khezz

She fits. She fits nicely!!!

Having a look at my setup, I will reach 60km/h at 5500rpm. So should right in the meat of it. Rev it out 9500 on every gear. Shouldn’t need to ride the clutch too much or at all. it’s all theoretical for now. Only track time will show if I made the right choice. Either way. I think I’ll have a lot of time finding out.

Enough is never enough. I’ll make as much power as possible and see what the next limiting factor is. Probably will be everything. it’s going to be a while before I am brave enough to reach the limit of anything. R4C can handle upto 2000nm. That’s way more than any other piece of driveline on my car. It all comes down to driving styles. If it lets go. I’ll have to sort it out. No use changing it now. got the new turbo today. Visibly bigger. Can’t wait to see it in the engine bay. Can’t wait to hear it sing it’s sexy deadly songs!!! 8685 top vs 7685 bottom. 2850hp in one photo.

Wow. You are the first to give the 8685 a thumbs down (of sorts). I am using an OS quad plate clutch. I would rather stay away from gas if I can. Personal preference really. Sydney RR is probably the most competitive in the world. I have never been but by all the videos and written accounts, if you aren’t pushing 1500+ hp, you aren’t even fighting for a podium. That’s insane for such a young competition. With Perth, 1000hp puts you close towards the top. We have a nasty turn at the end of our straight. Scary as hell. on the street, I will be using 98 octane and keeping the boost down. I’m thinking 700-800hp no more. Anything above that is not really usable. Most of my street duties will see the engine in the 2500-5000 rev range. Drags and RR is the main purpose of the car. Maybe a dyno comp from time to time. cheers for the info.

Ok that’s more sad. I hope you get it back soon. Are you still running a 6466? who is fixing the block?

Well that’s not so terrible. How’s the billet block working out? 2.8 rev like crazy. What you loose in capacity you gain in revs. is it running now?

I’d like to hear this sad tale please…

I was wondering when you would through some wisdom in. everything is built to withstand 1500-1600hp. Turbo was the only part that was slightly shy. If you can call 1350hp shy. Car will be driven often on the street. Can call it a daily but it’s not a street racer. If it was I would have gone 64xx or 68xx. This is mainly to go low 8s on the quarter and win roll racing. Sequential with FBW/flat shift. Two step, light tail shaft, front and rear drag spec diffs. I was hoping for some seat of the pants experience. Anthony (WARGTR) and Romanos (RHM) were very forthcoming coming. Both said that there is very little difference between 76 and 86. On the street you change under 4K anyways so it’s a nice quiet street car. The 3.2 with its counter weighted crank revs very well and has enough capacity for town driving. If you do decide to do a squirt, you would shift down and from 4500 onwards there is nothing that can keep up with you.

This was a free upgrade. Well just the cost of postage. Going 8085 meant forking out thousands of dollars and having an extra turbo in the shed hoping it sells. next Gen is still very new and there is not allot of comparison data to Gen 2. I haven’t seen any videos where new 8085 clearly beats the old 8685 for outright HP. Even though it is meant make 100hp more. A couple of people I have spoken to that have gone next gen say it makes similar power but does make it a little earlier in the rev range. Best example is RHM R34 gtr. Romanos does a back to back run with that exact combo. He makes the same power and he would max out both turbos for sure. All he said is he gained some torque. Not allot, just some. And went Pro Mod immediately after. I am not in the racing catagory where 500-1000rpm will make a difference to my results. I’m sure my GTR with an 8685 will make me shit my self for years to come. By the time I say “I need more power” there will be something better out anyways and I will be going billet block and getting divorced.

Great video. Thank you. I actually got a few messages back from guys that use 8685. So far 100% thumbs up. Almost all of them went from a 7675 or a 7685. sentiments were along the lines of “once your balls grow big enough, you’ll win lots of races”. All said that it is still very drivable on the street. Being a 3.2 with 9-1 comp ratio. Sequential box. Light tail shaft. It will spool nice and even. Will have all of the power in the 5500-8500 range where you shift.

Thank you for the reply. Head has the works done to it. Port polish, oversized valves. Biggish cams. I will spend as much time as needed on the dyno getting this thing right the only real wold result I’ve seen is WARGTR dyno where he made 1410hp but the line was a perfect slope. I realise a 6466 will be a street weapon but that’s not really the purpose of the car. I guess I’m still remembering old bush bearing Japanese turbos with dyno graphs like Mount Everest I won’t be racing people on the street (much). Occasional hwy push or a scare of a passenger on a cruise maybe. Planning lots of track time. Just don’t want the turbo to completely choke the engine. From what I see with all the US supra videos, doesn’t seem to be the case.

