Wild33

Yes thanx for that siksII- i finding out if he has any more and if so, how much. TRhat was a good price.

Sorry it didn't work out for you, it does get hot in there.... so far my plastic hasn't melted at all, but the amalgamated tape has deteriorated a bit, but still covering the coils pretty much. Thecar has done 500kms since in various temps, and so far good, no misfire at all. I think that the method described in this thread is an excellent fix for the relative cost (<$1), but at the end of the day, splitfires are the go. Do you mind me asking what you paid for your coils? Or if anybody reads this, where is the cheapest? for new blue splitfires? The best i've found is $900.

YOU NEED TO INSULATE THE METAL FRAME AND THE PLASTIC COIL PACK BY SQUISHING HITEMP SILICON IN THE GAPS (VERY TRICKY BECAUSE THE GAP IS SO SMALL) OR INSERTING A THIN PLASTIC CUT OUT RECTANGLE, ON BOTH SIDES OF THE PACK WITH SILICON SMEARED ON THE SIDE THATS AGAINST THE COIL PLASTIC.

YOU NEED TO INSULATE THE METAL FRAME AND THE PLASTIC COIL PACK BY SQUISHING HITEMP SILICON IN THE GAPS (VERY TRICKY BECAUSE THE GAP IS SO SMALL) OR INSERTING A THIN PLASTIC CUT OUT RECTANGLE, ON BOTH SIDES OF THE PACK WITH SILICON SMEARED ON THE SIDE THATS AGAINST THE COIL PLASTIC.

PROBLEMO SOLVED- thanks to this thread. I had a nagging misfire for the past three years and it seemed to get worse when i bolted on a turbo back 3 inch zorst and increased the boost. It used to muliple misfire at 4500-5500 at .7bar... but now sweet to .8!! I fixed it like this: got one of those school plastic folders with the clear pages in the middle-you know the ones you get for a buck. Well I cut up the black outer plastic covers (approx 50mm by 30mm) and inserted them in between the plastic housing of the coil and the square metal outer ring. I cut it so that it couldn't slip out by cutting a slight angle. I glued these in with silicon. I did this on both sides of the coils. On some coils the plastic cover was too thick, so i used a skinner plastic from another brand of folder.I had the hairline crack as in the photos shown on this pagei just smeared this with aradyte. Some of the gaps had gunk-maybe carbon or crap sandwiched in the gap... so i got some 100 tough sandpaper and slid it through and cleared out the gunk and roughened up the plastic for better adhesion. After that, being paranoid, I wrapped the whole unit skilfully with 3M pvc tape. Went for a ride, and sweet..no misfire!!! The only thing I am going to change is the pvc tape- i will try to get some self amalgamating tape that good for high temp. Definitely this bodgy but effective method is worth doing...but i hope it will last .. and i think it should.

still got it,... i need one and live near chatswood. Must not be cracked in any way and must seal out moisture. thankyou, steve

My friend has a complete car (R34-gtst) which he is wrecking. He actually bought the car from the auctions. It had been rolled so you can imaging the damage of the chassis and most of the panels, but all the running gear is fine. He has the paperwork to show if necessary. It cannot be registered, however the vehicle maybe sold as parts. He was wanting to use the running gear in a VL commodore that he has, but i talked him out of it and told him that your better off starting with a decent car such as a R32 GTR, that actually handles. This car has performance modifications including: -Original RB25DET engine and gearbox -nizmo dash with the 300plus speedo, -all interior, -airbag steering wheel, -HKS suspension-all round, -big bore japanese exhaust system (possibly 3.5inch), -Volk 18's rims plus tyres but these are damaged ....and other usual stuff. If any of these appeal to you, or if you are after stock parts, call my friend Rob on 0405220738. PM's to me are possible but it may be a while before I will get back to you. This is the first time the car has been advertised (13-01-04). Parts are availble for pick up in Sydney. He may post to other addresses-you need to ask him. Regards, Steve

here something to think about.... i was at BIG W, comparing Z145A's and i noticed that the Valvoline for 9$ was exactly the same as the $3.95 cheaper brand...forget the name, but was in a black box, bottom shelf.... one of those brands which you never heard of,... i actually compared the outside casing, the hole size, the way the insides are pressed together, the inside of the filter material, you can see the holes and inside guts when you look in the light...and let me tell you guys...absolutely exact,,,,... made in PRC....peoples republic of china....the only difference was the colour...this cheap one was black.... it's funny becuae i remembered that the valvoline used to be a korean product a few years back when i drove a charade. anyway, i compared the ryco, and there is nothing like it. In the inside the holes are cut differently, and they are more like 'slits', heaps of them, rather than holes. Cost 12$.... I also looked at a 'cooper' brand, and there is no clones, made in korea, sealed with plastic, looks good too. anyway, somehting to think about.

yeah thanks, i should have done it myself but like i said, the book needed to be stamped. I am sick of taking my car to 'professionals' who always do something to annoy me. Anyway, i know next time.

i just had my oil changed in my 33, by the 'local mechanic', who change the oil (helix ultra synthetic) and the filter Ryco z145a. i wasnt really happy when he revved the engine at 3000rpm, via the cable in the engine bay, for 10 seconds, so that he could actually take a second reading, which was on 'full' luckily. i think that it is bad to rev the engine at 3000rpm, when the oil filter is brand new and had not been primed (oil filled before putting on), because maybe there is a space in time when the oil pressure is low as it is filing up the filter (which at my guess is about 400mL), so therefore perhaps there is limited oil and starvation in the upper cylinders when the pistons are flyn up and down at great rate....but i suppose 3000rpm is not all that high. AM I TOO PARANOID, or does this technique suck???? I only got the mechanic to do the job as my 'warranty book' had to be stamped...otherwise i ll do it myself. If you want to do something right...do it your self.,, is the saying, (as long as u know what u are doing).

ok thanks Shell, that sir looks pretty cool, i will check it out a bit further then.

i just went to Jaycar and they are selling their monoblock 130w rms mono subamp for $140, reduced from $169, but the actual amp must be mount into a cavity on the sub-box,not a direct bolt on. This is good if you are custom building a sub box and want to intergrate an amp into the cabinet. The sub amp has crossover adj., as well as some other features, but i havent heard it yet, or read any reviews..... looks ok though

the bottom and back of the rear seats was taken off, and the shelf was pulled towards me, a couple of clips popped as i lifted up, but the pillar plastic had a tab on each side which was slotted into the parcel shelf. I had to shorten the tabs with some strong scissors so it could bend thin wood shelf. all is out ..coollllllll hey Nozila that dancing girl is turning me on, might import one of those too!!!

the entire wooden based parcel shelf is out now, and im gonna cut some 19mm mdf spacers for my 6x9s, should all fit up hopefully....farken baby anchor plate installed in oz, pain in the arse!!!

no worries, read the other comments...worked it out, and will try tomorrow. i am having a conversation with myself again.!

hey guys, its 11:30pm, and i am trying to take out the darn 6 inches from the rear parcel shelf, but there is a nuisance 'baby anchor plate' across my 6's, because i going to replace with explods 6X9's, but the question is HOW DO I TAKE OFF THE TOP (BROWN WOODEN + CARPET TOP LAYER PARCLE SHELF) OFF???, so i can get to the bolts which removes the baby anchors?