mad082

big deal. i've had that for years, mixed in with a dose of chronic stress. everyone has problems. i bet my finacial situation is WAY worse than yours. EDIT: that sounded a bit more harsh than i intended. my main point being, while i am sorry you have depression, you aren't the only person to have problems. there is always someone worse off than you (and most of the time that person is me, LOL)

damn you beat me to it. i was going to add on to what you said but i think i will just bite my tongue.

7kw can easily be put down to motor variables, but could also be the front pipe as well. i didn't really notice any gain from putting mine on, but then i only put the dump pipe on there. the front pipe had been on there since before i bought the car (had a 3" front pipe and the rest of the exhaust was stock, LOL). it certainly isn't a "OMG that is so much more powerful" kind of mod.

but if you have only paid for half the car you only stand to lose half. then you make them pay you for losing your half of the car. but if it is in the case of your wife being the other name on the joint rego it isn't really an issue as much because you share things anyway, so if your wife loses her car you effectively lose a car. i would never go joint ownership on a car unless it was with the missus. going on with a friend or family member is only going to cause trouble.

your exhaust shouldn't break from extra boost, unless maybe it is made out of a wet paper bag. i would ask him what exactly he meant by your exhaust being too thin. and while turbo back exhausts might not add much to how fast you run over the 1/4, they do help as far as turbo life goes. having a larger pipe allows the hot exhaust gases to move away from the turbo quicker, thus reducing the chances of turbo failure

other thing you have to remember is that the LJ torana is still going to handle like a 30 year old car no matter whan you do, LOL. even though this thread is a month old i will still post up cause i'm bored. so you can visiually modify a civic for 6k, and are bodykits for 180sx's that much more expensive? i don't think so. with your 6k you could get a full kit, some wheels and the a full exhaust, fmic and boost controller

you do realise this is a thread from 2005........ but i have owned both and they are different cars. they are both about as fast as each other but totally different in how they deliver the power. 180 feels more sporty and power hits a bit harder. r33 has much more low down power so doesn't feel as fast as the power is there from the moment you open the throttle. the ride of the 33 is a bit smoother too. oh the the rb25 sounds better

because i'm bored and it's so easy (and fun) to get NA owners fired up because they have to justify what they drive so much to make up for what they are missing out on, LOL wow, you manage to find one video. but it's still slower than all the vrx's that run as low as 14.4 with just extractors and exhaust. i don't like the styling of the 32's because it is just too dated. r33 looks more modern, but each to their own. as for a modded NA being more reliable than a modded turbo, that is a bit of a laugh. a mate of mine used to have a NA 31 that was extremely modded (ok, so it was only a single cam rb30, but i think it was up there with being one of the fastest NA SOHC rb30 skylines in australia). it got down into the 13's (with the exhaust dropped off at the cat), but he went through i don't know how many motors. seemed to be that every time i was talking to him the motor was having to be rebuilt (and it had all the goodies, twin throttle bodies, rb26 oil pump, head work, strong bottom end, lumpy cams, 3" exhaust, locked diff, lightened flywheel, sticky tyres). where as to get a turbo into the 13's you can use the stock ecu and turbo and just need some half ok tyres. that is where the turbo becomes more reliable. to get a NA just to be as quick as a very mildly modded turbo takes a lot of work and is going to dramatically reduce engine life. and the fact that the turbo model comes with things like bigger brakes that then help you slow down not only from the higher speeds on the track, but if someone happens to pull out in front of you on the street. look i understand people on their p's can't drive the turbo model and that's fine. but for me the killer with NA models is the fact that they cost more than the turbo model. why bother paying that extra money for the NA one to start with? just buy a shitter for your first car while you are on your p's then when you are allowed to drive the turbo version then get one, especially if you have to take a loan out to buy your first car. the interest you pay makes it one expensive NA skyline. to be honest i don't care if you love your NA. good for you (not meaning that to sound patronising either). it just shits me when people do the following: 1) say that lancers with evo kits are stupid but NA skylines with gtr kits (or any other kit) are cool. it is exactly the same mod so if one is ricey, so is the other. 2) go on about how much better their NA skyline is than commodores, falcons etc. i have owned a late model commodore (VX), falcon, and 2 magnas (as well as a few other cars) and to be honest, the aussie made stuff aren't bad cars. they go respectably, plenty of low down punch so no need to rev the tits off them to go anywhere like the smaller engined cars, and they are very comfy to drive. if i had to buy a NA 6cyl car for everyday use it wouldn't be a skyline. it would be a commodore or falcon. sure they are common but i'm not an attention whore (if i had to pic between a beat up car that ran 12's and a stock blinged up skyline and wasn't allowed to mod it, i would pic the 12 second car everytime), and for everyday use the aussie made stuff do the job perfectly. and should something go wrong, they are extremely easy to get parts for and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

