jrocket

For any one interested. I managed to fit a late 90's gtr steering wheel to my 1995 GTST series 1. The GTR had twin airbags in the car it came from where as mine only had the drivers one. The main problem I struck was the airbag and getting it to hook up to the GTST wiring. The airbag computer module from the GTR was located in the center of the car, where as the GTST it was located in the steering wheel. The plugs on the GTR steering wheel would not just match up with the GTST. But I noticed that the 200sx series 2 steering wheel is much like the GTR one in shape. I removed the airbag from my 200sx along with airbag module, and installed it all in the GTR steering wheel. This complete setup then plugged right into the skylines wiring. Everything seemed to check out ok and I didnt have the airbag light come on all the time. So the GTR steering wheel from a R33 GTR late 90's model will fit a R33 GTST series 1 car, as long as you change the airbag center and airbag module over from a 200sx series 2 1998 or close model. My reason to change the wheel was because my old one was worn badly. Yes I do realise my 200sx now has no airbag. But that is a mostly track car now anyways. Jezz

Hmm pics kinda suck. I will fix the post up tomorrow. Im tired, time for bed

Hey Guys, I have some seats from my R33. As per the heading. Have both fronts and back. They are all in good condition as I look after my stuff. The drivers seat bolster is in good condition too because i know how to get in a car properly. If you have any questions please call or msg me COST: $220ono LOCATION: Traralgon, Victoria, 3844 CONTACT: Jeremy 0421561957 I prefer pickup guys. If you want to have it posted, it will cost ya.

I recently Shimmed up my stock diff in my R33 and it works a treat. I increased my overall shim size by 20%. I had a 0.8mm and 1.20mm shims in my center. I replace these with a 1.01mm and a 1.40mm. Seems to be better and is not locked too hard. Tight cornering doesn't make the wheel skip. I think that i could have went a little more shim just to get a bit better result, but seems to be not too bad. I had very little difficulty getting the diff center back into the housing with this amount of shim. I used 50% extra shim on my 200sx and that ended up being locked solid. Also i had a hard time getting the diff center back into the housing. Based on my experiences now, if i was to do this again i would aim for 25-30% extra shim than the stock. PS: it is possible to undo the rear mounting bolts on the diff housing, without removing the HICAS motor unit. I just used uni joints on my socket set.

Would say most if not all S2's have an airbag. Think they were like standard after 1995 or something. Mine is S1 and has air bag however. But my car is 1995 model.

Yeah thanks. Thats what i have read. I figured they just tryin to make some sales etc. 200KW is where i am aiming at this stage of the game. I knew these guys were full of sh!t but they have the only dyno around that i know of They wanted me to leave my car with them there too to do the run etc. Asked me if i had a lift back to work etc. I was like LOL yeah um na i think i will stay ere and watch if you dont mind. Dumb ass managed to crunch my gear box tryin to put it into reverse while still rolling forwards. Hmm maybe no one told him there is no syncro for reverse gear? Ah well i got a few things to think about now. Car needs a tune bad i think. AFR's were bad. Running off the scale at 10:1 and richer for most of the run.

Hmm well i got a Dyno run done this morning on my car. The cars not running lean at all as i was worried about. Infact its far the oposite. It runs so dam rich they couldn't read how rich. was below 10:1 ratio under acceleration. Cruising was fine tho. Car didn't make as much power as i hoped, but still not bad. Originally when i first got the car it peaked at 211 rwhp but it managed 235 rwhp this time. Not too bad. They were telling me that it should be far better. Told me that the factory R34 SMIC was a POS. Starting to make me wonder wat to do now. I guess they wanted to try make some more sales etc so started giving me a speil about this n that. I really not looking for massive power tho. Aiming for 200rwkw at this stage of the game. Prob gunna leave it there too for ages. I will post a pic of the dyno run later tonite prob.

Yes always running BP ultimate. Cars been goin very nice without any hick up's. Starts better too and sounds quieter and smoother on idle. No Popping or issues like that. Smoother power delivery too.

Ok well i reduced the boost this morning to 0.65 bar. Closed the spark plug gap to 0.8 and set the CAS back to 15 deg. Also reseted the computer to see how it goes. Car is no longer pinging or doing anything silly now. Still goes strong. Might just get it tuned now and boost it then. Will just leave at current boost setting and see how it goes for a while.

LOL yeah i know. I was hoping not to have to get it tuned so soon. But yeah guess i got no choice now.

Thx. I will have to think of what to do tomorrow. Prob just reduce boost again till i get it tuned.

Hmm interesting. Yeah i hope to get it on the dyno very soon. Might start by gapping the plugs to 0.8mm n see how it goes. If no change then reduce boost.

Dam. Figured it was My CAS was bumped up slightly by some mechanic dude to like 16 deg. I thinking i might bring it back to 15 again. Would reducing the spark plug gap help me in this situation. I see in other threads they say 0.8mm is good for around 12psi applications? I will reduce the gap tomorrow.

Hmm guessing no interest ?

Hey all I just installed tonite a TurboTech manual boost valve that i brought recently. Hooked it all up n set it fairly low n then went for a spin. Car seemed to be goin well. Boosted it carefully just to see how much the boost went up to on my aftermarket gauge. Started off at 0.8bar max then turned it down to 0.7 bar. Seemed to go well etc. But, i am now noticing that the valves are starting to bounce or something. It comes not always, but under high load. Its making like a psst kind of noise. Very similar to my daily driver when ya give it a gut full at low RPM and it gets rattly valves I am fairly certain its the valves. Never had this issue before boosting it up when previously at 0.52bar. I am unsure if this is detonation or pinging i am hearing here? I ran my car on the dyno a while ago and my fuel mixtures were off the scale in the rich (10:1 and richer). I installed a air/fuel gauge just to give me a bit of an idea whats goin on also. I see that it goes very rich now under acceleration so prob not leaning out. Can't be 100% sure cos of short band gauge. My car has: Modified ECU R34 SMIC 3 inch cat back Turbotech valve I figured that since my car is running fairly rich already, a few psi more boost prob wont hurt too much. I am thinking maybe i need to alter my spark plug gap from 1.1mm to 0.8mm or something? Should i just reduce boost? How do others go on a stock setup with more boost? I can use Cunsult to check whats goin on too. Might show something. Will try that tomorrow. What are your thoughts?