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Murray_Calavera

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Everything posted by Murray_Calavera

  1. Something worth thinking about is, are you prepared to do this job twice? Say you buy the ATR45, and for whatever reason you aren't 100% satisfied. Are you prepared to pull the turbo off, sell it 2nd hand and throw on a $$ turbo? If you can do the labor and tune it yourself, you might only be out of pocket a few hundred $$. Not bad. But if your paying for the install and tune, you could be out of pocket a couple of thousand $$! Maybe that's ok with you, maybe it's not. If you don't want to do this job twice, it might be worth saving up for that big shiny $$ turbo. Hey, if your still not satisfied, you know there is literally nothing better in that category of turbo (and really what your wanting then is a unicorn turbo that makes 20psi at 2000 rpm and flows 500kw which doesn't exist haha). my 2c.
  2. Your in the US, GKTech have a US website. Now your drift button is only $12! https://us.gktech.com/e-brake-drift-button I mentioned Cusco because you said, "E Brake Handle Brake Drift Spin Turn Knob Lock Button" which is how Cusco describe their drift buttons. Also Cusco list the S chassis however exclude the R chassis, which is the problem you say you have. Again hinting that you want a Cusco button. I don't work for GKTech, but I'm curious why you are so hell bent on buying some other brand of drift button when they are all the same thing?
  3. The GKTech website says that their button fits R34. Are you seriously trying to work out if you can make the Cusco one fit? Why pay $40 for a brand name item that doesn't even have their brand name on it? The GKTech button is the same. It's $16.
  4. I'm guessing you are looking for specifically a Cusco brand one? If Cusco don't make an R34 button, why don't you just get one from a company that does? They are all the same... If one of these were next to a Cusco one, could you pick them apart? https://au.gktech.com/products/interior/handbrake-drift-bttn
  5. Do not go to the RB30 dyno results forum, that's a trap and will lead you astray. I'll now teach you the four step process to correctly picking a turbo. Step 1. Look around your house and find the biggest dinner plate you own. Step 2. Bring the dinner plate to your local turbo supply store. Step 3. ??? Step 4. Purchase a turbo that is bigger then the dinner plate.
  6. No worries mate, happy to help. Umm, I'm not familiar with the later model skylines. Does the key have any writing or pictures on it? The only thing I can think of that might be catching you up, some of the earlier model skylines have a latch that if it's down, the boot wont open using the boot release. Maybe check your boot latch and see if it has the 'valet mode' latch.
  7. The top picture means to decide, it might act as a select button when your in a menu as a guess. The bottom picture roughly translates to - If it's the case that you want to cancel turning off the screen, please push the "picture quality" button again.
  8. 1. Look at the fuses indicated capacity, please don't put in the wrong sized fuse 2. Regarding other electrical components, please meet with the sales team 3. Up 4. Injector ENG control 5. Mirror control 6. Cigarette lighter 7. Fuse (can't translate fully, photo too blurry) 8. Mirror heater 9. Starter signal 10. Blower motor 11. Blower motor 12. Electronic components/parts 13. Air bag 14. Meter/gauge 15. o2 sensor 16. Audio 17. Electronic components/parts 18. Brake lights 19. Interior lights 20. Boot opener If you want the translation for #7, post up a high res photo of it. The photo you uploaded is too blurry for me to read.
  9. Hey mate, quick caveat - I'm not native Japanese, but my translation should be close enough for it to make sense. 1. This disk can't be recognised 2. Guide 3. Screen (or referring to the image on a screen) 4. Bird view. I'm guessing this is GPS or reversing camera? 5. Vehicle information (I'm not 100% sure on this one) 6. Map 7. Menu 8. Picture quality 9. Zoom in 10. Zoom out 11. Return
  10. Well I can help with one of these at least. Post a photo of your fuse box and I'll translate it for you.
  11. Sounds good, nice to have those options too. I more so want to have the park light input in case in the future I was to use the day / night mode. Not the ambient light adjusting but the full colour change for either day or night. I probably won't use it, but maybe I'll get bored one day and set it up.