once you have answered the above, i would assume the filter on the 34 is in a similar place to the 33, and that is in the engine bay on the drivers side

he would be talking about the ceramic exhaust wheel on the turbo, which tend to fail when run at higher boost levels (although plenty have also failed at lower boost, so go figure). i have never heard of a ceramic exhaust. i have heard of ceramic coated exhaust though, and that is nothing to worry about running high boost through.

i think it isn't so much because it is lighter, but because it is more flexible. steel is rigid so it can just have a single latch in the centre, but fibreglass is more flexible and at speed once a corner started to lift it would just keep on lifting, because the higher it lifts the more force it gets lifting it. if you have ever paid attention on the v8 supercars when they lift the bonnet, it flexes all over the place because it has no frame underneath it.

a mate of mine got done by the hoon squad for cutting his reo. they just made him welded a piece onto the reo basically the same size as what he had cut off so it had the extra reinforcement

wow, your sports coupe can keep up with a family car. i bet you are proud, LOL. of course they put up a good fight with a smaller engine. commodores and falcons, etc are made to be family cars, so the engines are designed to be able to easily cope with having 5 adults in the car, plus luggage and not require you to have to floor it to be able to move. another thing that very few people take into account when talking about commodores and falcons being slow is their gear ratios. they have much taller gearing than skylines. if you were to change the diff ratio of a skyline to that of a commodore or falcon, you would find it much slower than it is standard. it would be able to go much faster (top speed) in each gear, but it's acceleration would be slower. or change the diff ratio in a commodore or a falcon to that of a skyline and you would find that they are much faster but would be hindered by the lower redline than the smaller motor. as for turbo models being less reliable than NA models, that is a load of shit. it has nothing to do with the car and more to do with the driver or the fact that it has been modded so much more than most NA skylines. if you get a turbo model and just put an exhaust on it and don't touch the boost then you shouldn't have any troubles with it. but no, people get them, increase the boost pressure on the stock turbo by 50% or more and of course things start to show their age or wear out quicker. most people are running about 11psi which is a 57% increase in pressure. and the fact that this is also now at lower rpm as it is no longer just 5psi before 4500rpm, you have over twice the boost pressure at low rpm. you go and carry round a few bags of cement all day everyday and see if you start getting sore knees, back, etc. it's the same thing. i had a turbo 33 for over a year and never had any issues that are exclusive to turbo models that don't come under general maintainance or weren't from running extra boost. i had to put new plugs in it cause the old ones were worn out (can happen on a NA) and i had an exhaust manifold stud break (had that happen on other NA cars i've owned in the past). i had the pivot bolt in the gearbox snap. that was due to it being installed incorrectly by the mechanic who put the heavy duty clutch in (NA cars wear clutches out too). i had to clean the AAC/IAC valves, but i've had to do the same on other cars before too. but nothing related to the turbo, etc ever gave me any issues and i used to give it a pretty hard time. was running 14psi through the stock turbo which as most people will tell you isn't the best thing to do for turbo life. so anyone that says that NA skylines are more reliable, it has little to do with the fact it is NA and more to do with the fact that people drive turbo cars much harder and usually have them modded much more than NA ones. buy a bog stock turbo and leave it that way and you have as much chance as something going wrong as a NA model.

i thought even the jap coolers required cutting of the reo, so some dicking around still involved. my hybrid took half a day (about 6 hours) to fit, but i was also putting a new front bar on at the same time which required the making of a new reo as the stock one was nowhere near close to fitting it. the actual cooler didn't take that long to fit. most of the time was spent pulling the bar off and dummy fitting the new bar and reo, then pulling it back off, altering it and trying it again, etc.

