Murray_Calavera
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Posts posted by Murray_Calavera
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Checked for spark?
Checked for fuel?
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Any chance you know how much timing your running to make that power?
Did your tuner say what the limitation was when they were tuning (eg knock? boost control issues? etc)
And final thought, if you are able to easily source e85 where you live, I'd 100% recommend using it. But before you go back for the flex tune, you probably want to get some bigger injectors. On e85 I see you maxing out those 1050cc injectors real quick.
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3 hours ago, Lvonn1 said:
Hey MinKer,
Where abouts did you get that table from ?
Workshop manual.
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@MBS206 yeah it's a short run from battery in boot to pump
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1 hour ago, MBS206 said:
"the fuel pump wiring is handling 20amp"
It's 12 gauge Tefzel wire. Should be right for 20 amps.
1 hour ago, MBS206 said:unless you've measured current
I've clamped the fuel pump wiring, it measured around 20 amps. I can't remember the exact figure, I did it a while ago now, but it was around 20 amps.
Still, lots of good info in this thread now. I'll keep investigating and post back with what ends up solving the voltage problem.
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11 minutes ago, Tim32 said:
So with an aftermarket ECU it gets tuned to handle the BOV? and why doesn't an aftermarket ECU use the MAF sensor? Do they all not use the MAF? Do they just have everything programmed into the ECU?
It doesn't get tuned to handle the BOV as such, with an aftermarket ECU, you can use a MAP sensor instead of the MAF sensor. In short, the MAP sensor doesn't care about your atmo venting BOV and your mixtures will remain correct.
An aftermarket ECU could choose to use a MAF sensor, but not many people do. I haven't used a MAF sensor in something like 20 years. They are a pain in the arse to mount correctly so that the air flows through the way the sensor wants it to (in your now custom intake to suit your bigger turbo etc), they are a restriction in the intake, they have limitations in the volume of air they can accurately measure, you can't use an atmo BOV as you've discovered, etc.
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6 minutes ago, MBS206 said:
If it's an original "dumb" style alternator, you should be seeing your voltage running, in the 14s
A healthy lead acid, charged, is 12.8V, so if your engine is running, and you're seeing 12.8V, you have issues.
If you're at 13V, you have very little power going back into the battery.
I'm going to guess you probably need better wiring to the fuel pump too, as I bet you have a voltage drop on your wiring to the pump too, and it's probably seeing sub 12V
Yep, factory alternator.
Fuel pump wiring isn't bad. Not perfect, but isn't bad. The gauge of wire has no issues supplying the 20 amps, the only issue is I'm using the factory connector in the fuel pump hanger which I'd be amazed if they are rated for 20 amps... but nothing has melted so far lol. It's also got the typical relay direct power from battery etc.
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8 minutes ago, Tim32 said:
Yeah vents to atmosphere... So the issue I think is that the stock ECU isn't accounting for the loss of air and effectively it's a vacuum leak, so it will run rich and foul plugs etc?? is that right?
Basically, yep.
However I can't see you fouling plugs from that alone though (not enough time spent in the rich condition to do anything meaningful to the plugs).
If I cast my mind back 15 or so years ago to the I last time I saw this actually happen in person, it just made the car really grumpy for a few seconds and nearly stall and only really had any effect at low speeds/low engine speeds.
For sure this is the perfect excuse to get an ecu, delete the maf sensor and keep the bov lol.
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54 minutes ago, Tim32 said:
after market BOVs with stock ECUs being trouble... which this has
You can have an aftermarket BOV that 100% recirculates (the same way the factory one works)
Does your BOV vent to atmosphere?
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Well, good news. The fuel pressure situation is a million times better. Please see attached dataz.
@Dose Pipe Sutututu what battery voltage would you expect to be seeing? When I'm puttering around it floats between 12.8 to 13 volts and when punching through the hills its about 13 to 13.2 volts. Are these normal values?
But yeah, I'm so glad I don't have to dig this fuel pump out again lol.
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I'd hate to think how many tables you'd need to have a constant perfect tune for all driving conditions without a wideband lol.
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15 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Maybe go log your voltage vs. RPM as you doodling around town. The issue could be your alternator is cactus which has been supplying fluctuating voltage to the rest of your car thus killing your pump early.
Should I be logging ecu voltage or battery?
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I haven't logged any data yet, but I wanted to bounce this off everyone while I'm waiting to take the car out for a proper run.
So the car was very hard to start this morning, finally fired and I took it to Supercheap to test the battery. Turns out the battery was low on voltage (can't remember the exact figure) and down about 250cca from where it should have been. Even though their simple battery tester said the battery was "fine, just needs a charge" they replaced it under warranty, pretty happy with that.
Could a failing battery be the cause of the pump failing to keep up? The pump is pretty hungry, it pulls something like 20 amps from memory but I don't know how much this all matters when the car is actually up and running and the alternator is doing its thing.
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Very nice
On the plus side, it isn't too hard to hook up the power you have if your prepared to use semi slicks on the road... But then you'll be back to chasing more power so maybe don't get sticky tyres lol.
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1 hour ago, The Bogan said:
Cheap Australian wine = yes
Cheap tyres = no
Simple but effective
I wish our beer was subsidised the way our wine is lol.
