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About Murray_Calavera

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    33gtst, nb8a, boosted swift

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  1. My local Nissan dealership is actually really good, no issues with getting parts in... but it's pretty rare I end up ordering anything through there https://jp-carparts.com Getting parts from Japan has always been below cost price from the local dealership, obviously they can't sell something below cost price so any big purchase is coming from Japan and I'll wait the extra few days for the parts. I also use Kudos and Justjap, but for big purchases sometimes it's worth waiting a few extra days
  2. Depends on how much 'common sense' you want to apply. So you can start with the easy one, it will be cheaper to buy a turbo car rather then converting yours. So that leaves it to, how much do you love your current car? My swift is on it's, 3rd engine rebuild, 7th gearbox, etc... you get the idea. It does not make financial sense to do this but I love it and won't let it go. I'm sentimental about cars, my vote is convert it - but go full mental when you do. Eg when you drop the motor in, make sure its forged. When you upgrade the brakes, throw on some 6 pot fronts and 4 pot rears. Try to avoid using any stock turbo skyline parts and go to what the turbo guys are upgrading to and skip the middle step.
  3. I'm not prepared to give up on the anti lag dream. Also, I tune my car myself and it's something I want to learn to setup. I'm not saying I'm going to hit the anti lag at every set of lights, it's going to be used sparingly with common sense in mind.
  4. Hi all, I did a bit of googling and couldn't find anything about when it makes sense to update the exhaust valves to Inconel? My engine build is quickly getting out of hand with all of the, 'while I'm at it I'll also do...' I'm thinking of putting in a set of Supertech valves because I'd like the option of running anti-lag and want it to be as safe as possible. I'm thinking those valves will do a better job of handling the higher exhaust temps. I'm already doing new springs, cams, lifters, all service items - should I add new valves to the list as well? They aren't cheap at around $1,200, so I want to be confident it's money well spent. Cheers.
  5. Plynx, do you have a catch can hidden under there? Looks super sexy. I need to sort out my catch can setup
  6. ooo details on the oil catch can/intake cover please
  7. I never said anything bad about Plastigauge. I'd like to for example, check the bores for size, roundness and taper. I can't see me doing that with anything other then a bore gauge. Decent bore gauges go for around $600ish? Then I'll need a set of mic's, so another $400ish? It's starting to add up real quick. Say I want to use a rod bolt stretch gauge, that's another $350ish? I'd call these tools specialist tools, along with ring cutters, angle gauges, magnetic deck bridge, magnetic base dial gauge etc etc. Some of these are quite affordable but it all adds up. Maybe they aren't 'specialist tools' but that's the sort of thing I'm referring to. Hopefully you can see where I'm coming from and tool hire would make a lot more sense for me in this position. I guess I'll keep sniffing around for a hire shop, if not I'll make do with what I have.
  8. I did a bit of googling and couldn't find any place in Sydney that hire out specialist engine building tools. If someone knows of a company that does that I'd be keen.
  9. Looking forward to seeing the cage in the car
  10. Hi all, I was wondering what peoples experience is with the mechanic checking the machine shop's work after sending the engine off for machining? After chatting with a few machine shops, seems it's pretty common practice that the engine is assembled by the mechanic without any of the clearances or other work performed being checked? I'm in the process of putting my rb25 together and I'm wondering if I just trust the machine shop, or do I drop something like $2,000 in bore gauges/mics/etc and check everything myself. Note I'm not a mechanic so these specialist tools will spend a lot of time gathering dust
  11. Slap has invented the world's first mechanical air fuel ratio gauge. Think of the cost savings, never having to replace another sensor again
  12. Google closed loop and open loop control systems. Get on YouTube if you still can't work out what an open/closed loop control system is. It is very clear you do not understand what each term means. Regarding your 'load map', there are high load areas on the fuel and timing maps, I've never seen a separate map specifically for when the engine is on high load. I hope such a thing doesn't exist because it would be a pain to tune, constantly swapping between multiple maps. While your googling, Google fuel map and have a look on the images, you'll see the maps cover the entire rpm and load range the engine operates in. I was serious about the English as a second language question, do you speak another language?
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