iamhe77

How long is "a while" estimated to be Brad? A year? Six months? Also, since it is going to be a while, any chance (broken record time) that he can leave the economy screen as km/L?

Is pocket dyno accurate? If it monitors via GPS, would it give a different reading on a cloudy day as it would with a clear sky? Just wondering.

Good to see that you finally got around to doing it. Will help a bit with the cooling and bleeding I reckon.

No thanks, that red one burns the back of my eye balls and sears the darkest recesses of my brain Only those with an NM35 need consider a facelift. Oh, and it is highly recommended

Dare say I'll be there (if it is more than a couple of weeks away lol)

*sniff, sniff* Is that jealousy I smell in your post Alex? I think so. Mmmmm red V35 fronted Stagea... The black Stagea is full Dolphin PM35 body parts (grill, eye lids, front lip, skirts, rear bar and spoiler). Looks surprisingly good (???!!) Have started wondering what a Y50 Fuga front end on a Stagea would look like....

Setting a precedent?

I like it (except for the red splashes in the interior), but it sounds like it needed another 40kw for a bit more balance?

yes

and this link is where? To quell my curiosity only of course

^ What Alex said. If in VIC, get hold of "Scott nm35" or "Jetwreck" if in NSW.

lol, turbo won't be for a while. Want to get the other stuff sorted first.

Dunno if these are what you are after - the whole steering wheel from a V36 - but they are available on Yahoo Auctions. http://page5.auction...tion/e119414669 http://page5.auction...tion/e118440805 The Import Monster links are below if you want to have them deliver them to you or you could always buy via bidjdm.com http://www.importmon...title=V36%20GPB http://www.importmon...7.jpg&title=V36

Next week

Out of my own morbid curiosity, which oil do you use that does not have an additive package? Nulone engine oils are shite and I know not of their manual trans gear oils (use Redline)... but their 100% SATF is pretty impressive.

So will this be the 5.7L Tundra? I like the sound of the supercharged TRD Tundra.... over 2tons of beast running 13's. Fark! What do they/will they go for out of curiosity?

Being that there are a huge variety of transmission coolers, install is a custom job but not what you'd call difficult. A couple of heavy steel brackets, spring washers, nuts and bolts from Bunnings and you can make it up pretty easily. I won't disagree with you Dale. I went the Nulon because it is actually a very good synthetic (as opposed to their "synthetic" engine oils) fluid whereas the Matic J is a semi synthetic with additives. Nissan Australia also use an additional additive satchel with all RE5's sold here to reduce wear (all RE5's use Matic J) and can be requested when having the trans serviced by a decent Nissan dealership. IMO they should just put the Matic S in there and be done with it

5-speed auto? Nissan matic J or matic S (Matic S was the replacement for Matic J). Otherwise a quality transmission fluid that is compatible with Matic J or S. I personally used Nulon's 100% synthetic transmission fluid for 140,000kms in my Stagea. My trans was still operating perfectly after 230,000kms. Just make sure you get a transmission cooler on it!

Yes, I used 300v Chrono for more than 5 consecutive changes early on and then Sougi towards the end of my ownership for 4 changes (40,000kms). I don't have the pic on this pc, but when I took the valve cover off (~205,000km mark), it was clean as a whistle...

That SuperCooler is what I put on our 380. Very nice bit of kit, strong as hell and works very well (seemingly better than the PWR I had on the Stag).

May have had something to do with the quality of the second oil in the work car? I know that some of the oils that I have tried in the Magna (265000kms) have had very different results as to "usage". Most of these were the same weight as well. eg, Nulon "synthetic" 10w40 (dropped after 6000kms due to ticking) - 5L went in and only 3 1/4L came out. Valvoline Synpower "synthetic" 5w40 (full 10,000kms) - 5L went in and ~4.8L came out. Mobil 1 (5w50), Amsoil (10w40) and Motul 8100 (5w40) - 5L in and 5L out after 10,000kms. Do you mean that the sludge built up when using the first type of oil and then the detergents from the second type cleaned it all out which caused the engine to use more oil? I had my Stag for quite a while and tried a number of different oils (Amsoil, Shell, Mobil, Motul, Redline, Valvoline, RP, Penrite, Neo)... all different quality and very different detergents/additives. At the 220,000km service, all 5L of Sougi came out. Take from that what you will

If only they would show their personalities in the post-race interviews.

Yep, that red Mitsi is the Galant... basically a 380 with an ugly face, much like what the Yanks did with the "Pontiac GTO".

lol, they aren't falsely advertising. "Fully synthetic" has been deemed to be a minimum of 70% synthetic compounds. 100% synthetic is just that (which is why Nulon had to change their engine oil packaging). For reference, I enquired about Anglomoil's "Roadmaster 500" as I have heard good things about it in the past and it is around $55 per 5L tin (yes, a tin, like in days gone by). Here is their response to my questions if you can be bothered reading a wall of text; The Roadmaster 500 is a Group 3 based synthetic, I don't know of anyone making this type of oil from Group 5 base. Before the advent of Group 3 it was the norm to use a mixture of Group 4 and Group 5. The reason for this is that Group 4 is not a very good solvent for the additives and has limited seal swell characteristics. The Group 5 (Ester) was added at about 10% to enable the Group 4 to perform satisfactorily in these areas. This type of formulation was quite expensive to produce due to the cost of the base oils, the only product that comes to mind made this way is Mobil 1 due to Mobil being the worlds largest producer of Group 4 (Poly Alpha Olefin). The Group 3 base oil is a severely modified mineral oil with the same characteristics as Group 4 and has been determined that it can carry the title synthetic at a more economical price. This approach to most synthetic motor oils in the market is in the majority. There should be no problems with using E85 and Roadmaster 500. You can find a data sheet on our Web site www.anglomoil.com under Products, Petrol Engine Oils.

I liked the bit when he blamed a poor start on the team.