RB30 Ceffy

yeah, very interested in your pix as well. Always wanted to do this in my sil vert too. The A31 dash board is pretty ugly anyways. Even a R32 skyline dash would be an upgrade.

Im in the middle of a Cefiro build. Its a full on track car. I am trying to get it under 2500lbs but this is going to be a little difficult. Going to have to chop out the doors, trunk, trash the glass and build some lexan windows along with some lightweight aftermarket parts. Crossing my fingers!!! I've done a full cage for the drifting series we have here in canada and went with 1.50 0.095 but I am opening up to grip racing as well and need it under 2500lbs to compete in the SCCA. Its fully built RB26 with the GTSS turbo kit, d-jetro, OS 1-3 gears, GTR subframe, painless race harness (Only using the factory engine harness which is modified) NO other factory wiring at all! Got 33 brembos with full suspension. Id love to try these out too to help my geo: http://www.driftworks.com/shop/suspension/nissan-suspension/driftworks-geomaster-hubs.html I should be around the 400-450WHP so it should be a pretty competitive car once set up. Hopefully running here in the next 2-3 months intime for a quick practice. Going to take this yrs season to race in several series and some hill climb time attack. Try and build a portfolio before next year to try and get a little support for gas and tires, but we will see how she goes and go from there. here's the car: in pieces right now. Engine is half built, car is half built. Got everything to get it done, just need to bust ass!

yeah, Im looking into it. Bit busy with some things but that was my next step. Wasnt sure if its really worth an entire set of gears for the price you can get an aftermarket pump for. But once I have an idea I can post what I come up with in here. I've had the idea of using something like the REIMAX gear set with a 2J style drive. Had another member on here just PM me on the same subject. Im just not sure when i'll get around to it. My friend is a CNC drafter and I have several friends who run the machine. I just dont have any capital at the moment to buy the gears for a copy and i am no engineer to configure a new pump on my own. If anyone has a draft made up that would work or could have the drive modified i would be more than happy to help set things up.

agree^ I have heard similar stories on the cometic units from friends. I have never used them. Always used tomei or oem. Never had any issues even when re using the tomei gasket several times. Quick spray of permetex and back in she goes

If I were you i would try to pick up a RB26 harness used. Your just going to have a headache using the 20 harness. lots of the sensors on the harness are in different locations and would require extending some and some sensors may use different plug ends on them. Im not sure about Aus, but a second hand RB26 harness goes for around $150 CAD here in Canada. I know of a couple for sale right now in fact. If in the end you decide to purchase one and have troubles finding one you can pm me and I can help track one down for you. Shipping could be pricey tho Something to keep in mind.

Woah, that sounds ridicules. poor guy! I think I remember hearing about that on these forums a year or so ago. I dont visit too often, but the Canadian forums are boring to read these days so I wanted to read over some of the good threads here. Tho, not sure how he can loose several thousand dollars??? Unless he was in a production run of them. Cant see loosing that much on making one or two sets and then trying them out to make sure they work. Do you know if he started with one gear set and get a chance to test the design? Im not even sure I'll get around to it. i think after doing all the stuff to help out the RB like collars, restrictors, drains, vents, sumps ect Its more less go dry set up now. Id only do these gears if I could get them for less than $400-$550 CAD for the new gears and drive once you get into production. Sounds like a great idea tho.

I suppose you could use the 20 harness, but it would require lots of hacking and modification. I have never done it. Every time I use a RB26 cyl head, no matter what engine or what car, I always use the RB26 harness. If you have a 26 harness, use it. Its rather easy to use make work in a GTS-T. Just need to hardwire in your injector resistor pack, most the rest plugs right in.

I read the entire oil thread. Seems to be a 50/50 on people who think that it is a drain or a vent. Regardless, if not doing the rear drain then the sump should still vent via the separator/catch tank. With all the heated debate, I am just going to install two -10an fittings on each side of the sump above oil level. Then, conduct my own tests and use what I believe works better. Find out if its draining under load or helping the engine breath better. That way I have a drain/vent for the head and the primary catch tank and conclude what side is more appropriate once I find out if its a drain or not.

just need to bump this to read it without highlighted yellow text :S Been a couple yrs since I visited this thread.

This is interesting! I had them set up on the driver side on my other builds but figured on my current build to try on the pass side or both pass side driver side thinking that the cranks rotation would help the drain flow as the crank spins clock wise if looking at the front of the engine. Did you notice this from a before and after or was there other things to consider with your build when you did your drain? Thinking if it were on the driver side of the sump the rotation of the crank would not help the drain drain the oil into the sump. kind of a total reverse to what your saying.

That may be my next step. Your totally right on tho! What happened to the guy that was designing the splined gears? Machine work in Canada is relatively cheap. I got a few guys I use and its very reasonable. I'd like to see what this other guy ended up with as a design. Did he make new gears completely or just the inner gear and drive for the crank? I think there has to be a cheap solution for everyone. Or we could all go dry and call it a day. none of this inbetween stuff ($1500 for same design pump)

Its been mentioned before so many times. But the clearance on the drive and pump is a problem in my opinion. If you take a N1 pump gear and slide it over a R34 crank ir jun collar, there is .006" clearance each side. .012 total! It rattles like crazy when limiter is being hit. As mentioned just above. when limiter is reached the crank has to slow down before fuel is added to complete the combustion cycle. A loose crank/collar to pump is just smashing in there when its on the limiter. Every N1 pump or most pumps that have failed, crack right at the flat corner and then the rest is history. Now i know im not the only person that figured this out. I have made new collars with .001" clearance each flat for a total of .002". Slips right on no problem but it doesnt have that loose fit like all the nissan cranks and Jun collars out there. i've gone through about 20 of them now with N1 pumps selling them to friends and stuff and not one problem yet. Just look at this picture. Every crank you pull out looks like this. Its just retarded! the drive only has 3/16" contact. Crazy! Ive seen almost every brand of pump brake. Looked at all the pictures people post up after and I always see the crank look like that. Collar I made up. Just gotta flont the piece, lol. Im not saying there isn't a design flaw, but there is this one issue that is easily taken care of.

X2

I agree. I think the clearances tho is a good place to start and does drastically reduce the chances of failure. As we can see in the picture with the big crack on the flat. I am happy to see a tooth design built. Good idea! But how is this for smashing the limiter? This any good for the drifters? or is there a big of a lag when that hits? Exactly.

sorry for the triple post. I just went to the garage to take that pic of the looseness of the N1 pump on the jun collar. I couldnt get a picture of it as the pump cant go on back-words so I cant take a picture and I couldnt unbolt the N1 pump to throw the drive on because one of the screws was on so hard I couldn't get it off. Anyways, when I throw the N1 pump on I can feel the looseness! Very obvious! But since I couldnt get a picture of it I pulled apart a 26 pump to throw the drive on the crank fitted with the jun collar. Feels just as loose as the N1 did so i grabbed a clearance tool and sure enough it was at .012!!!!!! OMG. Way too much! haha. So that is .006 tho of an inch when it should be at .001 tho of an inch. I can post a pic later if you guys want the proof of the tool slipped inside on one of the flats between the oil pump and jun collar. Now, since the N1 pump and the std 26 pump have the same clearance on the pump I would say the collar is at fault. I dont have a std R33 crank to see if the std drive is the same size as the jun collars but from this and in my opinion the jun collars are no good no matter what unless the jun pump has a snug fit which it should being the same company. Who makes a drive that fits the N1 pump PROPERLY? I would like to buy one or two.