BLACK34

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Original Nissan Black Mirror for R34 - Driver's Side - $100 In excellent condition - no major marks or scratches In perfect working order Underneath the mirror it reads: NISSAN MURAKAMI 5993 1321 Pickup from Port Melbourne or can post Australia wide at buyers expense.

I'm after the driver's side mirror (not just the glass but the whole casing) for an R34. Preferably want it in black to match my car, but open to other colours if black not available.

Great tutorial. You said you would be doing the driver door next. Do you have pics / tutorial of that? Is it any different from the passenger side? e.g. does the handle need to be removed as this is different from the passenger side.

do you have side mirrors? what colour is the paint?

Yes, H1's can be used for all R34's for both low beam and high beams.

I just did this a couple days ago on my R34. You don't need to remove the headlight housing itself, just remove the globe by unscrewing the big wheel-shaped plastic bit directly behind the headlight. However this is harder than it sounds due to one small little screw that can make your life hell (well it made mine for about half an hour anyway). There is a screw in place at the bottom of this plastic wheel that stops you from spinning it. You need to undo the screw first. The screw head (on my car anyway) is not your standard screw, it's not even a phillips head shape. Its some weird star shape and I have no screwdrivers that can undo it. So in the end I just ended up using my screwdriver to jam it open (not ideal, but I was frustrated). When you replace the globe, any H1 globe will do. Make sure you get 55W and not 100W. I bought a Phillips one for around $10.

Can anyone confirm this? I thought 98RON was the recommended fuel, NOT 95. I drive a stock R34 that only has aftermarket exhaust and pod. I have only ever used 98 fuel, but are you saying I could now switch to 95?

I would stick with the 1.1mm gap as your car is fairly stock and ur running standard boost. From what I have read, you should only use 0.8mm gap if you have increased your boost.

Great post, but I think this needs to be updated. Just went on the NGK website and the recommended plug for my R34 GTT is PFR6G-11 Your post doesnt show what the P or F mean. Also, after a search of the forum I found that most people are using BKR7E or BCPR6ES. Howcome nobody seems to be using the PFRxG-11?? Is it because these are a new model?

I have no doubt it would fit a 98 model. Judging from the pics, I have the exact same kit on my 98 model. Question: Does anybody know the name of this kit? I had this kit already fitted on my car when I imported it so I don't know much about the kit. I have the same front, sides & rear as pictured in 1st post. Also, how much would this kit have costed all up brand new? I'm trying to get an online quote with GIO Car Insurance and under the "modifications" section it asks for Full Body Kit or Partial Body Kit and then the value. I have no idea what price to give. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers.

Yeah I know that an aftermarket gauge would be much more accurate than the standard one, but I want to keep my car looking as stock as possible which is why I really want to try and get the standard gauge working.

I'm still not exactly sure if I'm looking at the map sensor so I have taken a photo of what I think it is (red arrow) Is that the map sensor? If so, does it look right? Also there is a plug close to there (yellow arrow), what should be plugged into that? Also, does anyone have a photo or know of a link with pics that describe what each visible component is under the bonnet of the R34 GTT? Similar to what I have done with the above photo but one that covers most, if not all parts under the bonnet.

Does anyone know if these same instructions apply to the R34? I need to replace a dead globe and can't figure out how to get it out.

Hi all, My R34 came shipped from Japan without the factory boost gauge working. Everything else in the car works fine. I'm assuming the previous Jap owner had an after-market gauge and probably pulled it out (along with any wires) before selling. My question is: What should I be looking for under the bonnet? I'm thinking that the original wire that goes to the boost gauge was either disconnected or removed. Would this be right? If so, can someone tell me where this wire can be found in the bonnet of an R34? Thanks in advance.

Very good point! I would also like to know the load rating for an r34 alternator?? I want to get the biggest battery the car can handle without the alternator burning out.

Well I have a '98 model R34 GTT which I imported myself from Japan and it came with the battery in the bonnet. Now I'm curious as to whether this is standard for my model or if the previous Japanese owner moved the battery from the boot to the bonnet. Can anyone confirm where the factory battery was placed for my model skyline?

This may be a noob question, but why do most people opt to install the battery in the boot instead of in the bonnet where it belongs? Is it only because the after-market battery is simply too big to fit in the bonnet where the old battery was, or is it for another reason?

Hey, what brand and CCA rating is your battery? I too am looking for a new battery for my R34. I'm looking for a fairly top of the range battery that will be able to handle my alarm and sound system. Cost is not an issue, I just want something that is high capacity and will be able to handle music being played while the car is off and not go flat. I have read the group buy link (yes all 12 pages) and it seems to me that a dry cell battery is the way to go. However I want to mount mine in the bonnet and not in the boot as has been suggested. Optima seems to be the best brand to get (although these are deep cycle which is prob not what i want?). Does everyone agree? Also, If I go for Optima should I get yellow or red top? Can anyone recommend a brand and model that will be suitable for what I want?

I'm changing my gearbox oil soon and have decided to go with the Red Line Shockproof. My question is... Should I use the SuperLight or the LightWeight??? I tend to thrash my car a fair bit. FYI the SuperLight is rated at 70W90 and the LightWeight is rated at 75W140. P.S. I have an R34 GTT.

Could sum1 check mine please? ER34-003714 Noob question: Does this mean that my car was the 3714th R34 ever made?

Thanks for the advice guys. Just to let you know what happened.... I took the car back to the exhaust place today and they were pretty good about it cos they realised they stuffed up. So they kept the car for a few hours and organised for an auto-electrician to fix the wiring. However as I started driving the car it was still stalling and performing as though nothing were fixed at all. After some frustration, I realised that it may have been a blown fuse. We checked the fuse box and found that the fuse for the O2 sensor was blown. Once this was replaced, car was back to normal

Hi Guys, A couple days ago I took my skyline to an exhaust place so that they could replace my factory exhaust with a 3" system all the way through. The job was done and everything seemed fine, until today when I was driving and my car stalled. I kept re-starting it, but it stalled about 10 times before I managed to get home. Upon inspection under the bonnet, I found that the wiring on the Oxygen (O2) Sensor was completely melted. Obviously what had happened was that when these guys disconnected the sensor to fit the new exhaust, they were not careful when re-connecting and left it dangling on the hot pipe. While driving, the pipe got hot and melted the O2 sensor. Now my question is.... what should I do??? I'm thinking of going back to the exhaust place and telling them to fix it, but what if they say no? What if they try and charge me more to fix it? Can I report them to anyone if they refuse? Help....

Info about changing wipers is good, but I dont understand how just changing wipers can add an extra 10kw ATW??