yeah i also ran 14/15psi for about a year without any issues. but you need an aftermarket ecu to go above about 12psi. and depending on how you drive, you might not want it that high anyway. especially if you want decent fuel economy. the higher boost you go, the worse your fuel economy gets

i used a hybrid one and had no issues with pressure drop or flow. it was tube and fin also.

yet they all rev out to redline in races before changing gears. maybe you should go have a chat to casey stoner and give him a bit of advice to help him win the moto GP. you are still going on with your same point you made earlier. it seems you still think that revving out past max torque is pointless. also if torque drops off too dramatically you will find that power also flattens off. you also might want to rethink what you said about the sports bikes. take the r6 for example. it's max torque is made at 10,000rpm, and max power at around 14,500rpm, yet redline isn't until over 16,000rpm, and when you change gears at redline you will only be dropping down to around 14,500rpm. and i can garantee that anyone who races bikes will be reving them out to redline and not changing down around 12,000rpm in order to be at max torque when they open the throttle again. i know that on my dirt bikes i sure as hell reved them all the way out before changing when racing. and if you watch any videos on youtube you will see that they accelerate just fine even though they are 5000rpm above max torque

+1 for being insane to drive (not necessarily in a good way). and the noise!!!! lambo exhaust note is my all time favourite sound but yeah it's mustang turned into a lambo. would like to see it with the bonnet and boot down. i don't think it looks that bad

i want some dunk shoes for my blue dragon!!!!

the rice fairy strikes again

bahahaha, i love how ignorant and hypocritical NA skyline owners are. now i'm not a commodore fan, i'm just a realist. both commodores and NA skylines are slow. and as someone said above, they are just a posers car. how is a riced up lancer with an evo kit any different to a NA skyline with a gtr kit or any other big body kit? they are both base model crap dressed up to look like it's much faster big brother. both poser cars. it seems it is ok for skyline owners to do certain mods but if someone else does the same thing to their car they are stupid. sorry guys but it works both ways. there is a few skylines in gympie with GTR badges on them. one is an auto NA rb20E powered r33, which also has a gtr bodykit on it. "my skyline will chop commodores" bahahahaha, seriously. get someone with half a brain to drive the commodore then or race a manual. i've beaten late model commodores in the missus SSS pulsar, but the commodores were all auto. also a vn commodore weighs pretty much the same as a r33 NA, and as for power, they will generally put out similar power on a dyno to a NA rb25, but they have more torque down low. max power doesn't determine how fast you go. the 3.5L magnas (non vrx models) are a prime example of this. put out 147kw just like a NA rb25, weigh more than a r33, are fwd so harder to launch, yet consistently running mid to high 14's at the drags. how many NA skylines are into the 14's with just cat back exhausts? and how many can run mid 14's with full exhaust? if you want a fast NA go a magna, LOL as for "what mods can you do in a commodore? put a v8 in it?" you can put a heap of different motors in. you can put in all the same motors you could put in your skylines, plus you can more easily fit in other motors due to the larger engine bay. as for the "liking a challenge of making a NA as fast as a stock turbo", if you are on your p's then fine, go for it, but if you are buying a skyline to be fast, just get a turbo. these days they are cheaper to buy in the first place, so by the time you have wasted money getting it close to being as quick as a turbo, you are already well behind in the $$$ because for the same money as what you had to spend on buying the NA you could have a turbo version running high 12's. the same goes for a commodore. say a NA skyline costs you 15k, you could buy a commodore for $2000 and then spend 13k on making it go fast and have something that leaves every NA skyline on the road for dead. or you can spend the 15k on the skyline to impress 16 yr old girls

get a 3" cat and a dump/front pipe as well. no point have a 3" exhaust if the first 1m of exhaust is still the tiny stock one. i would also suggest a fmic for running the higher boost. it isn't so bad in winter, but come summer you want it because it will make a big difference to inlet temps if you drive it a bit hard. the stock cooler suffers from heat soak pretty quick.

sealed and cartridge will generally be the same, however in some circumstances it can mean a slightly different setup (bearings themselves will be the same, just how they are held in is different). rowan, i'll get you a price today

yeah. sealed bearing run bearings that look like bigger skateboard bearings although if a bike says on its specs that it has "mechanically sealed" then they are looseball, they just have dust seals..... like every other loose ball hub, LOL

yeah it is stock. it hasn't been chipped at all. if it had you wouldn't be able to see the white line around the larger chip in the upper right hand corner