, then rushing to the shop to find out that a window is smashed, having to wait around sometimes for hours, for the police crime squad to turn up and do all the fingerprinting, etc and then wait round for a glass company to come and board up the window, and then start your clean up.

if the electronic boost controller isn't part of the ecu then the ecu can not affect the boost in any way at all. however if you are getting to 5000rpm and the car is developing a missfire or just plain cutting out then i'm guessing that the ECU has reached a point in it's mapping where it is outside of what the parameters of the ecu are mapped for and it is shutting down. only solution is an aftermarket ecu that you can tune properly. also your air programmer sounds a bit...... dodgy. i am assuming it is to allow more air into the turbo without the AFM knowing about it, and is the reason why you need need the power commander. my suggestion to you would be to scrap both the air commander and the power commander and get an aftermarket ecu and a z32 AFM (unless you get an ecu that uses a map sensor) and stop using the BOV as a boost controller (leave that to the wastegate). then you can tune the car properly and won't have the issue that you seem to be having (providing that i understand what you are saying correctly).

what is an air programmer, turbo programmer and power commander? i'm guessing that the turbo programmer might be an electronic boost controller, but other than that i have no idea what you are talking about. if the blow off valve is opening up and releasing air then the pressure should drop not rise, and the car would run like crap due to it running rich.

may also be the cold start valve. they are a pain to get to. also try letting the fuel pump prime fully before trying to start the car and see if that changes things at all.

the riots and smashing up a business were just the perfect way to get more public support for off street events and a great advertisement to get people to sponsor events. i know that as a business owner i really want to be associated with these sort of single figure IQ people <end sarcasm> in all seriousness, if you are that upset about a car meet being cancelled i think it's time to take your mummy's titty out your mouth and grow the fuck up. out of all the ways to go about expressing dissapointment at the cancellation of an event, this was the worst possible way to go about it. it was never going to remain a peaceful protest as there are too many cavemen in the car scene. all that will happen now is that any big business and politicians who were previously sympathetic to the cause and willing to help are going to walk away and distance themselves from the car scene, and i wouldn't be suprised to see calls for more venues to be closed down rather than opening new ones. to the people who turned up to just to see what would happen, while you aren't directly in the wrong, your presence just encouraged more of these idiots to turn up as well as gave them a crowd to try to impress with their stupid antics. and to the idiots that did actually join in on the stupidity (not directing this at anyone here), well done in adding more fuel to the already well out of control fire. now the general community hates us even more and the politicians will be less willing to provide facilities as the general public won't support it.

i'm waiting till early next month and then i'm going to convince the missus to let me get a ps3 and ff13. it's only going to cost me about half price cause i have enough points on my credit card to get $350 worth od gift vouchers, so if i get this job i applied for then i won't have any trouble convincing her.

you suggestion of buying a front cut and cutting out the strut towers and welding them into the car is going to be the easiest way to do it. you can make up a template and cut the extact same size piece out to make things easier. this way anything that bolts to the piece you have cut out will still bolt back up in place.

all turbo sr20 motors come with steel wheel turbos unlike the ceramic exhaust wheel turbos the rb's have. the gtir runs a bigger turbo than the s13 cars (bush bearing t28 as far as i know), quad throttle bodies bigger injectors and a slightly better/stronger built engine and put out more power (an extra 18kw). motor wise they are generally good and don't really suffer from any problems that aren't common to the SR family. they do have a bit of a reputation for having dodgy gearboxes if they have had a hard life though, so that is about the only thing to look out for.

he said he put in a new radiator.

in FF10 he wasn't really a boss, just a person you would randomly encounter on the plains where you could ride a chocobo (although it was a slightly more rare occurance than the normal monsters), but i have a feeling he may have also been a semi boss in 1 section as well, where it didn't matter if you killed him or not, it just stopped you from getting some goodies.

i know the guy you are talking about. i used to fight him in ff10 with a weapon equiped where you gain experience points based off the damage recieved to your characters. by simply reviving members over and over you could earn tens of thousands of EX points per fight.

it also helps to open the air bleed valves. if you don't then you can get air in there which can weeks to come out. even just opening up the heater and running the car might still leave you with air bubbles which you might not know you have in there until you check the coolant 1 day and find it is low.

depends on the model. if it is the later Z32 model 300zx then it will be. if it is the earlier Z31 model 300zx then it won't be. Z32 is the 300ZX model number, just like how skylines have R33, etc

bahahaha

you having fun digging up old threads?

no it will be the opposite. it will be super expensive because there will be so little oil left that production is low, and also because so few cars will use it that production will be small scale so the oil companies will be able to charge what they like for it.

i've actually told a few kids who have come in saying shit like that to ask the question again in english, then proceeded to make fun of them saying that i'm not up with all the fully hektic wordz dat da peeps on da street use deze dayz. the kid didn't find it very funny but his mates were pissing themselves laughing, and he still bought stuff. and i have also used the line "nice <insert item here>, does it come in mens?" on some guys too. that's more one i use on the semi regulars though.

i could understand beating aussie 6's because of the fact that their diff ratios are so tall, but seriously, go up against other 4 cylinders (or people who can drive) and you'll find out just how slow it is. and being able to go from 0-60 fast isn't a sign of power, just a sign of short diff ratios and decent traction (something an rb20 doesn't have to worry about since it has bugger all torque). try launching an aussie 6 or 8 by revving it up and side stepping the clutch like you can in a low torque, high revving car and you'll find that it is suddenly hard to see due to all the smoke.

don't know about the getting booked for having a woodgrain steering wheel, but if the steering wheel is too small you can get booked for it.

i'd attempt to repress my rage, but more than likely i'd beat 9 shades of shit out of them with a dictionary

that's why i went with the scratch-x. it is actually a product designed for use on paint so it doesn't matter if it splatters or anything like that. i would just put the woolen buffing bad on the drill, put some scratch-x on the pad, smear it round on the light so it didn't just fly off, then pull the trigger on the drill. took about 5 or 6 seconds per light of actual buffing to get them clear. it would actually take me longer to get all the gear out

hellaflush sounds like a word used by people who also say words like bro, cuz, hektic, uleh, phat (with a ph not f), and either wear sports gear and their hat sideways, or are computer nerds trying to be cool. i was assuming though that with the context it was used in that it has something to do with the wheels, and not flushing a set of hella spotlights down the toilet

you should also wipe the wheels down with wax and grease remover (also called prepsol) then wipe it off with a second rag before you prime them.

thanks for a great laugh. i needed that.

was the au auto or manual? you can't compare manual to auto, but still, the stock times for the AU (non xr6) were low 16's for the autos. and the stock times for the EF/EL were pretty much the same. throw an exhaust on them and a set of tyres and you'll get well into the 15's. the xr6's are quicker. there are people with au xr6's into the 14's with CAI and exhaust.