bubba

Only the really powerful cars can transition into big smokey power burnouts up the street though

Found a '68 Camaro looking thing, start it on the brake then power up the street.. it's fist pumping summernats styles!

Well from all the advice I have received (forum users, tuner and mechanic), 400rwhp seems to be an acceptable cap for now. When I decide I want more, engine will come out and get new rods and a balance along with some head/manifold porting.

Removing the fuse is just like unplugging it.. My lockbar didn't come with instructions but it's pretty damn simple.. remove tierods and fluid lines from rack.. remove rack.. install lockbar.. reattach tierods.. loop fluid lines.. get a wheel alignment.

Standard rods? I was told they should handle about 400rwhp but not much more..

+1 even though mine isn't the cheapest of cheapest RB30 builds it's far from expensive. I'm aiming for 400rwhp when the GT35R goes on, I think this is going to be the upper end of the drivability limits of my rwd 32 platform and with my setup I'm probably going to be struggling to keep it down that low for now! There is still headroom for a bit more power too Personally I wouldn't waste money on the RB20 but, of course, I'm biased. The monster torque of the 30 makes for a very nice allround car, I mean I was following Tristan through the twisties on Friday in 4th gear up those hills.. the ol' RB20 wouldn't have liked that much..

Yeah did you use the actuator off your original turbo or off the new turbo? R33 actuator is 5psi, R32 is 10psi. If you are using the R33 actuator and do not have a boost controller of some sorts then yes, it will feel rather gutless

I've done it without removing motor but you need some special things and it's not super easy. We have a brace that sits on the sills up top, support the motor with that and drop the subframe.

I've heard stories of those nylon compressor wheels delaminating before the ceramic turbine lets go.. My ceramic turbine seems to be holding up pretty well considering the exhaust housing is choking my engine and glows on a regular basis..

I got a lockbar for $85, install started with just removing rack, installing lockbar and looping fluid lines at the back of the car. Last time I had my motor out I took the opportunity to rip all the lines out to the front including the big clunky solenoid thing and looped them at the resevoir

Unfortunately it won't go into a default mode where it locks the wheels, they'll just flap about. Get yourself a lockbar, they're cheap and easy to install

Don't bother with the N1 water pump, a standard OEM item will suffice (I've got a standard RB20 item waiting to go on when mine dies), the N1 is designed for sustained high revs and doesn't really like day to day putting around town stuff. I am running an N1 oil pump but it's generally an engine out job to change. Will be fine if you don't sit on the limiter too much I think. My engine is a twincam 30 limited to 6800rpm so I didn't see the need to fork out for a Tomei/Jun oil pump..

My personal opinion is that the s1 turbo is a better upgrade due to the steel compressor wheel, it should be able to make a bit more boost without the chance of it delaminating and being eaten by the engine.. Hell, I'm still running one on my 30 and it's making 12psi at the engine (so roughly ~14psi at the turbo.. don't know what my pressure drop is..) and has been doing so for well over a year as it was on my 20 making the same boost then too

I don't have torque printouts but I have power sheets of RB20 and RB30 running same turbo and boost. Made the same power bit a shitload sooner

You can either use a resistor pack or just wire in the appropriate resistors yourself. Don't bother with the Mines ecu, it's just a gimmick as you will get a full remap anyway..

No that's not normal, can you quantify "no power"?

I've had them fit my fuel pump on one occaision and then 550cc injectors, z32 afm and remap my stock ecu and tune for my 30. No complaints and Andrew is a good guy to deal with

You answered your own question, z32 afm, gtr injectors and a remap.. I would also put a decent fuel pump in there if you haven't already, it's quite likely that your fuel pump is dead and can't supply fuel up top. Another possibility is that with the bigger turbo you're maxxing the afm, if it can't measure anymore air it stops throwing fuel in and hence leans out. So, forget the FCD, get yourself an 044 pump or similar installed intank then get the z32afm fitted along with the GTR injectors and have it tuned/remapped, you will notice a HUGE difference Oh and if it doesn't have a full 3" exhaust, put one on

It's for the stock intercooler.. Anyway, nice work Flash - always good to see another rwd 32 getting a huge power upgrade

My Whistler cost me about $500 and it's fkn great, has picked up everything I'm come across and haven't got done since I purchased it just before Xmas. Save me again last night on Cambridge St

I think I was actually the ONLY black 32 2dr there for a change!

Anyone know the guy with the video camera? I want footage of the tasaring!

My mates' wife is called Morgan, it's a girls name

That's pretty damn interesting

Best thing I ever did to my car was turf the hicas (aside from the RB30)