MBS206

On a 20amp run, on "12V", if you're getting power for the pump direct from battery in the boot, you should be good on 12AWG. If the wiring is from up front, you want to get to a 10awg.

Seconding Taipan. Either alternator is worn out, and dieing, or you've added some hectic load and it can't keep up. Also, you say "the fuel pump wiring is handling 20amp", how do you know? Have you put a current meter inline? The fuel pump will be wanting 20amp at a set load, at a set voltage, as that load, is what pushes the resistance electrically for the fuel pump (an unloaded electric motor, in theory draws zero amps). Now if you've got the load, but less volts, you've got less amps, which means less torque, so the pump won't run as quick. Add in, all wire has resistance, if you get 0.25ohm resistance in your wire in total, and run 20amp through it, you have 4v drop in the wiring alone. That means on a 12V supply, your pump now only sees an 8V potential across it, not the preferred 12V. If your pump is meant to draw 20a at 12V, that gives it an impedance of 0.6ohms, add in another 0.25ohms, in wiring, and realistically, your pump is now only actually getting 14amps, at about 8.4v... Let's say wiring is perfect, and we expect 14.4V output from the alt, and that is giving you your 20amp pull. Then your pump has an impedance of 0.72ohm. now let's say your alt is cactus, and only giving 13V out, now we've dropped to 18amps. If we claim flow to be linear as we alter voltage, then we've lost 10% of your flow. The above is to indicate, unless you've measured current, you've no idea what it's really getting, only what it's rated for at a given voltage. Shove a multimeter at the battery positive with one prob, and then on the positive feed into the fuel tank with he other probe, check out what the DC voltage is. That alone is giving you your voltage drop from battery to fuel tank lid.

If it's an original "dumb" style alternator, you should be seeing your voltage running, in the 14s A healthy lead acid, charged, is 12.8V, so if your engine is running, and you're seeing 12.8V, you have issues. If you're at 13V, you have very little power going back into the battery. I'm going to guess you probably need better wiring to the fuel pump too, as I bet you have a voltage drop on your wiring to the pump too, and it's probably seeing sub 12V

Except Hondas normally don't need to worry about someone behind them...

You'll end up hating the BRZ... Again...

I'm sorry, but @Duncan has alluded to the solution already. Make it look like it goes to a catch can, but vent it directly to the ground behind the rear wheels. Guy behinds problem now

I think the problem you're likely to see, is oil separating while in the tube, and accumulating in it, and then you'll end up with an air lock effectively. That is the main concern I feel will occur. So may not happen immediately, and main tell will be motor appearing to be awesome as catch can has no / very very little oil accumulating in it.

So you'll now accept a non yellow Suzuki Swift?

Also, meant to say, on the EV side of things, the weight part is definitely an issue regarding EV acceleration, but oddly, if you're smart, you can get the car to handle REALLY well. All that weight, is mounted stupidly low. Also, how awesomely you can get a 50/50 weight balance properly! And you might not have all the power in a straight line, dayum, you can make some ground up in a corner with low CG and better weight balance! Oh, add to that, companies now starting to do EV Cars with quick swap batteries, like the way bike companies have done EV bikes. Would be a good setup for track days, and even endurance races, just need some better cooling for longevity of power... Also the 10/15 minute session and charge for 45/50 minutes could work if the race tracks had some normal 3 phase chargers. Even better if they had a HUGE charger like the BP Servos do...

It's easier to get the Barra to fit, than an LS. There's more room to fit the exhaust past the steering column with a Barra, then there is with the LS. Engine fits in with a radiator, it's "tight" but not really any tighter than some modern cars these days. While you talk about making RB power, the part most people don't really notice, is the amount of torque they make. They make power lazily like the LS does. IE, look at a Barra NA motor from a BA, makes only a couple of KW less than an RB25DET, EXCEPT, it also makes an extra 100nm of torque. Barra makes power, lower in the power band. If you make the same amount of power in motor A at 5,000RPM, as you are at 6500RPM in motor B, (Barra A, RB B in general), than that is already showing an additional 30% torque, as you're passing 5,000RPM. When you also match the barra gearboxes, and retain skyline diffs, you end up with even more fun, as you end up with some pretty short ratios But yes, after having an LS in the engine bay, and a Barra in the engine bay of the same car, yep, the Barra is definitely easier to drop a Barra in. Plus, not many twits on this forum would put an LS in and then not add two turbos into it However, there's also less twits on this forum who'd put a Barra in and not turbo it either.... But I think we found both of them

The low down on this is, it's not terribly hard. Mine isn't finished as I don't have money to drop, or when I have money, I don't have time (I don't pay people to play cars for me). But if you have the money: Engine mounts are available off the shelf. I made my own, to get the engine even lower. The mounts aren't expensive. Gearbox mounts for 6 speed ford box are available off the shelf. For about $1,500 a custom wiring loom can be built for you (I modified my own factory Ford one) - Hootons Harnesses is my recommendation here. For about $400 someone will unlock the ECU for you. For about $100 you can get a bolt in accelerator pedal bracket. You will need a new radiator, or to modify an alloy skyline radiator. You need good thermo fans and a shroud made (electric fans). You'll need a custom tail shaft made. $1000-$1500? You'll need custom intake made, and a custom exhaust. You'll need a FMIC setup and intake piping to suit as part of the above. Custom PS lines, few hundred $$$ Then you need an engine and gearbox, these are not what they were worth when I bought mine, and I haven't looked super recently, but for an FG XR6T with Y speed manual, plan for a minimum of $5k, for second hand, 200k km + motors. Yep, expect to be looking at rebuilding the motor. Oh, and if you've gotten this far, and spent probably close, or over $10k in parts (before an engine rebuild, of which you should do a few mods to that motor even if you don't rebuild it) if you can't do the work yourself, throw another $10k in labour in, and then expect to have lifelong issues. Personally, the Barra fits and is easier than an LS swap. However, if you're looking for the "best" motor you can swap in, and not a budget limit, no BS, I'd 100% start looking at crate EV motors... Until you drive a decent EV, you've no idea how quickly they'll obliterate an ICE engine in a straight line and around a curve. However, don't expect to be able to do heaps and heaps of laps at a track day, as batteries will warm, and the control unit will lower power output when they get hot. However, daily driving, long term ROI, and avoiding potential issues with old ICE car tax in the future, it's a great plan! But an EV swap will suck the life and soul out of your skyline...

