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Equilibrise

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Equilibrise last won the day on August 10 2013

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About Equilibrise

  • Rank
    Rank: RB25DE
  • Birthday 04/18/1982

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Concord

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  • Car(s)
    Nissan Stagea M35 AR-X
  • Real Name
    Adam

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  1. Another 15mins back to 13amps and AFR18-19 when any load put on stall. External temperature of fuel tank 32deg, external air temperature 16deg. Not sure how to diagnose vapour lock?
  2. So, left the car idling and took the following measurements on current draw from the pump: When running from cold 25 amps. Gradually drops to 22 amps at operating tempetature with AFR10. Then after 5mins 21amps with AFR11. Another 20 mins 18 amps with AFR11. Another 25 mins 15 amps AFR11. Another 15mins 14.5amps AFR13. Another 25mins 13amps AFR14. Another 15 mins 12.5amps AFR14. When stalled up to 2k at this point AFR18
  3. Thats interesting. The section of cable between the battery and relay including the fuse holder melted and also a 100mm long section of the negative cable directly off the fuel pump inside the tank melted. It even melted the plug on top of the pump! The route is about 4.5m long on a 25amp fuse with 30amp relay. The fuse and relay are situated on top of the battery. The cable then runs through the firewall with the engine harness, then on the side of the passenger footwell and under the rear seat to the pump. The new cable completely replaces the old one even inside the plugs and in the pump cradle. Perhaps I'll try another rewire with 10awg instead. Can't seem to find anywhere local that sells fuel pressure guage, sensor and adapter so that will take a couple of weeks to get anyway.
  4. I'll try to get my hands on a fuel pressure guage and monitor it. The confusing part for me is that when cold it runs very rich and when hot it starts to lean out.The symptoms get worse the longer the car runs. I just let it idle for 20 mins then tried to drive, fuel ratio jumped to 20 with very light acceleration then stayed idling at 18 at which point I left the car on the side of the road and walked home. The wiring route is exactly the same as previous rewire route which was working perfectly fine apart from melting the fuse and cables at each end. It was still operating, just getting very hot due to resistance. Current upgraded wire size is 8AWG.
  5. Fuel system related mods are: - Deatchworks DW300 - Siemens 660cc injectors - Greddy emanage ultimate Its being monitored by a Greddy Infometer touch an Innovate LC-2 wideband
  6. Hi all, I'm a bit lost on this one. Installed a Deatchworks DW300 a few years ago and rewired with cable as suggested by Deatchworks. Since then the cable has burnt out (melted) twice telling me that there is some resistance there. To avoid a fire I decided to upgrade the wire size again complete from battery to fuse to relay to the pump including the earth. Since then the power curve is inconsistent and at anywhere near WOT the engine cuts out and dumps a plume of smoke. When cold the AFR is richer than normal. When hot/engine has been running for a long time there is massive power loss and running extremely lean (AFR16-20) even when gently accelerating from a standstill. Any thoughts on weather it just needs a retune, or cable size too big or buggered fuel pump or fuel getting too hot or another biggeted sensor or perhaps something else? Since its started playing up this time I have replaced the narrowband OEM O2 sensor, MAF sensor and visually checked for intake leaks, however I am certain it is directly related to the fuel pump rewire. Any input greatly appreciated.
  7. Want To Buy for M35 Stagea: - Power steering rack (no leaks or play) - Power steering high pressure pipe/hose/line from pump (no leaks) - AWD front propeller shaft (no play in uni-joint)
  8. That sounds like afm or unmetered air (intake leak)
  9. M35 Starter motor Hi all, I thought I would recommend a repairer in Sydney after getting much more expensive repair quotes. The starter motor died (complete failure) and wouldn't turn the engine over at all, even when tapped with a wrench. It wouldnt even make the ticking sound that they usually make when they die. I was quoted between $120 and $200 for second hand starter motors from wreckers. New starter motors were upwards of $800 coming from overseas. I decided to use the same repairer that I used for a previous m35 starter motor (different car). Both times cost $180. They use genuine parts for the hitachi unit and end up sounding and performing like brand new. The car now starts on first crank. The repairer I used is: Concord autoelectrical and mechanical repairs on Parramatta rd close to the start of m4.
  10. It won't make boost when in limp mode. Change the cam angle sensors if that is the code that was showing.
  11. If its like mine then awd g35x. If need be, you can change the lower control arm for one off a 350z/v35/g35 then you will be able to use kits for those cars.
  12. That's it. The post on here is under "m35 transmission diagnostic codes"
  13. It depends if currently the front struts have a fork at the base which connect to the lower control arm (350z) or (like on mine) the bottom of the strut is connected to a curved section of metal which then connects to the lower control arm
  14. It does this as a form of protection when there is a fault like fluid too hot or fluid level low. I've posted instructions on transmission ecu diagnostics procedure in the past. If the fluid is fine then check the transmission ecu for fault codes.
  15. Comes from China but is on the au site
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