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Skysthelimit

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About Skysthelimit

  • Birthday 11/30/1982

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Perth

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  • Car(s)
    R33 GTR V-Spec

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  1. hi, I am having trouble finding where to get the Do Luck rear bumper from for my R33 GTR. I have read several posts about DMD motors, but they don't seem to exist anymore? Any help finding a quality rear bumper in this style would be much appreciated! Thanks!
  2. Hi all I am hoping to get advice from you guys in regards to my current situation. My R33 GTR has been in and out of a workshop for over 6 months. It took about 3 months for me to source the front end parts of an R34 GTR. All the parts, headlights, bonnet, front bar and lip are genuine R34 GTR parts. The only non genuine parts I had to get were the conversion fenders. Originally I bought copy URAS ones, but they were not very good, I was able to get genuine URAS R334 fenders which are discontinued, getting them sent from Croatia from a guy who cancelled he's plans on a R334. All the parts have been there at the workshop for about 2 months, but the workshop was very busy and they only started on my car about 10 days ago. I got a call today telling me that they aren't happy with the fitment, that the bonnet does not line up right with the URAS fenders and the R34 headlights don't line up with the bonnet. I understand it's a custom job, and they knew it would be a custom job when they accepted to do it. It seems they have little to no experience with custom work, but I went to them because of their great reputation for high quality work, and they told me they could do it for me and I was fine with the 10k quote they gave me. They are the preferred repairer for one of the luxury euro car brands. I am going to go to the workshop tomorrow, the owner wanted me to see he's concerns in person. I have a feeling now that they are not up to the job on doing the R34 GTR front on my R33 GTR. Has anyone pulled the pin on a workshop before? How do I go about doing it? Do I ask for a bill of their labour / and cost so far and pay that? Another issue is, while my car was there, they told me a "customer" damaged the rear quarter of my car while it was in the parking area. I guess I would get them to pay for the cost to repair that if i go else where? Advice is much appreciated. Thank you. Sorry for the long post. Tim
  3. hey, sorry to bring up an old post.. but does anyone knows who bought these and if they did end up using them? I've been trying to track down a pair of these URAS conversion fenders the past month... So if anyone has some for sale or knows where I might get a pair please I am after genuine URAS or a genuine kit, I bought a copy and the quality was bad.. I found a guy in the uk with a pair, but postage is too expensive... Cheers
  4. hi guys, I am after the following parts for R34 GTR: Front bar and lip Bonnet R34 headlights (don't have to be from GTR) Thanks for any help!
  5. sorry stopped coming to this site. Yes the Nismo cluster and race computer is still available and up for sale
  6. Hi, I have a Nismo LCD Instrument Cluster with computer that I have been running in my car, but as I never track my car or make use of the track features of the computer. I thought I'd see if anyone was interested in it. Computer is still in the car, but not hooked up to a video output. Dash has been removed to not clock up kms while its up for sale. Has 100590 kms on the dash. The LCD Instrument Cluster is plug and play, replaces old dash of R33 GTS-T or GTR, the LCD has a video in plug. Epson EJ1 System has 5 wires that tap into wires from the ECU loom and can be used with aftermarket ecu. Then plugs in to the dash through the video cable. There are switches on the computer box, which you set according to which engine is running in the car. Nismo dashes are rare. I have seen just LCD dash for sale without computer for $1200 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/326614-nismo-lcd-instrument-cluster-for-r33 I'm after $1250 for this set. Complete Setup is extremely rare. Located in Perth. Pics show the menu bars, lots of different things can be displayed as well as kms on the clock. Cheers.
  7. Meeting near Freo, location: The shaded end of the carpark is pretty empty most of the time, the northern apartments are mostly unoccupied Overflow into non shaded carpark closer to the beach if it fills up Click this link to see shading: http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF&msa=0&msid=209992388828036686514.0004b5eb35617fd00826f 10pm for 10:30pm depart Usual rules apply. Behave in carparks and built up areas Performance cars only, no s13s No neons, hektic sub, horn and exhaust note competitions. Bring a full tank and someone with a prominent rack to read the map (Originally posted in Antilag Forums)
  8. thanks for the info blind_elk, but I was actually there when he changed the sensor, he changed the single pin one that goes the the dash gauge.. which is weird why a brand new sensor made the gauge read even higher I'm thinking I will change the ecu sensor too, cause I'm worried that's not reading correctly to the ecu
  9. ..ok.. further to the over heating issue.. So I had the thermostat looked at by the workshop that put the engine in. seemed ok.. they removed it and made sure it was opening properly.. but still overheated. so today they replaced the temp sensor that sits where coolant comes out of the engine. but the engine is still reading max over heating on the gauge. I even changed the dash cluster with a friend's, to see if it was a faulty gauge, and it reads at the very top of H now The coolant does not run hot, its not bubbling like it should be if the reading is that high. Can this mean coolant coming out of the engine is running hot, meaning some sort of engine problem?? I'm trying to now track down who sold the workshop the engine to see what they will have to say about it. Any advice? Cheers
  10. hmm cheers, thanks for the info r32line .. I did wonder if it was a feature to keep revs up through gear changes.
  11. ok thanks, I'd assume the same, but will try to check into it. ..also another thing I have noticed is.. on start up, I get a very high knock sensor reading from the power fc of around 200. after that, the knock sensor is fine, reads under 35. I would like to assume, its just picking up some noise in that frequency from normal start up sounds.. but the old engine never picked up any abnormal high numbers on start up.. what's the possibility of this high reading meaning damage is being done? is it a concern?? Cheers
  12. hi guys, Hoping you can help me out with some queries. 2 months ago, my engine slipped a crank and resulted in me replacing the engine with another engine out of a R33 GTR Vspec with 70k. I got the car back the other day, and I have found confusing temperature readings.. The Power FC shows the max temp it hits is 82 degrees, but on my dash, the temperature gauge it is high, hits the white line that is just before the max temp at the H. Coolant level seems fine, radiator fan spins. The oil temp seems fine from the stock gauge, sitting at around a third of the way to max. I have kept revs under 3.5k to keep things safe. I am unsure which I should be trusting, whats the chances the Power FC is giving the wrong temp? I don't want to cook the engine that just got put in (I have it booked in at the end of the week). Does the factory water temp gauge and the Power FC take temperature at different areas of the engine??? Also I have found the car to rev differently. When i release the clutch now, the revs drop to around 1700 rpm instead of down to idle. When stop at the lights, it might take about 20 seconds at 1700rpm before dropping down to the 950 idle. What can cause this, and is it something to worry about? Thanks for any advice you can give me, much appreciated
  13. hey, just wondering what material it is made from? Cheers
  14. hmmm ok, thanks for the ideas guys I'll have to get it checked out by a workshop I think, tried the hose to ear thing to look for vacuum leaks but couldn't find any. Eric, who you booking it in with? I think I will get mine booked in also for a dyno tune and try and sort the issue out. is normal vacuum at idle 500mm/Hg? I remember reading that somewhere, but not sure if I remember correct.
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