GD51LA

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About GD51LA

  • Rank
    OZTRIM
  • Birthday 09/30/1981

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  • Website URL
    http://oztrim.com.au
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    sydney

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    s3 r33 GTR

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  1. GD51LA

    6 blade pump (should be) n1
  2. GD51LA

    found one thanks anyway
  3. GD51LA

    sydney pref 040430188-
  4. no i didn’t do that there was no light on the dash you think that would have caused it like i said, the car always drove straight under power so putting it in RWD mode is a must? (btw i did see the front torque gauge go too max at times)
  5. long story short i blew my standard gear box, but the way it happened seems odd... first i went for a hub dyno tune in rear wheel drive, so i pull the transfer case shaft out, when on the dyno the lsd was fighting each other so much so that the car wouldn’t rev smoothly and reading allot less power than it should. i know this because out of the three pulls on the dyno one of them was smooth, first pull the diff was fighting itself and read 300kw, second pull the diff worked and read 500kw, third pull 300kw again... he checked the reading of each hub and the two sides were reading very different power figures?? the car always drove fine?? the tuner said the diff is no good, “this normaly happens when a diff is wearing out” one wheel gets more power than the other here are the reasons i don’t believe this too be true.... the diff had new gears and checked recently, the diff guy even said “i tightened it up abit” in other words it should be more “limo” than standard now, is there a way the active lsd works on the dyno? i rang one diff place and he said by you taking out the front shaft your confusing the active lsd pump "it sounds like an active lsd pressure problem, probably caused buy you removing the shaft" the guy that did the diff is pretty good at what he does, i don't think he got it wrong now i'm driving home in rear wheel drive (shaft still out) on low boost and i can feel the reving out pretty slow (it never did this in four wheel drive) so now the diff is fighting itself on the street too (for the first time) i give it a hit in second and the gear box breaks ( mind you the box held 1000hp before that) yet it breaks in rear wheel drive at 65% of that power what you think?
  6. i have a 1000hp balancer i will no longer be needing as i’m getting the ross kit with CAS perfect condition, 2000km old, new build first tune was two months ago balancer and the required water pump pulley (like the pic) asking $700 located in Marrickville sydney pic is from the internet, im still driving the car i’ll remove it when i get interest i’ll throw some pics of it on the cartomorrow call or sms me anytime 0404301881
  7. these are a great upgrade makes a 2.6 feel 2.8
  8. GD51LA

    water pump is n1 i just paid $380 for one [emoji30]
  9. need to diagnose an issue with my g4 weather or not it’s ecu related willing to pay $200 sydney pick is better
  10. GD51LA

    HPI-jap made 100mm and holding 1000horse i considered your options but like jap stuff for my jap car BTW it’s hybrid style fin configuration (google a pic and you’ll see what i mean by hybrid)
  11. wondering what’s needed too slow down the belt drives when reving way past the factory limit larger pulley on the alternator power steering is easy but what about the water pump when combined with the ATI balance as it requires a smaller water pump pulley too fit (obviously your spinning the hell out of the water pump with a smalller pulley) using an N1 6 blade pump may help, is. that enough?