DaveB

Hi all, sorry for the delay updating this, everything has been collected now thanks!

Still hoping to give away Thursday; I'll let you know if they're still available after that.

PM'd.

Hi all, Having a shed clean-out and I have a box of various interior trim pieces, including I think grey and woodgrain (ie. few door window switches, switch covers, brackets, few other bits), as well as a set of four series 2 wheel centre caps. If anybody is interested, you can have them for the cost of postage from SA (estimated weight is 1kg, say 2kg to be safe, box approx. 40cm x 40cm x 30cm). Couple of photos attached. If anybody is interested in an RS-FOUR V centre display, I might put that up in a separate post. cheers David

FYI so long as you support the vehicle via the chassis (ie. on jack stands) and not the suspension (so that you get some suspension droop) it is not necessary to lower the subframe on the S2 stagea. I was standing next to the guy who removed mine and he did not lower the subframe (but he had a hoist, so there was that). It wasn't particularly easy to get at the accumulator but it was easier than on BNR32.

No that sounds about right. 7 years is how long it took my brand new unit to wear out. Although one other thing which can cause the symptoms is a low 12V circuit (bad battery/alternator/connections). But the accumulator is a high pressure gas canister with a moving seal, and they seem to become a bit leaky over time.

Interesting. I have another accumulator which didn't click tooo much if you'd like to try that. If it improves things, then it's probably the accumulator. Otherwise, I have another whole pump assembly just sitting in the shed...

Good news. It may be a new unit, however, is it actually charged? Only takes a few seconds to swap the old one back in to test.

No problem.

Of course there is always the possibility that the new accumulator is dead. How does it run with the old one back on, any better? I have a half-flat one if you'd like to test it. At least it would be better than what you're currently experiencing - if it's the accumulator.

Yes could be air in the system. Is the reservoir in the boot full? Also, there is a bleeding procedure; there's a wire with a jumper in it under the driver's side dash. You just take the jumper out and turn the ignition ON to run the pump constantly. You do this with each of the bleed nipples open, one at a time - be careful not to let the reservoir in the boot get too low. There is one bleed nipple at the front and one at the rear of the transfer case I think. It is listed here somewhere. Lots of fluid should come out when the pump is running. I find it actually takes a good 10-15 seconds to charge up the accumulator when you replace it too, so if the system is not running for more than a fraction of a second at a time something must be up. Failing all that, I have a complete ATTESA pump assembly (minus accumulator) sitting in my shed if you want it.

I replaced both, I was concerned about the wear around where the pulley bolts on. It looks as though it might not sit flat anymore.

Pulley is a bit worse for wear. Replaced it, and replaced the bracket. For reference, in case anybody has to do this in the future (I can't think why you would but...) the bracket can be removed without too much trouble. Need to unbolt the compressor from the bracket, then unbolt the bracket from the engine. Remove airbox and two top metal intake pipes for clearance, as well as remove power steering pump (lines can remain attached) and move out of the way a bit. Plenty of room.

Well, it might not be my compressor... The noise eventually got worse even with the AC turned off, and I found this: It chewed up the belt and I cut it off. Need a new bracket and pulley now. There is sparkly alloy dust all over the swaybar etc. Anybody know what could have caused this? The bearing still seems OK, oddly enough - spins freely and without noise or resistance.

Hi all, The AC compressor has begun making noise when it's working (clutch engaged), a bit like a diesel but quieter. I'm guessing that's not good? Anybody had this before? cheers DaveB

Sure. What I meant to say was, it doesn't look easy like 2 x the spark-measured value or something similar.

I compared both and I couldn't find any correlation. With the inductive pickup timing light, off this wire: ...I measured about 22 degrees: But with an older style timing light, that connects directly to the spark plug (it has a long spring which fitted into the coilpack), it read about 5 degrees!

Interesting to know thanks Duncan. Do you have any suggestion for why it might be changing when I tighten the CAS? I'm a bit worried that the CAS is reading UNDER, and therefore I might have more timing than there should be.

Well I tried timing from various points and comparing them to the #1 spark plug using an HT-driven timing light, and I can now say for sure that timing off the loop wires shows about 15 degrees more advance than using the #1 spark plug method. I took some pictures if people are interested but I hope this is enough. Some weirdness I noticed, has anybody ever seen this? With TPS unplugged (thanks owen1r) I loosened all 3 bolts on the CAS sensor, and then rotated until I observed the same timing with the light that the ECU was commanding (in this case 12 degrees). That was fine. But then I would notice that as soon as I tightened just one of the bolts to even finger tight, the timing would change back to like 5 degrees?! The CAS was definitely not rotating, and it would have to rotate a significant amount to make that much difference to the timing. Does anybody know what could be going on there? This is my second CAS too since I replaced it a while ago. thanks David

I have an old style timing light with a long spring on the pickup so I'll see if that works first...

I will be testing both out this afternoon.

Thanks guys. I don't have a spare HT lead unfortunately. Also the tuners I have been to have said they use a loop wire? I'm going to email one and ask but hopefully it will work...

Really? No I didn't, I'll give that a go thanks!

Hi all, How are people locking off their ignition advance to set base timing? I've got an inductive pickup timing light with the pickup clipped around the white wire loop at the start of the coil harness (it's at the back near the firewall), but the ECU is constantly varying the timing and it's very difficult to read. How have other people locked it at 15 degrees? I have tried Conzult's "idle setting" but that doesn't tell me what the timing is set to, and it doesn't seem to be constant. It just seems to adjust the idle speed. Cheers DaveB

Well, just finished replacing the valve seals and replacing all the belts. Pulling them all off and testing them one at a time I think is the way to go for me in the future. It's finally quiet! Water pump/alternator belt was the worst offender. Had to put a fair bit of tension on it. Can't quite play low E on it so hopefully it's not tooo tight.