bubba

Heh I don't really have an "offboost" at the moment, this little turbo is on boost straight away! so can't wait to get the GT35R on and make some decent power

I will be keeping my standard fuel rail and the 550cc injectors I've got in there but have no other option than to go forward facing plenum (space constraints). Will be using a GTR plenum chamber mated to my stock runners (via a flange welded to the cut runners) so I can retain the current injector setup. Any idea what % increase your tuner used on cyl's 5 & 6?

Has anyone got any actual flow figures for a standard GTR plenum? wondering exactly what the difference is in the last 1-2 cylinders and if there's anything I can do while fabricating to even it out somewhat?

Hah I think I've still got a heap left.. I only needed ~150mm but had to buy 1m+.. shoot me a PM to remind me and I'll see if I can get some numbers off it or at least measure it for you

Should be the same deal as putting an RB25 box in a 32 GTSt.. holes in the chassis are ~50mm too far forward for a 25 box..

Give me a buzz and come round some time if you want a hand mate, I'm running one in my car

Ditto, CEF11E's remap sorted that till I could get in for a remap to suit z32 afm and bigger injectors.

It's just cold start, I don't see what the big deal is. I've seen it mentioned many many times before, you shouldn't be driving your car hard until it's warm anyway so just deal. My car has always done it, stock RB20/ecu and now with RB30/remapped ecu, until coolant is up to temp it's in "cold start" and drives like a pig with more than say 5% throttle, so I just don't rev it over 2000rpm or use much throttle until it comes out of cold start.

I took my bov into Coventry's and managed to find some heater hose that was the right size..

I didn't feel the need to be special and have my own thread, if you look through the sticky up the top you'll find a lot of peoples build info in there.

I don't pay retail either but even trade is $_$.. what's your secret?

So they can charge you 3x as much? I remember when a mate bought a knock sensor harness from them.. one wire with a plug on either end.. was well over $100!

What management are you CURRENTLY running?

http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Nissan-RB2...b-Harness-19803 I signed up so I could get a price, IIRC it was about AU$120.

I know people dis the mechanical gauges but if you're smart about routing that little tube (put some small vaccum hose over it and don't put it anywhere it might rub) then they're fine, I would suggest getting one of those as opposed to screwing around with the stock sender/gauge.

Rings a bell, thought they were in Bayswater though.

Hmm you could possibly do it that way but I'm pretty sure at least the sump has to come off..

Try Final Drive in O'connor, there's another mob in Bayswater but I can't remember the name. Steer clear of VEEM.

^^ ROFL NICE!

@ work *smirk*

Oh and replacing oil pump isn't an easy job, it is possible to do it in the car but it's a MAJOR fk around, you need an engine brace to hold the engine from the top and then drop the whole subframe off, sump off, pistons off, crank out. Oh gearbox has to come out and clutch/flywheel off before you can get the crank out. Really, it's a whole motor out job.

Don't bother replacing any of the stock stuff, get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. My stock sender/gauge reads fine (~8 on cold start) but after a bit of driving it barely reads over 0 and this is also very inconsistant. However all the readings on my a/m gauge are good (I won't bother giving you readings as I'm running an N1 oil pump).

When I did my conversion, the RB20 and Rb30 engine mounts/brackets looked identical..

^^ +1 you should never let anyone drive your car unless they can afford to fix it..

shonky i got 3-4 vids of Moby Dick but got pissed off with uploading to youtube last night (takes fkn ages!), if I get a chance after paintball tonight I'll get the rest of them up and when they're all up I'll throw a list up in this thread