Hello. my R32 is ready to start but I received a message which has thrown a small spanner in the works. I currently have everything built to hold 1600hp. Engine (3.2L), fuel system, sequential drive train. However the Turbo is a gen 2 7685 T4 1.12 rear (1350hp). I have an offer of doing a straight swap for a gen 2 8685 with the same rear housing (1500hp). this will put the turbo in line with the rest of the setup regarding HP potential. main purpose of the car is drag and roll racing. I will be driving it on the street as often as I can. If anyone has any real work experience with a turbo that size, what’s it like on the street. Would love some dyno graphs. I would even welcome opinions. I found a few dyno graphs of these turbos on 2JZ engines which is a reasonable comparison but there is no rpm reference on the graph. It’s all MPH based. thanks to everyone in advance.

Had confirmation regarding my license plate “ITSGONE” is mine.

Hello. Well it’s been an up and down few weeks. Everything was going well. Parts arriving and fitting (always a bonus). Ran into an issue with the clutch booster. JUN intake GT plenum is huge. We got the boost delete kit and it was still touching. So that’s getting machined but it’s not a huge issue. tail-shaft arrived after we genuinely thought it was lost in transit. That was very nice. Then things turned very frustrating. We got to the part where we were hours away from starting the car only to find that the fuel rail had 11mm holes and my injectors are 14mm. So now we are waiting for a new one. But it will be purple this time to match the rest of the dress up colour scheme. baring any further issues, car should be started next week. Then it’s getting it engineered and licensed. Might even get to do some running in before a leave for Japan. Will be going to Osaka and Tokyo. Won’t have too much time to my self but I will visit some workshops. JUN is definitely on the cards. dump and screamer pipe porn below.

Manifold has been sent off for ceramic coating. No ETA. In the mean time I have placed a deposit on a pair of 1600hp rated rear CV from Crank Motorsport. Should be here in September. also bought a single piece AlphaOmega 2000hp aluminium tail shaft. That one should be here next week. Apparently it’s about half the weight and makes quite a significant difference in engine response. that should be the driveline all sorted.

Watch the video. They explain where the heads fail.

No, I don’t know who owns that. I won’t be selling mine. Just a tongue in cheek dig at people who advertise gear and say they are selling due to “change in of direction”.

Yes I know about the extra clutches. But he clearly states that besides the burnout, they leave it auto mode. Ive had so many advice about this. From “set it to 20-80 or 30-70” to “you will need a full gear/speed/boost strategy”. This guy is running 8.2 in plain auto mode. I think I’ll copy him.

hello. Above is a link to the latest HP Academy video detailing the RHM R34 GTR. As you would expect it has allot of high $$ parts but 3 things that stood out to me was that it run a plug and play G4 ECU. Normally these types of cars run over $10000 worth of Motec or Haltech gear. second was that they are running a standard RB26 head. Yes it has bigger valves and cams. But it is not ported. They say it is more reliable and not a limiting factor. Makes all those CNC porting programs seem useless. Later on they say that once they run more fuel/injectors car will make another 150-200hp. I may have a parted and polished head for sale as I feel a change of direction coming. lastly was they are not interfering with the AWD/transfer case controls. It is still automated just like it was from the factory. Case is strengthened but that’s it. in all an interesting video with some out of the box ideas that clearly work.

The last of the fabrication is done. Now it’s just a little bit of work on the fuel system and last bit of electrical. After that it’s start up, run in and dyno.

Hello. another stage completed. Cold side pipework is done. Exhaust should be finished today. need to ceramic coat exhaust manifold. Install EGTs. Finish fuel lines and we are at start up and tune. might see it for my birthday next month.

Hello. Things seem to be moving in the right direction. Diffs are in, sump is on obviously. Timing belt is on and cams are set to “0”. now it’s fabrication time. Intercooler piping. Exhaust. Oil/water/fuel lines and the last of the electrical hookup. I’m hoping to see it on the road in the next couple of months.

Well I’ve sent them a message asking if the transmissions in question are streetable and what’s involved in fitting one. We will se what happens. I’m still surprised that none of the dedicated drag cars run them if they are a proven product in much much faster cars.

Liberty make transmissions for RB 25/26. basic unit is rated for 1500hp and next one up is 3000hp. Come in 3,4,5 speed and unlimited ratios. Clutchless. Prices are in USD but still seem way cheaper then any sequential. These things seem to be just about unbearable. Why isn’t any one using one in a GTR?