BCMiller

More pics as requested.

Make: Nissan Model: Skyline GTST Milage: 92250 kms Transmission: Manual Colour: Black Location: Cheltenham Victoria Complied? Yes RWC supplied? Yes / No Currently registered? Yes 'till August Price: $11999 with RWC or $10000 without RWC Contact: Brendan 0403 55 77 32 or [email protected] Comments / Modifications: Momo steering wheel, Nismo gear shift, M-Type Body Kit, Chrome 17" wheels. I bought this car from a dealer about 18 months ago and have done very few modifications. Boost controller was added to improve lag, but still runs about 7psi only, as I never got around to installing an intercooler. My mechanic has told me it will require about $300 to make the car roadworthy, so if your after a bargain $10000 without the RWC. Selling because it's incredibly hard to get a baby seat (and baby) into the back seat! Images:

Thanks all. Yeah, I've got it booked in. And AVIS now love me. JustJap gauge should arrive today so I'll try that out tonight.

Do you mean that the oil pressure problems is due to a stuffed engine... or that I've stuffed the engine by driving around with low pressure? What do you think the problem might be?

Hi all, My S1 R33GTS-T may be having some oil pressure issues. On start up the gauge reads 6kg/cm2, and when the car warms up it generally reads about 4kg/cm2 at 3000rpm. This all seems reasonably healthy for 4100 turbolite oil AFAIK. The problem is that sometimes (randomly) the gauge will start reading 2kg/cm2 at 3000rpm, and will drop to 0.5kg/cm2 at idle. Then later it will return to normal.The engine doesn't seem to get any noisier, and if the gauge wasn't there, I wouldn't know there was an issue. The oil pressure light doesn't come on (although it does work on engine turn-over). I have ordered a sandwich-plate and OP gauge from JustJap, to check the gauge and sender. I was hoping someone else may have better insight on what might be going on. Should I be preparing for a new oil-pump? If so what's a new standard pump worth? :-) TIA PS- I searched, but no other threads were quite the same problem.

I think you mean a ring that bolts on between the boss and steering wheel? The HKB kit comes with a 'spade' lug (standard electrical connector) that press fits in-between the two. If you look closely at the boss you should see a perfect sized little cutout for it. Hope that helps!

A Nissan dealership should be able to get you a belt. It should be the same belt for all RB25DET (and probably RB25DE, RB20DE) If all else fails NENGUN sells the HKS belts: http://nengun.com Part no: 24999-AN001

Just fixed this problem myself the other day. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=150741 Heaps more on the topic too: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ite=fuel+sender Should take about 1.5 hours if your reasonably competent.

Well I tried taking some pics, but they didn't work out. :-( For anyone else looking for this topic the big white thing (sender) has a rectangular 'loop' section that sticks out. This loop is the bit that slides onto the bracket. The bracket is quite long and brassy in colour, as Dman666 said you can see the bracket just in front of the opening, and the sender unit just goes into the bracket and slides to the right. There is a definite click when it locks in.

Thanks heaps, Will try to take some pics while I'm there.

I'm about to crack open my fuel tank as I'm certain my fuel sender has fallen off it's bracket. Unfortunately it appears that most of the pictures in these forums have disappeared, so I was hoping someone could help me. Can anyone explain or post pics on how the sender attaches to the bracket, and where the bracket sits in relation to the tank opening? TIA

This is where I would start.. The problem sounds like one of three things to me: 1 - Altenator regulator is putting out too high voltage. 2 - Amplifier has fault and is incorrectly reading high voltage. 3 - You have wired something to an earth that goes 12V+ or vice-versa when the engine is running. The meter will quickly disqualify 2 of these possibilities.

Hey there, It appears as thou' most of the photo's relating to this topic are no longer here so I've taken a few (pretty average) photos to help. *Disclaimer - I am definitely not an expert in this, and only a chump would follow my instructions without someone else confirming this first! *Disclaimer 2 - I will assume that other noobs may read this, and start at the beginning. I am not insulting your intelligence. First, find the turbo wastegate (see photo) These pics show the 2 ends of the hose that I have used for my boost controller. Towards front end of car, beside air-box. Very hard to see, but here is the location of the hose coming off the wastegate. Follow the hose that is pictured until it meets a T piece. Remove all three hoses from the T piece and put away somewhere safe (or throw-away). Insert the boost controller into the two larger diameter hoses and secure (cable-ties or hose clamps) I also blocked off the smaller hose with a screw and some electrical tape, although I believe this is unnecessary. This smaller hose leads back to the original boost controller, which I just unplugged the electrical wiring. Now you can adjust the boost as per the instructions for your controller. I also believe that if you put the controller in backwards you won't damage anything. (But I could be wrong ) Anyone with any corrections, please let me know!

I would say thats quite a high current draw, but if it's causing your car to not start on a regular basis I would say your battery is shagged. I have a JVC HU and only drive my car once or twice a week, and it starts every time.

sweet! Thanks. I searched for a thread like this on this site for ages!