Birth

Hi, for sale is my 2002 V35 GT8 sedan 145,xxx kms registered to January 2018 $1,900. VQ35DE 3.5l engine (200 kw), 8-speed CVT gearbox with paddles for shifting. Pros | The body is in great condition, suspension good with recent updates to the front upper and lower control arm bushes and front and rear sway bar links, interior is in good overall condition (though there are some tears on the driver's seat bolsters), CVT gearbox works really well and never had any troubles at all, tyres and brakes in fair condition, well maintained car. I've owned the car for ten years and am the first Australian owner with the car driven by my wife for about the first eight years. Cons | F0 error on CD player (aux in cable works for phones/iPods), tears on the drivers seat bolsters, 10-cent coin size dent on the passenger-side front guard, diff has a bit of a whine, car has an issue managing temperature on long trips which is undiagnosed but may be related to a head gasket leak (described in more detail below). Recently, the car's temperature has become erratic on trips greater than 40km (sometimes longer >50km and sometimes less ~35km). The car runs normally / good with-out any issues at lower distances. On occasions the temperature will rise and fall with-out the need to stop. On other occasions I've chosen to stop for <5 minutes (to avoid running up too much temperature) after which it sometimes will run again with-out a problem; on other occasions I've chosen to stop a few times (it's 51km from home to work). The issue is undiagnosed; these symptoms are described in the workshop manual as potentially an exhaust leak in one of the head gaskets. Note though that there is no mixing of the coolant and oil. As mentioned, the car can be driven shorter distances with no troubles and is available for test drives. The car is located in Elderslie NSW. I can be contacted by PM or phone on 0435 844 866.

Pics?

Got one from Nissan. Around $60.

Hi guys, I have lost one of the centre caps from my 2002 V35 sedan (oem wheels). Contact me on 0435844866 if you have one to sell. Thanks, Ben

Clarion? It says Bose on the front?

I am still after one of these. Alternatively, is there someone in Sydney who repairs them?

Hi guys, I would like to buy fully functioning 2002 V35 GT8 Bose stereo to replace mine which has an error. Thanks, Ben

With regard to replacing a failed unit with an OEM/JDM unit; there are a few different facias with different colours etc. am I able to use my facia with the stereo unit from a different car (assuming it is the Bose 6-stack like I have in my 2001 350GT sedan). Thanks, Ben

Chris, does changing the radio mean that I won't have air conditioning? If they are connected now (ie the radio is making the air conditioning not work) how will the air conditioning react when there is no (factory) radio at all? Ben

Was there a solution to this? My 2002 V35 has done this once before but corrected itself soon after. Today it has stayed in this state (no radio, none of the buttons do anything and aircon on cold / auto). Thanks, Ben

One end of each control arm has the shells. On the other end the bush presses in without shells. Also, to clarify on my point about removing the old shells; I used a hacksaw, I removed the hacksaw blade and inserted it into the control arm end. I reattached the blade to the hacksaw and cut out the old shell from the inside while trying to be careful not to cut into the arm too much. This actually worked quite well.

Hi guys. Thanks for the enquiries. The car sold to the first guys who saw it.

There have been a few enquiries about the condition of the interior. Here are some pictures. I intended on removing the guages before selling the car, but I'm happy to leave them in for an extra $100. They are Automter Pro Comp boost, fuel pressure and oil pressure

I'm selling my 1993 R32 GTS4. The reason for sale is that I am 33 now and getting soft! I have loved this car but it's time for a change. I live in Harrington Park NSW. Being an R32 GTS4 it has ATTESSA 4WD and has an RB20DET engine. I have had the car for about 11 years. When I bought it there were about 32,000km now there are 262,191km. There car runs the original engine and gearbox which have remained strong. Externally the car looks good (as shown in the pictures) and has a great interior. The car is registered until October 2012. Over the years I have included a number of non-stock parts which I have listed below. I can be contacted here or on the phone 0435 844 866. Thanks, Ben There are some some negative elements to the car including Slight amount of rust behind the driver's rear wheel which I have cut out but not repaired (the cheap option would be to get Type-M rear quarters which would entirely cover the area Rust in the driver's side B-pillar following a crash repair from about eight years ago Needs four new tyres Needs a new clutch (the car drives fine but the clutch is making a noise which should be addressed) Non-stock parts R34 RB25DET Neo OP6 turbo GTR intercooler K&N air filter Bosch VL turbo in-tank fuel pump 3 inch front-pipe back exhaust (cat back is HKS) Tilbrook Auto and Dyno chip Apexi AFM (old-style) Sparco steering and KYB boss kit Stealth shift light 4WD on/off switch ECUTalk Consult Cable Pioneer 5 1/4 inch 3-way front speakers with Phillips tweeters Pioneer 6 inch 3-way rear speakers Biltstien shocks King springs Nolathane front upper control arm bushes Front and rear strut bars Cusco brake stopper R32 GTR (non-Brembo) 297mm front brakes Slotted rear brake rotors Braided brake lines Genuine N1 boot lip on blanked boot lid Fibreglass N1-style side skirts Type-M front bar Removed items ABS removed Air conditioning removed Rear-wheel steer removed Stereo head unit removed Rear windscreen wiper removed

Hi Troy, I took another look tonight. First thing is I checked that the power wire is getting a good connection at the battery and its fine. With the relay, to avoid any issues, I temporarily bridged it from the positive terminal so as to avoid any question about inconsistent power from my splicing effort. Test 1 If I unplug everything and plug in only power, earth and remote - no protect mode If I then plug in the RCAs - no protect mode (with nothing attached to the other end of the RCA cables) If I then plug in the RCAs - no protect mode (with with an iPhone on the other end of the RCA cables - I didn't have another source handy) After having unplugged the iPhone but leaving the RCA cables in the amp-side If I wire up the sub to bridged to Channel B - no protect mode If I wire up a 6 inch (right-side of the car speaker) to Channel A / right - no protect mode If I wire up a 6 inch (right-side of the car speaker)to Channel A / left - protect mode Test 2 Disconnect the 6 inch (right-side of the car speaker) to Channel A / right - still in protect mode Disconnect the 6 inch (left-side of the car speaker) to Channel A / left - comes out of protect mode If I wire up a 6 inch (left-side of the car speaker) to Channel A / right - no protect mode If I wire up a 6 inch (right-side of the car speaker) to Channel A / left - protect mode Conclusion It seems that there is something wrong with the Channel A / left circuit. No matter what speaker I connect to it, no matter what else is connected to the amp (other than power, earth and remote obviously) the result is the same - protect mode. Do you agree? What are my options from here. I am ok (not great) with electronics; that is I can de-solder/solder parts. Is it as easy as replacing a component with-in the amp? In your first reply you said it might be a voicecoil. How can I confirm this? Thanks again for your help. Ben