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1 minute ago, silviaz said:
Really even though they save a ton of time with the copy paste it's still the same price as a full tune? I thought it was a time thing where the more time they spend the more money they charge, now if the adjustments take the same amount of time then that makes sense to me, or am I missing something?
Oh you sweet summer child. It might be easier to look at this from the Euro scene, in this case a Golf Gti. A super quick google...
https://www.mountune.com.au/products/m52-golf-gti-stage-1-power-upgrade-mk7-5-only
$1,175 for a "stage 1" tune.
https://www.vagparts.com.au/products/volkswagen-golf-gti-mk7-tuning
Oh it's on sale! $800 for a "stage 1" tune.
So, in these instances the car never sees the dyno, no mechanic ever sees the car, no tuner touches the car. You hand over a large sum of money and you get a copy paste flash tune uploaded to your ecu.
So much of the tuning industry is like this.
Why would a tuner, turn down the opportunity to extract a minimum of $1,000 from you? It's an easier pill to swallow for the average customer when they sell it as a "full tune". Oh I'm sure they'll happily bill you for more if you want something special done on top, but the price of admission will always be for a "full tune".
I really hate to be so cynical about this but it's reality. The obvious solution is to tune the car yourself.
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This is a pretty good visual for what we are talking about
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Big no vote from me. I like being able to stop when it's raining.
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It would be worth getting in contact with Supertech, they do 4032 pistons.
Would also be worth contacting the big players in the forged piston game. The modern coatings used on the piston skirts allow for tighter piston to cylinder wall clearance, you might find that your happy to run a 2618 piston with a modern coating.
Also, how much power do you expect to make and what fuel will you run?
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15 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
With sphericals you have to exercise a little extra paranoia. There's a number of things to be paranoid about. The parranoia may well be true paranoia, but the consequences of anything bad actually happening can be pretty dire, so the effort spent is probably worth it.
This list may not be complete, in fact probably isn't. It's just what rolls around in my head.
If they get scores on them then they can crack. So a piece of grit that manages to get dragged inside might bring you undone.
If they come loose at all (on the adjuster locknuts) then they can rotate to the point where they bid at one end of travel because they're not centered any more. Perhaps, if they have loosened, then this won't load them enough to cause them to fail, but it is well known that they should not be operated such that they reach the limit of rotation.
Depending on what other noises are around, you may not hear them moving if they are significantly worn, but if they are significantly worn, because they are such a small ball relative to the lever length of the arm, a little freeplay can result in quite a loss of control of arm angle/position.
If they get wet they can rust.
Sounds good.
So I don't need to do anything extreme like attack them with a pry bar to see if there is a mm of travel or anything like that?
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27 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
When I had urethane bushes in various of my suspension arms, I used to grease them regularly and probably replaced them at ~5 yr intervals. I found this to be annoying, but fine.
I now have harder rubber bushes in some arms, sphericals in others. The rubber ones get no attention at all and if they ever die and they are not available, I will just either buy complete new arms of the same type, or maybe buy sphericals to go onto them (which is usually possible). The existing sphericals I have demand regular attention. I clean and grease them at least annually and have replaced some of them at least twice, across the 6 or so years that they have been on the car. Although the front caster rod sphericals have been on the car for nearly 20 years and they are trouble free.
Slightly off topic question, but this jogged my memory -
Is there anything special you need to do to inspect the spherical bushes / is it obvious when they become worn?
I also do the some poly, some spherical and it might be the case that I've had some spherical bushes for maybe 5 years? without any thought/maintenance/they haven't been touched since installed....
I've always associated worn bushes with clunking noises, so no clunk, no issue, but I'm guessing this isn't actually best practice lol.
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1 hour ago, morboost said:
have noted that, but qld regs on this would be the same as other states could be wrong I only know vic and nsw
Having moved from NSW to QLD, I can tell you that QLD rego is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy easier to sort. It's not even close.
My R33 is mod plated, everything is listed, I couldn't believe how easy and pain free the process was compared to the NSW engineering process (which I have also gone through previously and is not a fun experience).
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2 hours ago, morboost said:
can anyone explain how motive seams to always be driving his r32 on road with harness, fixed back seats with a rear seat, is the car not really regoed and he get away with trader plates or rally rego or no f's given?
Heaps of ways you could do it. Lets assume its not just zero f's given.
Plan out the route with a mate. Have your mate drive in front of you, say about 1km ahead. If they spot a RBT site/defect station/highway patrol hiding by the side of the road, your mate calls you. You see the call come in and you pull over straight away. Find a side street to turn off or do a U-turn etc. If your super paranoid have a car follow behind to spot any highway cars on approach so you can quickly turn into a side street etc.
For sure he would have enough mates/community resources to be able to pull this off with ease.
Having said that, what I think is actually happening is, he knows the areas he is driving in. He knows there are never RBT sites set up there and just keeps an eye out for police/highway cars and picks his moments for when he is going to do a pull.
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Yeah, that harness really does scream, please defect me!
For anyone wondering, you can use a harness on the road but it needs to automatically retract the same way the stock seatbelt retracts (and I'm assuming its a quality harness that is installed correctly). Still needs to be signed off by an engineer, but it would be easy to get signed off on (this is for NSW in any case).
Rear suspension upgrades
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
Hmm I'm going to approach this from the other side...
What is the car doing that you don't like or what would you like the car to do that is currently isn't doing (handling wise that is)