  12. Hi all, As part of my IC7 dash saga, I was wondering how to get the park light input signal for the IC7 dash as the R33 doesn't have a dedicated park light on the stock dash. When the park lights are turned on, the dash illuminates, can whatever is causing the dash lights to illuminate be used for my IC7 park light input signal? I've done some googling and found the attached pinout, I was expecting to find everything on a common ground and the illumination to just have a signal/power wire. If I understand what I'm looking at, the dash illumination has both a ground and earth on either connector B 13/19 or connector C 30/25. I am guessing and don't know if either actually do this. Should I be picking up my park light signal from somewhere else? (credit to this guy for the pinout, hopefully it's correct ) http://newprotest.org/details.pl?1610
  13. Google will explain it better then me, but roughly, e85 has a lower energy content so more is needed compared to pump 98. Expect to use an additional 20% to 30% more fuel compared to pump 98. It is worth running, but you just need to size your fuel system appropriately for it.
  14. Is pump e85 available where you are? If your never going to use e85 then you won't need such a large injector.
  15. Yeah they look like they should fit no problem. I would think about getting something a little larger though, around 1000cc just to keep the option of E85 available in future. While those injectors can do 400hp on E85, they'll be close to their limit at that stage. Sorry can't say if those injectors are good or not, never heard of them. A set of Injector Dynamics ID1050x Fuel Injectors are only about $100 (USD) more then those ones and are a proven thing, I'd be looking at going with a set of ID1050x.
  16. Yep, that's why I prefer to ask what size turbo and what their MPH is if they have taken it down the 1/4 mile.
  17. Let us know what tyre size your running when you report back
  18. I think we are talking about different things here. I'm talking about a 100% stock car, stock side mount, stock exhaust, stock boost levels, everything factory. And this is assumed, the car never sees the track (the car is 100% stock after all. I think it's almost a guarantee that someone that drives their Skyline on the track, the car would not be 100% stock). Now this 100% stock skyline that is not driven hard, is there still value in a Nistune or standalone? Also worth mentioning, I'm not saying I don't think it's worth getting an ecu/Nistune. At this point in time, I'm still on stock turbo & stock injectors. But I do have a haltech, IC7 dash, I/O expander box, haltech wideband, flex sensor and a dozen other sensors. I'm usually the first person to say get an ecu - but for a 100% stock street only car? What's the point?
  19. If you do get an ecu for your stock-as-a-rock gtt, I'd be interested to see back to back dyno results. Even better if the tuner is happy to print you out a graph of the stock run with the new tune laid over the top. We are not talking about a car with bolt ons, running 10psi then getting an ecu. I really can't see a 100% stock car benefiting much from an ecu. The many other benefits of having an ecu, I'd be surprised if the owner of a 100% stock car cared about the features the ecu provides. I'm very happy to be proven wrong with data though and keen to see the results.
  20. Unless your going to upgrade your turbo and fuel system, there isn't much point in 'tuning' your stock car. The factory have already done an amazing job tuning your stock ecu. If those small mods you mention do include chasing more power, then I'd look at getting a plug in ecu from either Haltech or Link.
  21. Can't you just get this here? https://www.haltech.com/downloads/discontinued/ Am I missing something?
  22. I haven't gotten around to it yet but I'll play with those numbers when I do and see if it's the same for 33 gtst.
  23. It's a 4th gen Subaru Impreza. I'll eventually get to the bottom of it, when I do I'll post up the outcome.
  24. I think the problem with cheaping out on the ecu is, you'll likely want more power in future. You've already said you had originally planned to keep it stock... I think once you're at 300kw, you'll be saying the same thing again. Maybe just 400kw and I'll be done... To future-proof yourself, I'd say look at something around the Haltech 2500 range.
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