DaShMiEsTeR

I've been on these forums for quite some time now. Always was a fan of this thread and have most of these r32 pictures saved lol. I have one here of when I first had her - probably around the time i joined up to SAUS. and a more recent one annoying that i took it from this angle chasing a kit and some wheels finally

I am about to call the Auto Electricians. I hooked everything back up and went to test the circuit and now my car won't even crank or switch on the Accessory lights!!! I have checked every fuse and remounted/cleaned the grounded terminal on the car that the battery feeds to. ANY HELP would be appreciated.

Was only about $50 all up from Super Cheap for the following: Approx. 3-6m - 25AMP Wire ( I got varying colours for Negative and Positive and a third for the headlight switch circuit - plus bright colours were cheaper) Approx. 3m - Any lower gauge wire because it only needs to switch the relay. x1 Pack of Ring connectors for the battery terminals x1 30Amp12V Relay with DUAL 87s (mine is 'Hella' brand) x1 30Amp12V Switch x1 30Amp 12V Fuse holder x2 generic plastic plugs (x2 sockets (+) & (-)) for HID negative and positive for easy removal in the future. x2 Red & Black tape for labeling and insulation In addition to the above I have used: -A soldering iron with rosin core -some left over bits of heat shrink to make it neat -Some old speaker cable with zip ties for trace line -multi-meter to check voltage rates -can of Contact Cleaner

This is an updated version of what I ended up with. Still not working yet though!

I have the whole setup in at the moment. I am kind of stumped with wiring the switch in. I have nothing else but the harness hooked up to the battery. I used the 2nd configuration in the link here --> http://www.bcae1.com/swrelay.htm I have tried a few ways to wire it in but this seems to be right. I am not sure if I should ground the switch also but I am going to try my friends HID ballast's this weekend because it could be those. I have 3 sets of bulbs so I am certain it is not those. I will post a picture of what outcome I get. I am positive the lights will be much brighter than those running HID's on OEM wiring. The thicker gauge wiring and shortened circuit will attribute to this.

This is what I ended up with. I am waiting for the car battery to charge fully before I give it a try. I stupidly forgot to take a picture of it before I started wiring it in. There is also a 30A fuse in between Battery + and the Relay "Power In" (30).

hey guys, I am sure this is a recurring problem for all 32 users experiencing problems with this circuitry. I have spent a few hours looking for information on this but nothing is shedding light on the problem. This is the forum I have found most relative but its 2006! -> http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry5275351 My old rotary headlight switch started playing (LHS turning off then Driver's side etc etc) up so I replaced it with one from the wreckers. I have noticed this one is heating up also and those little black pins will distort within a few months and I will be back at square one. It will be the same when buying a new one. However, I did find a useful link -> http://www.danielste...ays/relays.html From the above forum and I am using the R32 Car Manual. I have begun creating the harness but I need tips on how to remove the old wiring? With the relays in the new circuit will it eliminate the need for those tiny springs inside the headlight switch? I feel that part, the heating (due to resistance) and the OEM low gauge wire running all the way to the headlight switch are redundant and need to be replaced completely. let me know what you think. -Damien N.B I have PM'd some of the members in the forum above.

I left mine in and when I got my belts done next I got them to take it off. No extra charge and no messing around.

yo mate, did you get all this done? for the carbon canister just want to know what you did with the one underneath the throttle. do you block it? could you post a pic? what did you replace all the metal tubing with? I wanted to do it but extending the line to the BOV would make it crazy long. cheers

how do i do that?

i was afraid of that. i wired it up. 1st time was a dull attempt i must admit. but the second time i made sure everything was soldered/heatshrinked and secure. the pins were nicely revealed facing the socket. they were in correct order. although i may have had them in reverse at first....could that be the fault? btw i had to go to global auto spares to buy 2 little slider socket things which are a B$%^ to find for those faced with this problem. do they need to be heatshrinked right until the end so there is absolutely no copper exposed? do u think by extending the lines i may be "altering" the signal ? cuz the cables were way too short to work with. do u have a pic of ur wiring?

....and if i did this with the stock ecu still in what would happen? my 32 is not starting after i put a z32 AFM in with the stock ecu. so i removed the stock ecu and battery. put dr drift ecu/battery back in. now the engine will not fire. pretty sure the ecu is tuned to remove the lean-derivative when adding the z32 but could i need a bigger fuel pump/injectors? I got it off a friend who had it running fine on his rb20 sil with z32AFM - he was also running 16psi vs my stock 11psi. i will post a picture of the wiring to the z32 AFM as i had problems with it reading the signal at all. any help would be much appreciated. checking plugs/battery terminals and further vac seal testing tomorrow.

any news on this? I know that with time the spark plug looms get a little brittle from the amount of heating up and cooling down they do. Try replacing the loom ? ($200 from Nissan or a lil less from Autobarn) I know it should have come up on the compression test but sometimes you need the timing light to check the spark on each coilpack. Are you running aftermarket coilpacks? an update would be great. cheers

grrrr. even though mine is setup correctly now it is still blowing enough blue smoke to fill the street? makes me want to convert back to stock my catch can has a breather running up the middle and a top mount so i have blocked the top but not the bottom onel

for some reason i set up mine wrong (plenum ball bearing thingy blocked) and it started blowing a sh%t load of blue smoke. so definitely dont set it up that way. grrr now i know tho

all good had the eprom pic ready to go. i posted a few of these on forums. this one being the last so its missing ALOT haha SOLD

all good had the eprom pic ready to go. i posted a few of these on forums. this one being the last so its missing ALOT haha SOLD

MUST have a z32 AFM in order for it to work. Can post at buyers expense. reason: Sold the car in which this was on. contact: Damien - 0449-160-872 Gold Coast delivery methods: can post at buyers expense or pickup

contact: Damien - 0449-160-872 Gold Coast delivery methods: can post at buyers expense or pickup

location man?

great write up looking to do this to my 32 soon (have ecu, z32AFM only the turbo left to source!!!) what made you decide between a vG30det and a rb25det??? better results ? because i heard the vg30 is quite laggy in the lower rpms and to be honest rb20's (unless they have been opened up) have no bottom end response - before the turbo starts to spool. Though a tune could most probably fix this - what kind of EMS are you running? Damien

what is the difference between putting the pod filter lower where the pipe's inlet is or doing a setup like the above?

what is the difference between putting the pod filter lower where the pipe's inlet is or doing a setup like the above?

is there any dyno results etc? do you have a rough idea on how much power its pulling?

sweet... well if he confirms it.. its sold