Ryno

My R32 Projectors definitely took the H1 globes and not H3. So I guess all R32 Projector headlights aren't the same. Have a look at the photo's in the first post, my headlights are exactly the same, so there's obviously a few running around with H1 globes. Of note, my Fog lights do take H3 bulbs.

No I didn't have to worry about that, as I've got an aftermarket plenum. (See attached Pic)

You're sort of on the right track, but you also have to consider Bernoulli's theorem, which roughly states that as velocity increases, pressure decreases. (this is the basis behind the lift equation in aircraft etc). The same works in reverse, so if the velocity of the exhaust gasses decreases (due to a sudden increase in pipe diameter) the pressure will increase and impede exhaust flow. The trick in making a perfect exhaust would be to have the pipe diameter increasing at the same rate as the exhaust is cooling, to keep the flow the same, and hence no pressure change. Just a thought, heat wrapping your 3 inch dump may be a "band aid" fix to the problem, as you would be retaining more heat in the exhaust, which would keep the flow faster in that section. But the Ideal solution would probably be a nice transition from the 3 inch output of your turbo, to a dump that matches the rest of your exhaust.

I run an 80mm throttle body and really like it as far as drivability goes. You probably don't quite have the same control at low throttle, but I wouldn't say it is on or off. It only took me a drive or two and it felt as natural as when driving with the stock one. What is cool, is that you will find it easier to blip the throttle when down shifting, as you don't need to stab as much of the throttle (with your heel) when compared to stock, to get the revs up. As for performance, there is probably very little gain, but I don't regret the purchase and wouldn't go back to the stock one.

The way you described what was happening seems ass about. If your car is going sideways on launch it will be spinning both wheels as neither have traction to keep the car straight. If your car is now going straight on launch, I'd say only one wheel is spinning, because the non spinning wheel is the one keeping you pointed down the road.

I doubt that would be the cause of your soft pedal. I went to a larger master cylinder, and it made the pedal firmer (not softer). If there are no leaks, the obvious thing would be to bleed or change the fluid and see if that fixes your problem.

Paul, Calling Bullshit is a bit strange? A larger core has to be somewhat of an improvement, as the core has more surface area. This extra surface area will take more heat from the air before it gets heat soaked (as there's more alloy to heat up). It's common knowledge that a front mount will be a much greater improvement, due to it's location and the extra core size. But if the larger size of the side-mount core didn't make a difference, why did Nissan progressively increase it's size over the years? Ryno

I did make 198 rwkw, when my car had the standard R33 turbo and R34 SMIC. So it is definitely an improvement over the standard R32 or R33 intercooler. The reason I stuck with a side mount initially, was because I didn't want the increased length of piping (and reduction in throttle response) when combined with the standard plenum. In the end I had to go for a front mount, but changed the plenum at the same time to minimise the piping.

No I didn't think to take a pic of it during daylight, sorry. As you can see in the second photo, the lens is tinted so when it is off (day or night) it just looks black. The trim is easy to fit, you just remove the door seal and carefully pry the old pillar trim away - it is held on by clips that just pull out.

Gauge is 50mm

You are correct in saying it is a Torsen centre, however it is the "Helical" type. The other two main types of Torsen centres are referred to as "Parallel Gear" and "Planetary". I'm not sure why everyone refers to the S15 Helical centre as helical and not Torsen, but that seems to be the case. The setup cost me $250, so I can't complain about the cost. As for performance, I couldn't be happier with it. My Skyline is my daily drive, so going with a mechanical centre or spool type (which may be better for the track) doesn't really suit the driving I do. All I can say is, it's a massive improvement over my old viscous LSD centre. It gives off no diff noise, and behaves just as awesome going in and out of the driveway every morning, as it does when giving it the berries in a fast sweeper.

I'm selling a Auto Gauge Boost Gauge to suit R32. This is the digital stepper motor design, where the boost sensor is located in the engine bay. Every time you turn the key on, it will calibrate itself to give you the most accurate reading. Comes already mounted in the standard R32 Pillar Trim, so you won't need to hack up yours. Item is located in Toowoomba QLD... $80

Decat pipe SOLD

PM Sent

Also have a decat pipe to suit R32/R33 $50 (was formerly a stainless magic cat, until the insides blocked up - it has the hole for the temp probe) S15 Tail shaft $20

