bubba

Sounds like he was the designated decoy..

WRFGMG is mates drunk mrs's backing into your car on Australia Day! *sigh*

I made the mistake of re-using the RB30 oil pump, that combined with not getting the crank machined the first time nearly saw my engine let go Ordered an N1 pump ($410), got a backup crank machined and a new set of bearings, now she's all good! Using 10W-40 cold start sees ~100psi, once at normal temp. I get 12-15psi @ idle, 40psi a little over 2k, 60psi a little over 3k and 80psi by redline. Watching my oil pressure gauge shoot up make me a happy man after watching it previously bleed off to 0 at idle O_o

Yeah I've heard some good stuff about them lately and he's building me a pretty damn strong tailshaft

Twincam 3L w/ GT35R.. monster torque. I took a 32 & 33 tailshaft to veem, they said the uni's are on their last legs and the centre bearing has play (the 32 shaft), $900 to build a new one with heavy duty uni's etc. Told them to get stuffed, Final Drive is building me the same thing for about $650.

WHY OH WHY DID YOU HOST THE PIC OF THE MANKINI?! <burns eyes out>

VEEM just quoted me some crazy price.. fair enough it's practically a brand new tailshaft made from 3.25" tube with heavy duty uni's, new centre bearing and a new splined yoke. Anyone had something like this built?

I had to remove my strut brace, have a stock 25DE plenum on there and it rubs slightly on the front corner and also slightly on the timing belt cover.. I spaced the back of the bonnet up 10mm so it doesnt try to buckle the bonnet every time I shut it.. Forward facing plenum will go on with the new turbo, all measurements for the GT35R high mount appear that it will clear as it will sit just below the crossover pipe. Will likely "massage" the timing belt cover slightly, don't need to gain much.. 5mm maybe. Does the 30 have all the ancillaries bolted on? if not you'll need to modify the power steering pump bracket (cut the top boss flush with the lower two), other than that I don't remember anything else that needed modifying (apart from shuffling all the pipework so the bonnet would close!).

Jeebus! that exhaust housing looks twice as big as the one on my new turbo! Mate, you need to get a fuel pump if you plan on mods like this.. should really have been one of the very first things to do! I'm running a Bosch 044 intank, got it off ebay for ~$215 delivered and Hyperdrive installed it along with the required fittings and rewiring for a little under $250 if I remember correctly.. Can you get any more info on the turbo? is there a little plaque with some numbers and stuff somewhere? I'll take a guess and say LAG CITY but when it does comes on boost you will sh~t your pants Post a pic of it and any info. you can find on it, in the Forced Induction forum and someone should be able to help you identify it and its' potential. Once you know exactly what it is you can troll through the RB25 turbo upgrade thread and see if it's been used before and what you'll need to do to extract/withstand the power of that huge huffer Did you get a dump pipe and oil/water lines with that setup? Basic things you will require are fuel pump, ECU, injectors, fmic & exhaust. Things that will need attention once turbo is on and tuned are stronger clutch, stronger diff, better brakes and better suspension. You may have a lot of this stuff sorted already

Ahhhhhhhhhh it's all falling into place now

You have a new fuel pump yes? The oil in the intake will induce pinging but I don't think a catch can would help if it was leaking out the turbo.. once it's in the intake stream the only place it's going is the combustion chamber.. Build up the 30 in your spare time, if you come across a cheap 26 head grab it as if you're taking your time and building properly that's the way to go. 26 head flows better and there's more options out there as far as bolt on manifolds etc than for a a DE head. As for the TD06, sell it on - someone will buy it! Oh and no probs.. was a bit slow at work this morning

I'm 26, make a bundle of cash, have my own house but, I'm content to throw my money at my 32 that cost me 11k.. each to their own.. like others have said, I can't justify buying a car off the showroom floor!

If only grammar could be solved by the press of a button!

CAPSLOCK MAN, CAPSLOCK!

Less timing will make less power. What your tuner was trying to say is, your compression is too high to run +18deg (btw he RETARDED your timing, not advanced it), a thicker headgasket will reduce compression slightly allowing you to wind more timing in. Less compression will also handle more boost but make less power off boost. Your engine was originally NA wasn't it? this would explain the high compression, you will never be able to run as much boost or timing as a turbo engine as the compression ratio wasn't designed for it

You could but I wouldn't be running any boost.. the sort of airflow the T04 will push will flip the ecu out and likely hit R&R straight away! if it doesn't, it's likely to lean out and melt a piston again I think stock injectors will be good for high 200s hp maybe more if you bump the rail pressure up, but that is a dodgy fix. New turbos = tune. Personally if I had just rebuilt an engine and was putting a big turbo on, I would tow it to the tuning shop. I will be doing exactly that once my GT35R is installed, on the back of a truck to the tuners. Another thought.. did you find out WHY you melted a piston?

GTR injectors won't fit your standard fuel rail.. yours are side feed, GTR/RB20 are top feed with the RB20 items being high impedence. Could be possible to get a custom fuel rail but easier to get direct swap injectors (may work out similar in cost once you get a custom fuel rail made and wire up the injectors) Stock ECU will NOT run different injectors without at the least a remap (don't know of anyone in Perth that can remap 33 ecu's..), you will need a PowerFC or something similar (emange ultimate etc etc).

Anyone seen/used/experienced a pre-lube system like this one: http://www.autoenginelube.com/ Thoughts/opinions/experiences please

Sam, my car used to do it with the 20 when I still had the stock fuel pump, nuts with less than half a tank = surge 'n' stall when whipped hard. With the 044 intank it won't surge even with only 1/4 tank of fuel.

The 20 turbo will be way too small.. I have a standard 25 turbo on my for now and that chokes the engine up around 5800rpm, it gets from 245hp down to 90hp by the time it hits the limiter salad has the same turbo but with a VG30 exhaust housing (I think?) and the extra flow on the exhaust side lets it breath to redline.. I think he makes just over 200rwkw.

I'm putting one on my RB30.. would never have contemplated it with the RB20 but, whatever floats your boat

Are you asking what diff ratio to run? I run 3.9s and really like them, acceleration isn't as brutal as the 4.3s but it's much more usable and all round a lot nicer to drive. If you change crown wheels, you need to change the pinion gear aswell, best way I found to do this is get an S13 diff with good pinion bearings and swap that into your 32 (only thing we kept was the 32 backing plate).

I thought that was the cumulative age..

OK well my hopes for the 19T cog were in vain, it's too short to work so I'm just going to run with the 17T for now.

Yeah sorry dan, must have been off running that plasma-drive civic when you got there.. PTEC YO! It's not for Northside btw, both belong to Autowholesale or whatever they're called. I did hear that some of the Nissan bigwigs aren't too happy..