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khezz last won the day on September 23

khezz had the most liked content!

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About khezz

  • Rank
    Rank: RB25DE
  • Birthday 06/11/1981

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  • Location
    Perth Australia
  • Interests
    Cars<br />Music<br />Women<br />Food

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  • Car(s)
    Modified 1990 R32 GTR
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2,135 profile views
  1. Fair enough. Looks like its an email to the driveshaft shop.
  2. I did not know that. So when you look up axles and diffs and the spill says "direct fit to R32 gtr". It really isn't? Sorry, I really don't know. That why I ask.
  3. Thank you. I have heard that previously. Thats why I was hoping to stay local. Might go for a torque split controller. I keep watching the motive video about JUNII setup and how simple it is. Yes its lighter but produces nearly double the power of my goal. The only thing that's not mentioned is how often the components get replaced. Fairly settled on Quaife ATB centres and might go driveshaft shop for actual drive shaft. Still not sold on Axles though.
  4. High octane sell billet axles. Rated at 1000hp. Car will never launch with all 1500hp and by the time it reaches max power, load will be distributed 50/50 front to rear. Or am I way off? So 1 way is drivable on the street? Cool. Driveshaft shop has some great gear. Just worried about transport right now and would love to keep my money in Australia.
  5. Im getting so many conflicting stories from suppliers. I just want advice from the end user.
  6. No its real. Car will be running a nityo 3.2L built by JHH. Boosted by a G42-1450. Block is darton sleeved and half grout filled. Transmission wise im leaning towards an OS88.
  7. Hello. My build is progressing slower then expected, but its progressing. I would like to get opinions on what axles, diffs and driveshaft are recommended for a projected 1500hp at the flywheel. Car will be running on much lower hp tune for its day to day duties (yes, this will be daily driven and will even have a baby seat) but will see dragstrip and rolling racing work from time to time. I hear that rear diffs are very strong but front diff, axles and driveshaft will become consumables if not upgraded properly. would love peoples suggestions on brands to go for and places to contact. Thank you
  8. Big development overnight. I am now the owner of a JHH 3.2L bottom end. Nitto 3.2L stroker 9.0 to 1 comp ratio Darton sleeves Block half grout filled JHH billet main caps JHH block brace and AWD adaptor +625 head and rod bolts Uograded pins Bottom end is definitely not the weakest link anymore.
  9. I am surprised no one has thrown their vote behind PPG or Osgiken considering how popar they are and OS88 being rated to 1500hp.
  10. It won't. But the previous post seems to suggest that oil pumps get damaged because of harmonics before bearings. If oil pump stops pumping, so does the rest of the motor soon after.
  11. I wonder if the new oil drive systems or an external oil pump would help the issue. Great point that most people (me included) would have missed.
  12. With RBs pushing power further and further past 1000hp the demand on a gearbox is ever greater. 10 years ago a 1000hp transmission would be considered unbreakable. Now, with the cost of power parts going down and quality going up, the same person who could afford a sequential 10 years ago would be aiming for a number far higher then 1000hp. Keeping the cost aside and keeping dedicated drag boxes out of it (would love to see a thread on Liberty and Jericho transmissions) Are transmission manufacturers keeping up? What is the strongest sequential out there? Why do you think/know so? I am leaning towards the Hollinger. Been around for a very long time, very widely used in motorsports. Seems to be the only one with straight cut gears which eliminates sideload.
  13. Wait. Let me buy one before you do that.
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