Hey guys, I was just asked a question by a forum member on how to swap the S15 Helical diff into the R32, so I thought I'd post it on here to help anyone else out. A quick "Google" search will find plenty of articles explaining the benefits of the Helical diff centre. For me it seemed like the best choice, as the diff is awesome for street driving and does not wear out like viscous and clutch type LSD's tend to. The only down side to the diff is that it's not the best for drifting, and it can tend to open wheel if one wheel as zero traction (as the centre cannot detect any torque, so it doesn't know to transfer it to the other side)... Though I'm told that if you lightly apply the hand brake (when getting out of slippery spots) it should solve this problem and drive both wheels. I'd purchased a whole S15 diff, with the half shafts, so I was hoping I'd be able to swap the whole diff over and not have to pull them apart. Unfortunately it wasn't that straight forward. The S15 diff has the mounting holes is a slightly different position (due to the speed sensor at the front of the diff). In the attached photo's below the S15 diff is on the right. So I had to remove my diff and pull it apart to swap centres. My initial plan was to go with the 3.7:1 ratio from the S15, but after reading a few posts on here, I decided it would probably be too tall for what I was after. My diff was already 4.08:1, so it's taller than most. After the diff was removed, oil drained and pulled apart. I unbolted the crown wheel from the viscous centre and then bolted it onto the helical centre out of the S15. I then reassembled the diff. There are 3 shims that position the diff centre correctly (2 thin and one thick). As the crown wheel on the S15 diff is thicker than the R32 crown wheel, the thick shim had to be installed on the opposite side from when it was removed. It does seem quite tight to remove and reinstall them, but I had the correct amount of backlash when it was all done. You then tap in the S15 stub axles, and bolt back on the rear cover. You cannot use the 5 bolt stub axles (from the viscous diff) on the helical diff centre, as they are different lengths. I then reinstalled the diff onto the car, and bolted it up to the "6 Bolt" S15 half shafts. I did this all by myself (with a little help from the wife) last weekend. The hardest thing is getting the bolts undone that hold the crown wheel onto the diff centre. A good vice and a breaker bar did the trick (my rattle gun didn't have the power). There's a good tutorial on "R33 LSD shimming" in the DIY section, which explains how to remove the diff and crown wheel etc, and the rest you should be able to work out. (but if you have any dramas, just get in touch with me) In all, I'm very happy with the upgrade, so if you can find an S15 diff and half shafts for the right price, go for it. Ryno

What an awesome tutorial! I've had the same HID kid sitting on a shelf in garage for the last 2 years, but due to not being the direct plug in (as advertised) I wasn't prepared to take the risk in modifying the standard setup. Having a read of this made the install very easy... Love your work! It'll be a novel change to finally be able to see where I'm going at night.

Hope this helps... The top one is the drivers side (I marked it with electrical tape, so I wouldn't forget)

I've just changed my diff centre over to the S15 helical type, and I now have some parts left over: 3.69:1 Diff ratio. 48 tooth crown wheel with 13 tooth pinion. $100 Viscous R200 centre. $50 5 Bolt GTSt half shafts. $50 each Items are located in Toowoomba, QLD. But I'm happy to post. PM or call (0414792608)

Lucky you... How long before we will get to hear your results?

It's a shame you can't get it in steam pipe (like the 6Boost manifold). Any idea what the 3mm 321 S/S will sell for?

PM sent

Good advise. I've got a spare standard manifold lying round, so I may do some port matching, get it ceramic coated and leave it at that.

I wouldn't waste any money on the standard VLSD, and an aftermarket 2 way is usually a fair amount of coin, unless you find one second hand. A couple of better value options are: The R32 GTR diff. It's a mechanical (clutch type) that is a good upgrade, but you will need to find someone wrecking a GTR, because you will also need the half shafts and rear hubs (as they are a larger diameter, and your half shafts wont bolt up). The S15 Helical LSD, out of the manual turbo. It's a mechanical Helical centre, that has awesome reviews from everyone that uses one. As they are helical, they do not wear out like "clutch types" so it's a safer bet when buying second hand. They run 6 bolt half shafts, so you will need to get them as well to make it bolt up, but you won't need to replace the rear hubs (like when upgrading to the R32 GTR diff). I have just purchased an S15 rear diff (with half shafts) for $250, so it's a pretty cost effective upgrade. It also comes with a 3.7:1 ratio, so if you stick with that it will effectively make your gears all 10% taller. I'm going to try it with that, and see how it goes (as I find first gear too short in my car, and am also looking forward to saving some fuel by cruising at lower revs in 5th). But worst case, if I don't like it I can swap the crown wheel and pinion from my old diff back into it, and run the old 4.1:1 ratio.

Do you have the fuel flap? If so what is the colour & condition?