iamhe77

I am with almost everyone else, expecting an accident of something. My wife drives my car from time to time... but not too often, she may be short but she loves boooooosssstttttttt!

HA! That wouldn't have taken much!! You would trade your turbo AWD for a N/A RWD? What is with the NM35 front though? think the Pm35 350s is MUCH nicer (that front bar is awesome).

+1 for the Veruspeed filter. K&N also make a nice oil filter though. Flow rates and filter life are great if you are moving your services out to 10,000kms (have not had a problem doing this... with a high quality oil) Dunno about which ELF oil was in there, but their 100% Synthetic stuff is pretty good oil. You haven't done yours yet? How long have you had your M35? and yes, heaps of clearance to get a stubborn filter off I don't think that it is only the apprentices that do it. Mechs generally over tighten oil filters... and undertray bolts (2 sheared)... and damage wheels... etc

Yeah, mine came with it. Haven't used it yet. Will probably replace it with an LED version if I do use it (I can't imagine that they are re-usable?)

Did somebody say FRONT and REAR Dolphin sway bars? Too much? Go IM or get a set of SK's swaybars

+1... except I wasn't chatting with myself

Yeah, that's about what I am getting at the moment with city driving and giving it a bit of stick here and there (gotta test if the CAI makes a difference... over and over and over )

Why not just use their 100% Synthetic trans fluid? I have it in mine and it feels pretty good.

Dunno what is in it, but all new auto Nissan's have it put into their transmissions. Anyone else is not supposed to have it included in a service, it was just that the guys wanted to put it in when they serviced my trans last year. I would imagine it is a combination of synthetic additives. Certainly made a difference in mine! They did tell me that t was from some company in the US and was designed specifically for Nissan for Nissan transmissions. For some reason, it can be had for $30 if your dealership is friendly towards we "fringe dwellers" with our "underworld-roaming" cars.

Nice buy at that price. Just in case you didn't already know, to get JASMA approval, the exhaust volume must be under 95dB.

Is it when you are at less than ~15kph? In snow mode?? Mine sometimes did this when reversing, but I have replicated it in the above conditions. Get a transmission service... with either Nissan's Matic J AND their transmission additive satchel, or another fully synthetic, high quality fluid (such as Redline, Motul etc). Should clear it up.

Nah, it is because the bolt is seized in the lower shock mount bush (the nut can be taken off, but the bolt will not come out). I don't think it has anything to do with the creaking, I would put that down to the front shocks. I had my Nismo suspension (with the exception of LHR damper) installed and the creaks have completely disappeared.

+1 on finding a wreck. I may need a passenger side rear lower suspension arm (what the bottom of the damper is bolted to) I was actually just after the bush, but it comes as an "all-in-one" unit. *sigh* As you can see from Parts Master at the bottom of the image, it is just another part that is specific to the M35 Any wrecks around? I have not yet contact Nissan requesting a price (my wallet shudders each and every time!).

Cheers mate!

redundant?

PM sent

Who's starting anything? You wanted to know "how so?", so I gave you my opinion on what would be included in a valid, relevant oil test. I understand where you are coming from, but since the engine oil is the main lubricant and protector, I can't see how a simple "power test" can be a measure of how good an oil is. What I was pointing to with the fan is that in the EVO vid, you will notice that the fan is very close to the grill, as opposed to the other oil runs where the fan is a fair bit further away from the EVO. (Not talking about the HSV test). If you are a workshop that is going to do an "unbiased" test of how much power a car can get from certain engine oils, at least make it a test without manipulation.

Yes, well their normal cores anyway.

To perform a "test" like this properly, they should have started with their "power" test, but not vary the distance of the fan from the car. Then they should have run the engines for 100,000km's, torn them down to see what the component wear was like and what condition the oil was in. Does that answer your question? How else would you compare the quality of an oil? btw, I use Motul 300v in my Stagea, but I use the Nulon 10W40 in my wife's car and before you give me that "Fanboy" crap, I want the Nulon to be a superior oil. I want to buy Australian made (and I want to save $100 on oil each service) Yes, the Nulon made a massive difference in my wife's car (a Magna, if you must know), and I will be trying it in my Stagea for my next service (as I have tried ALOT of other high quality oils). I just cannot see how this is a valid test for oil. Testing different fuels? Yes, this would be a valid test, but oil? ... and if you are going to test for power, for god sake keep the fan in the same spot! (for those who missed it, check how close the fan is to the Evo for the Nulon run)

I should mention that the ARC cooler is 100mm and fits behind the RS front bar easily, so you could, in theory, get away with an intercooler that is about the height of the Dolphin unit 190mm IIRC, and be 600mm length which would give you closer to the Greddy volume, but would be very unobtrusive.

Should fit with the standard thermo fan... maybe. I went that size because it looks like it may fit under the bulk of the thermo fan. The fan motor stops us using the taller coolers (unless you remove it for a slimline unit), which is why I went 80mm deep. Should have almost the same volume as one of those huge Greddy units.

LOL. Ghey-est "test" ever.

Good luck finding a core that size. There is a reason it is a custom job. PWR make their own low resistance cores from scratch, so they can do whatever size you need. You may also want to check that it WILL fit. As stated, I have not made a mock-up from cardboard yet (funds are going elsewhere more important - so I won't be anytime soon either), so I would suggest that you make sure it will fit before going any further Andrew.

PWR custom "Aero 2". I have only a rough design which should fit nicely (haven't made up a cardboard unit to see if it will fit). Also need to have appropriate supports added... but for now this is what I am looking at I want to go to 3" piping (thanks again Scotty for the BOV mounting intake pipe ) and have decided to make it the same depth as the OE unit as Iam trying to get as much volume as possible while keeping it as unobtrusive as I can.

Depends where you are located. In Melb (OP locale), you can have a pod, but nothing else to the intake (piping, FMIC etc). The pod MUST in a sealed airbox of it is instant defect... which IS enforced. If you are wanting a pod, look at either; 3A Racing ~$30 (check out the Autosalon comparo for filtration/flow) Blitz SUS Power ~$280 (Stainless Steel mesh pod which never needs replacing - can be cleaned - doesn't have the greatest filtration and is commonly found on extreme HP setups in Japan - 1000hp+) Blitz Sonic Power ~$320 (this is a Blitz LM pod with the alloy enclosure to speed up the velocity of the air and make a certain noise)