I can make it bright yellow for about $50 in Rattle Can paint. Then, in reality, it'll be like the yellow M&M. Yellow on the outside, black underneath! I actually washed it yesterday so I can advertise it. I really should write the advert now and post it, ha ha

Nah, I'm happy with just cash, I don't need two zinger burgers too, happy to help a fellow SAU'er out...

Can trade for 2010 Suzuki Swift Sport, cash my way. I know what I have...

Oh man, Id forgotten about the old cut the wire to beat the 180kmh speed limiter, ha ha ha!

Oxford dictionary agrees with your definition, but provides secondary definition, and an informal definition to also say they disagree with you. Ha ha ha I myself, for the most part agree with your sentiment.

If you'd have fitted that LSD when you did the clutch, you probably wouldn't need to worry about shutting the traction control off... See, we're all supportive here... Supporting/enabling, same same, yeah?

Have you sorted the whole "tearing sub frames out under brakes"? Also, what have you got done in the way of ducting to keep the brakes cool? What is the air into, and out of that area like for flow? Do you feel there's a possibility you're straight up lacking some cooling flow to keep things going? I know you've got a lot of grip, and power, but not even a full hot lap without fade on the original brake setup, I'd be expecting myself a TOUCH more out of them. But maybe that's just my personal view. Just thinking when the production car guys can go lap after lap after lap on stock brakes (yes with less power and aero, but a LOT more stops in a row). Just my thoughts on it.

That's fair that it won't be everyone's taste. I feel in person it looks different to the pics. I will say, as long as a daily driver looks okay, I'm fine with it. Ha ha I do have to question though, everyone saying diesel having all these higher maintenance costs. Even the Landcruiser guys claim the same stuff. But I've had my Landcruiser since start of 2015, and per km, it's costing the same to maintain as the petrol landcruiser. When I ask the question of what everyone is thinking diesel costs more for, I never seem to get any answer. I will say, around town she can be heavy on fuel at 14L/100km. And it's slow. On the freeway I'll get a best of about 13L/100km. Adding our old 3T plant trailer on the back of it, never really changed fuel economy at all. And well, I was already going slow anyway. Ha ha ha That being said, get it in the right gear, and she'll pull hills (slower than a comparative petrol), but definitely pulls better than it would if the motor didn't have the after market factory turbo on it. mine is also tuned conservatively too!

Are you thinking of the ioniq that looks wack? (Because the new ioniq 5 really does). I've got the 22 model EV, and it just looks like every other small/medium SUV.

My main issue I can see a problem with, is in reverse direction, turn one. From the video simulation (the pics they've uploaded previously don't show the changes fully to Final turn normal direction/turn one in reverse). Watch the simulation they've made, and in reverse, as you get to the first turn, you need to kink right, but until your right there, the old track for straight to the old turn is fully visible, and looks to be where to go. They've then dug DOWN, and made that turn heavily cambered as it goes back the "180 degrees" to the left. From old to new, if you went straight ahead, is a hefty drop. Or more so, a wild airborne ride... As I said, I rather waited to see what it REALLY ends up like, and how they actually do things at the track. But I can see potential on track days for someone to do a straight ahead, get airborne, and be T Boning a car that was previously in front of them. Basically, I'd think they'll have to put some heft tyre barriers there, but that's going to make for one hell of a brutal stop, especially for a bike rider...

Following the video Wakefield Park (One Raceway) posted on youtube of the track going in both directions, I'm intrigued to see what they do for running the track in the counter clock wise direction. Based purely from the track being made and put into a racing game, I can forsee some issues going backwards. They've also changed quite a few of the corners too. It's pretty much just vaguely shaped like Wakefield Park used to be.

If you like being able to get in a car, and it drive and operate like a car, DON'T get a Tesla. I'm presently driving a Hyundai Kona EV. We had a Tesla Model 3 with extended range previous to this, and a Hyundai Ioniq. Literally, Tesla is like an iPad application was made, and then they added a steering wheel and tyres. They're so freaking shit.

The old "Gentleman's agreement". They all kept publishing that number to avoid government intervention. They all kept pushing over it to be quicker than the other guy. It's why I'll say it's smart the Gen4 Supra was more suited/targetted to taking on freeway runs, than taking on the GTR directly. Nissan and Yoda rivalry slightly more apart receiving a little less criticism compared to the Holden Vs Ford in the years gone by with the likes of the GTHO etc.

See, Euro trash. Ha ha ha. And I have to say, you nearly nailed the description of yourself. But you can't be elitist if you can't look down on people. Or see what's on top of the Fridge.